Dry kits doo hit hard....
Good stuff.
I have a spin off of the 5177, I bought a big noid and use 1 of the nossles that come in the 5177 kit.
What do you think the max flow of one of those 5177 nossles is? any idea?
We just dynoed the car on Mon. and picked up 140hp and 200Tq on the 150 jet
tried the 200 jet but it was pulling a bunch of timing and it didnt pick up very much hp or tq.
Think the 3AN line or the crappy 90* turn is hurting the bigger shot?
BTW what does your car run?
I have a spin off of the 5177, I bought a big noid and use 1 of the nossles that come in the 5177 kit.
What do you think the max flow of one of those 5177 nossles is? any idea?
We just dynoed the car on Mon. and picked up 140hp and 200Tq on the 150 jet
tried the 200 jet but it was pulling a bunch of timing and it didnt pick up very much hp or tq.
Think the 3AN line or the crappy 90* turn is hurting the bigger shot?
BTW what does your car run?
Originally Posted by V6 Bird
What is your car running like right now with what you got?
Mike
Mike
ATVRacer, the 5177 noid itself is a .076 orifice and that is capable of flowing about 150/175hp. Now if you split your noids up each nozzle can do about 150hp. The limit single to dual nozzles is about 175hp at crank or 140rwhp. Hope this makes sense. Very versitile kit for the $$, look how easy to do dual stage. someone had posted the max that a 3an line could supply?
Originally Posted by Robert56
ATVRacer, the 5177 noid itself is a .076 orifice and that is capable of flowing about 150/175hp. Now if you split your noids up each nozzle can do about 150hp. The limit single to dual nozzles is about 175hp at crank or 140rwhp. Hope this makes sense. Very versitile kit for the $$, look how easy to do dual stage. someone had posted the max that a 3an line could supply?
I'm not using the 5177 noid anymore. I was thinkin the nossle itself is a restriction because of the skinny 90* bend in it.
I guess I need to get a Y block and hook up the other nossle
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Originally Posted by ATVracr
Good stuff.
I have a spin off of the 5177, I bought a big noid and use 1 of the nossles that come in the 5177 kit.
What do you think the max flow of one of those 5177 nossles is? any idea?
We just dynoed the car on Mon. and picked up 140hp and 200Tq on the 150 jet
tried the 200 jet but it was pulling a bunch of timing and it didnt pick up very much hp or tq.
Think the 3AN line or the crappy 90* turn is hurting the bigger shot?
BTW what does your car run?
I have a spin off of the 5177, I bought a big noid and use 1 of the nossles that come in the 5177 kit.
What do you think the max flow of one of those 5177 nossles is? any idea?
We just dynoed the car on Mon. and picked up 140hp and 200Tq on the 150 jet
tried the 200 jet but it was pulling a bunch of timing and it didnt pick up very much hp or tq.
Think the 3AN line or the crappy 90* turn is hurting the bigger shot?
BTW what does your car run?
Depending on your solenoid, you can only flow a stock NOS fan nozzle up to a .082 jet because that is the orfice size of the nozzle.
Ive got a .102 orfice on my noid and my nozzle itself has been flowed up to .120...Therefore my single nozzle will only flow up to the .102 because of the solenoid...
You can put 2 nozzles on this kit and run 2 solenoids at .102 or larger orfices....
You can run a rather large setup but mine single dry nozzle will run up to 300 hp pills unless i run a y off of my main line nad use 2 big solenoids with a nozzle at 300 each

Mike
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Originally Posted by ATVracr
I'm not using the 5177 noid anymore. I was thinkin the nossle itself is a restriction because of the skinny 90* bend in it.
I guess I need to get a Y block and hook up the other nossle

