Another DRY shot hits hard thread...(pic)
Originally Posted by B18B1LS1
That's exactly what is was worried about in your other thread.
"I understand everything except how you can still spray in front of the MAF. How is that not adding fuel as well? I have ran this type of system on my other cars, but they are all MAP sensor cars, not MAF."
I'm curious to see what your A/F will look like with only the extra fueling from the added fuel pressure. How much have you played around with the vacuum T-jet? Can you make major changes in the added fuel pressure or just very minor ones? Also, where are you running the vacuum from? I had a problem in the past with leaning out the cylinder closest to the vacuum port. All the nitrous that was passing through the regulator line was building up on that one cylinder along with the existing shot and hitting it harder than the rest. So I had to set it up differently from the way the kits were designed to begin with.
"I understand everything except how you can still spray in front of the MAF. How is that not adding fuel as well? I have ran this type of system on my other cars, but they are all MAP sensor cars, not MAF."
I'm curious to see what your A/F will look like with only the extra fueling from the added fuel pressure. How much have you played around with the vacuum T-jet? Can you make major changes in the added fuel pressure or just very minor ones? Also, where are you running the vacuum from? I had a problem in the past with leaning out the cylinder closest to the vacuum port. All the nitrous that was passing through the regulator line was building up on that one cylinder along with the existing shot and hitting it harder than the rest. So I had to set it up differently from the way the kits were designed to begin with.
Once I move the nozzle, i can measure EXACTLY what fuel pressure i want it to spike to by using a jet to bleed off vaccuum back into the intake. I get my vacuum from right behind the TB on the right side...But its not really even seeing any vaccuum but what passes back into the intake...The regulator sees the vaccuum from the nitrous discharge. Im wondering if you had yours setup wrong? The jet is what bleed of the pressure from the spiker and its supposed to go back into the line to your intake. I can regulate the pressure by changing shims in the spiker, and by using jets...I meant to clarify that a little bit.
Originally Posted by red90cobra
I do not believe it's running one vacumm! It has straight nitrous to the regulator, just like referencing boost. When he hits the n20 it hit the regulator hard. What's 1150 psi gonna reference to? lol max I think. It really depends on the base pressure and what it jumps to. If it reference 1:1 it'll max out the regulator I think. I'm sure Mike can explain more.
Mike
Originally Posted by V6 Bird
I dont intend on spraying much more then 250 on this stock bottom end.
Mike
Mike
MONEY 
Can someone talk Jeff into letting me spray mine with the 250 shot.
Originally Posted by ATVracr
MONEY Can someone talk Jeff into letting me spray mine with the 250 shot.
Once i get the tune squared away ill end up pilling it down...because the nitrous and fuel will be closer to what the pill numbers i was given....Its making 200 hp at the wheels now...With these pills most cars make 240 at the wheels...If i can keep the power curve flat so it doesnt drop off up top i should see some good mph too.
Its so weak because its pig *** rich. I was hoping for 109 or better honestly.
Mike
Originally Posted by GrannySShifting
Yeah yeah yeah, but 9s on the drag radials 150 shot would be pimp, and throwign another 100 on top of that would be pimpTASTIC. Agree?
Mike
Originally Posted by V6 Bird
I plan on running Drag Radials myself...I used to roll on 325-50's and ive been the same 60 fts on them leavin on the gas out the hole...Its fun!
Mike
Mike
Jeff says it will never hook off the Tbrake on the jug
Originally Posted by GrannySShifting
Yeah yeah yeah, but 9s on the drag radials 150 shot would be pimp, and throwign another 100 on top of that would be pimpTASTIC. Agree?
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Originally Posted by V6 Bird
Once I move the nozzle, i can measure EXACTLY what fuel pressure i want it to spike to by using a jet to bleed off vaccuum back into the intake. I get my vacuum from right behind the TB on the right side...But its not really even seeing any vaccuum but what passes back into the intake...The regulator sees the vaccuum from the nitrous discharge. Im wondering if you had yours setup wrong? The jet is what bleed of the pressure from the spiker and its supposed to go back into the line to your intake. I can regulate the pressure by changing shims in the spiker, and by using jets...I meant to clarify that a little bit.
