okay, I've got a few questions about direct porting these sleds I'm putting in the TSP 233/239 cam, porting my heads and i'm going to add a second pump and do a DP say 200 shot. I'm looking for 10's out of her on the bottle.

First question... where should i drill the intake? does anyone have any good close up pics of a stock LS6 intake direct ported? is there any extra fab required or can the composite just be drilled and tapped carefully?


second question... kinda off topic, but how's the stock LS1 driveshaft hold up? i've got an MM6 w/ alum driveshaft, should i change it out now or is it "trustworthty"? i'm doubting it my self, i'll be leaving the line around 4k-4500 on the bottle and i'm not nice to her

 

nothing? anyone?

 

ttt for ya

 

don't know about the DP, but i'm gonna go with a big NO on the stock aluminum driveshaft holding up. seen TOO MANY twisted up on the starting line to recommend keeping it, haha.

 

I'm not sure if this is exactly what you're looking for but it might get you started.

some GOOGLE results for "Direct Port Nitrous".

I don't really know much about it, but thought this might answer at least some of your questions.

Matt

 

yeah, thats what i figured on the driveshaft too, as for HOW to do it, i know how everything goes i've been racing for a long time with the stuff, my main question is, can you tap the plastic manifold, or do you need to make some sort of a bracket or sleeve to hold it? i did this on my plastic lid, made a small plate and fitting to hold a nozzle for a dry shot. was wonderinf if i had to do the samething on the intake. seen a few pics on here but wanted maybe some close up/better shots. thanks

 

To install a direct port on a plastic intake, first drill and tap the holes for the nozzles. Then install the nozzles where you want them. Once you have them installed where you want them use some plastic epoxy (you can pickup at home depot) and make little bungs around the nozzles while they are installed. Let it dry for 3-4 days to make sure everything has enough time to cure, and your done.

 

b4 you drill make sure you have all your noid locations and dist blocks positioned to clear the injectors/rails and cowl. I used tape to hold mine on the intake to get the positioning. I drilled my intake higher up in the runner than most cause I wanted to be able to change the jets without trouble. Drilling and tapping is the easy part of it after you get your location strait. I measured up each runner and marked the location for the nozzle with white out.

Better get a stock steel d/s if you can't budget for a denny's driveshaft.

 

well, the deal is i'm workin In NJ right now, but my shop, and my car are in ohio, so i only get like 3 days at a time to go at her, so this trip up, i'm doin heads/cam and clutch. next time i go up, probably in a month or so, i'm going to do the 12 bolt, DDS, and if there's enough time, nitrous setup. another question, if i do the walbro 255 in tank, would it be enough to support 400 RWHP, and a 150 shot through the stock fuel rails/lines? i know it'd be best, and i'd feel safer as well, to run a second fuel system, but time is something i don't really have alot of to work on her. thanks everyone, and thanks in advance for any other info

 

my walbro gs340 made 470 rwhp. A dyno and fuel psi gauge will tell the truth.