I guess I need to get a Y block and hook up the other nossle


Mike
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Originally Posted by Robert56
Well, other than going up in smoke (launch) ok. I put my hit back to single 100hp for now. I had a crappy 150mhz compaq that had window 95 updated to 98 and was a piece of crap, sold it $20 and bought a new one. So, I am starting basicaly at begining with tune. I want (if I can figure it, still might do wet second stage) to do a 75/100 1st stage and then a 100/125 2nd stage on a toggle switch. that way 2nd opitional is for drags and 1st will be on all the time, street. First 3000/3500rpm second 4500/4700, trying to minimize torque spike. I have the msd window and a msd rpm activation switch. It's in the works. Also looking at some British pulsenoids for progressive. I also have a HP (up to 100psi) booster fuel pump that I may regulate to spike the injectors per your set-up when second stage is activated?
ATVRacer, the 5177 noid itself is a .076 orifice and that is capable of flowing about 150/175hp. Now if you split your noids up each nozzle can do about 150hp. The limit single to dual nozzles is about 175hp at crank or 140rwhp. Hope this makes sense. Very versitile kit for the $$, look how easy to do dual stage. someone had posted the max that a 3an line could supply?
ATVRacer, the 5177 noid itself is a .076 orifice and that is capable of flowing about 150/175hp. Now if you split your noids up each nozzle can do about 150hp. The limit single to dual nozzles is about 175hp at crank or 140rwhp. Hope this makes sense. Very versitile kit for the $$, look how easy to do dual stage. someone had posted the max that a 3an line could supply?
Is yours a 6 speed car?
I personally have a -4 to -3 line off of my solenoid to the nozzle but its only about 14 inches....I know that class for the mustangs that use this style kit are spraying big shots on the -4 to -3 an lines....I know mine was flowed to make over 300 just with the single line..
With as short as the line is, it also will affect how the nitrous "hits"
Hope this helps...This is a learning curve for me although ive been with the dry kit for a long time. If i ever get a buitl bottom end in the car, i will most likely stay with my dry setup I have now instead of a fogger. Just to be different
Last edited by V6 Bird; Apr 14, 2005 at 09:31 AM.
I have the std NOS ls1 dry 5177 kit. Ive never been able to get it right, by that I mean the 125 jets can hardly be felt in 3rd 4th gear and weak in 1st 2nd. I know I have a few problems in the past like. I still have the tr55s gapped at 50 in there. I bought a set of tr6s now but havent installed them yet. (will be done this weekend) I changed my air box thinking that was the problem. I had the suncoast creations air box in there. I went back to the ram air base and mti lid no real change. I had the factory 26lbs injectors in it I just went to 28lbs last week and got it tuned by a friend (txhorns) he said it was running real lean NA so he took care of that. all though I didnt have any nitrous for him to tune it on the bottle he tuned it a little rich to be safe on the spray. ( I never had any codes come up while spraying) I havent run it since the tune or injectors. my car is a 99 ta m6 full bolt on kooks 1 3/4 headers 3in lanes duals granitelli mass mti billet t body ls6 intake etc. kit was installed as per inst. also added msd window switch with 3000 on pill 6000 off pill is there anything else I should do to make it work right or do you think after the plugs na tune it will a big diff? I do have a bottle heater but I dont have the wireing diag to wire it with the temp sen. nor do I have a pressure gauge yet. will get one comming though today. I live south of houston if anyone feels like taking a look at it. thanks ahead of time for the help
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Originally Posted by 1sweetta
I have the std NOS ls1 dry 5177 kit. Ive never been able to get it right, by that I mean the 125 jets can hardly be felt in 3rd 4th gear and weak in 1st 2nd. I know I have a few problems in the past like. I still have the tr55s gapped at 50 in there. I bought a set of tr6s now but havent installed them yet. (will be done this weekend) I changed my air box thinking that was the problem. I had the suncoast creations air box in there. I went back to the ram air base and mti lid no real change. I had the factory 26lbs injectors in it I just went to 28lbs last week and got it tuned by a friend (txhorns) he said it was running real lean NA so he took care of that. all though I didnt have any nitrous for him to tune it on the bottle he tuned it a little rich to be safe on the spray. ( I never had any codes come up while spraying) I havent run it since the tune or injectors. my car is a 99 ta m6 full bolt on kooks 1 3/4 headers 3in lanes duals granitelli mass mti billet t body ls6 intake etc. kit was installed as per inst. also added msd window switch with 3000 on pill 6000 off pill is there anything else I should do to make it work right or do you think after the plugs na tune it will a big diff? I do have a bottle heater but I dont have the wireing diag to wire it with the temp sen. nor do I have a pressure gauge yet. will get one comming though today. I live south of houston if anyone feels like taking a look at it. thanks ahead of time for the help
Just because he claims he tuned the car a little fatter doesnt mean jack unless he actually went to the parts of the MAF table where the load would be much higher then it would ever reach NA>...A Fat NA tune doesnt mean jack for a dry kit. Just telling you like it is. Once the load of NOS is read across the MAF you reference a totally different section of your cars tune.
The last but not least thing is....The kit will not work very well when you dont maintain proper bottle pressure. 900 is a little low and 1100 is a little much in most cases...I like to use 1050 as a launch point. Once you get these thing straightened out it will make more power then it is now. For sure!
Hope that helps you.
V6BIRD thanks for the help Ill get everthing together this week hopefully and get it on a dyno to work the tuning out next week I hope. any tips for tuning for a 140-150 dry shot? any changes to make to the kit? I would guess I should try 2-34 jets to hit the 150 mark?
Originally Posted by V6 Bird
Ill try to remember to take some when i get the 15 minute install cleaned up
Mike
Mike
If some one can correct me chime in.
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Originally Posted by GoldenVelvet
What year is your car? You mentioned that your kit is like a 5115 which is like a 5176, I went on to NOS's web site and looked them up. But (and Im not an f-body guy) I thought the F-body didn't have a motor mounted fuel pressure regulator. I thought it was moved to the gas tank.?! That's why Im wanting to see the pics.
If some one can correct me chime in.
If some one can correct me chime in.
Yes its the same as the Lt1 dry kit as well.. Pay attention to my first post and you would have already none the above was answered.

Mike
Originally Posted by V6 Bird
My car is a 2001 with custom rails and boost referenced 13101 reg from Aeromotive...I set this fuel system up for a future turbo application but right now im having too much fun with this NOS kit.
Yes its the same as the Lt1 dry kit as well.. Pay attention to my first post and you would have already none the above was answered.
Mike
Yes its the same as the Lt1 dry kit as well.. Pay attention to my first post and you would have already none the above was answered.

Mike
Come on Mike not everyone is as smart as you. Do you think we pay attention to what your saying, lol. j/k
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Originally Posted by Blue99Ws7
Come on Mike not everyone is as smart as you. Do you think we pay attention to what your saying, lol. j/k
Originally Posted by V6 Bird
no one said you had to be smart to comprehend 

either way you've comprehended, oh a great run by the way, talking bout the vid, hope my car takes off as smoother, I don't think i'll like looking at the sky
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Originally Posted by Blue99Ws7
either way you've comprehended, oh a great run by the way, talking bout the vid, hope my car takes off as smoother, I don't think i'll like looking at the sky

Made ~800 tq today on the dyno though
Originally Posted by V6 Bird
Im working on that tomorrow at dale...Adjust the sway bar a little bit and tighten up the fronts a few more clicks 
Made ~800 tq today on the dyno though

Made ~800 tq today on the dyno though