Originally Posted by B18B1LS1
Mine is setup the same way. But, it's on a long individual runner log style intake. With this intake the vacuum port was directly above the #3 cylinder. All the nitrous that was being bled back through the jet was hitting #3 harder because of this. But with yours being at the front of the intake I can see why there is no problems, it distributes good enough. I forgot also that your setup doesn't use vaccum for fueling, hence the MAF. Your using the boost regulator purely for nitrous fueling enrichment. With mine it does vacuum, so the regulator is running double duty, NA fueling was vacuum dependant and nitrous was pressure dependant. I ended up setting the regulator at a happy medium for NA and did away with any vacuum referencing. Then I ran the return bleed line back into the intake well above the throttle body. As far as controling the pressure spike my jets are pretty limited, so I just added more nitrous until I was happy with the mixture. I did notice that different regulators have different spring pressures apparently. With my old regulator and a .042 "bleeder" jet I ran nearly 80 psi at 1100 psi, but with my Paxton and the same jet it resulted in only ~65 psi. I'm guessing an actual boost referenced regulator has the same internal concept as a vacuum referenced one, just built a little different. Anyway, good stuff, keep us posted on all the results.
Depending on how your regualtor references boost depends on hwo much fuel pressure you will see...Mine is a 1:1 reference.for every 1 lb of vaccum I got 1 psi more of fp...Im spraying through the MAF which will soon change and ill be able to tune more effieciently with jetting and shims to get the amount of fuel that i want. Its really very precise if its setup right.
Mike
I was thinking about using a similair setup on "another car" after we get Waynes done (hes on stock rails, feed line, returnless 99 setup)
Can you jet it down so it only bumps the fuel pressure up a few psi, basically just a tiny bit of enrichment, or is it always putting a decent amount of pressure on the reg? Was thinking 97 Vette style rail mate to stock return feed lines, 60# mototrons, and maybe an adjustable regulator (found one that fits stock rail looks like) with vacuum ref regulator. 60#s idle good in stock returnless setup with vacuum line on it at idle out to idle like a dream at say 50 psi, and on full tilt at 65-75 psi the Motos have fed mid 800 rwhp
after we get Waynes done (hes on stock rails, feed line, returnless 99 setup)Can you jet it down so it only bumps the fuel pressure up a few psi, basically just a tiny bit of enrichment, or is it always putting a decent amount of pressure on the reg? Was thinking 97 Vette style rail mate to stock return feed lines, 60# mototrons, and maybe an adjustable regulator (found one that fits stock rail looks like) with vacuum ref regulator. 60#s idle good in stock returnless setup with vacuum line on it at idle out to idle like a dream at say 50 psi, and on full tilt at 65-75 psi the Motos have fed mid 800 rwhp
Originally Posted by V6 Bird
No nitrous gets bleed through the jet homie..maybe thats why you were leaning it out! If its setup correctly at the exit of the solenoid you will have a male to male to female T....The male sides plug into the solenoid and the spiker on the other side...The female side is in the middle and that goes to your nozzle. The spiker sends vacuum only based on shims and the spring...Nitrous does not pass through it or else the line would blew completely in half at 1050psi or better...Vaccuum lines arent made to hold that
Mike
Mike
Last edited by B18B1LS1; Apr 20, 2005 at 10:47 PM.
Yea, a lot of dry bashing on this site and others, by people that don't understand or have the knowledge base to tune for the bigger dry. Also claiming wet hits harder (it only seems to hit harder because of the massive lean spike created by the n2o getting to cyl first, not good) and wet is safer (that is the biggest fallacy of them all, totally untrue). I just about got my dual dry done for testing today (couple more days) 100hp 1st stage 100hp 2nd stage, with first gear lock out on 2nd stage. 1st at 3400rpm and at 4700rpm and eventually both off at 6500rpm. Now I have some testing/tuning to do before online at these levels. DR will be coming and we'll see what I can do. Dry Rules and hits like a **** when set-up correctly.
they both work for me. I've have both in the past. The dry just is a little more work to get it right with bigger shots. people like me want the easy way out. I like wet kits but i'll do a dry doesn't matter. it's whatever is convenient at the time/money allows.
Originally Posted by B18B1LS1
Interesting. So the nitrous shot passing by/through the spiker creates vacuum, then its sent to your regulator? I had no idea vacuum was created that way. It sounds like our kits are different. Nitrous definately passes through those lines on mine. It's not 1000+ psi worth, but it is definately some amount of nitrous nonetheless. It all sounds like the same stuff setup total opposite. My regulator increases fuel pressure based on positive pressure created directly by a percentage of the nitrous, whereas yours does it with a vacuum source? Hopefully you can put some pics up soon.
Mike