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Dual Stage Window Switch Progressive IN!!!

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Old Apr 19, 2005 | 04:49 PM
  #21  
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so how would this setup with driver compare to the maximizer?
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Old Apr 19, 2005 | 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Robert56
Another way to do first lock out is, use a micro wot switch mounted under shifter so that it's dedicated to 2nd stage. That way 2nd cannot engage until shifting out of first, then the rest acts as normal. I may have some pics of this installed but will have to wait till later as I am working on my wiring nightmare now. Hope this helps a bit. Someone can draw up a schematic also.
I understand what you mean by mounting a micro wot switch on the shifter, so when you are in 1st it is depressing the swtich. But how would you wire that into the rest of the new NX setup? From what it looks like, NX is not using a regular micro wot switch, they are plugging a connector right into the TPS and looking for voltage. So how does the 2nd gear lockout swtich wire in?

BUT, you would have to have a "reverse" window switch right? One that grounds only when the lever is not depressed (taken out of 1st). That way you could wire it in where Ricky said to use a button for 2nd stage? Would that work?
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Old Apr 19, 2005 | 07:03 PM
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Will just the progressive driver work with a NX kit that I have...MAF kit, two solenoids (plus purge), TPAS for activation, single stage, timing Tuner to act as rpm window switch AND global tiing retard....I would love to add a proressive controller for less than the cost of a Maximier

SDB
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Old Apr 19, 2005 | 09:21 PM
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whats the part number?
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Old Apr 19, 2005 | 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Y2K2LS1
I understand what you mean by mounting a micro wot switch on the shifter, so when you are in 1st it is depressing the swtich. But how would you wire that into the rest of the new NX setup? From what it looks like, NX is not using a regular micro wot switch, they are plugging a connector right into the TPS and looking for voltage. So how does the 2nd gear lockout swtich wire in?

BUT, you would have to have a "reverse" window switch right? One that grounds only when the lever is not depressed (taken out of 1st). That way you could wire it in where Ricky said to use a button for 2nd stage? Would that work?
Ok basically you set-up your dual stage as normal, Then choose the ground or hot (which ever you decide)on 2nd stage and run thru your shift ms to break the noids from operating until you shift out of first. I have a micro switch that has 3 terminals on it so I can go normal or reverse (can get them at any elect supply house). Hpe this gets you in the right direction. I haven't seen the wire diagram for the FJO but some of the guys have already used it and probably can give a specific drawing. Hope this helps you get started.
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Old Apr 20, 2005 | 09:29 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Magic Chicken
so how would this setup with driver compare to the maximizer?
The driver is the same one the maximizer uses.

Originally Posted by Y2K2LS1
I understand what you mean by mounting a micro wot switch on the shifter, so when you are in 1st it is depressing the swtich. But how would you wire that into the rest of the new NX setup? From what it looks like, NX is not using a regular micro wot switch, they are plugging a connector right into the TPS and looking for voltage. So how does the 2nd gear lockout swtich wire in?

BUT, you would have to have a "reverse" window switch right? One that grounds only when the lever is not depressed (taken out of 1st). That way you could wire it in where Ricky said to use a button for 2nd stage? Would that work?
You could use the wire going to the relay to install a switch to control the second stage. Think of you switches as in line fuses. Just install them into the wire that is controlling what you want to controll. Reminder always on the low amp side of things.

No reversing need see above.


Originally Posted by SDB
Will just the progressive driver work with a NX kit that I have...MAF kit, two solenoids (plus purge), TPAS for activation, single stage, timing Tuner to act as rpm window switch AND global tiing retard....I would love to add a proressive controller for less than the cost of a Maximier
SDB
The driver has to have a controll box. So by itself it is just a high amp load device. So you would need both boxes.


Originally Posted by rons 00z
whats the part number?
Part numbers and pricing as follows. fjoknd0020 Solenoid driver 98.25 retail
fjokws0020 dual window switch 179.75 retial.

These prices are good for now. We have work really hard to keep these parts at an affordable level that can be done in stages.


If need be I can have different drawings created to show how to hook the unit up, to make it do the 1st gear lock out, or delay second stage, or use the second stage window switch to controll some thing else. We will cross that bridge on a person by person basis.

Ricky

Last edited by NXRICKY; Apr 20, 2005 at 09:43 AM.
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Old Apr 21, 2005 | 08:01 AM
  #27  
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I'm sure that I will be able to figure it out when the time comes and I have the parts in my hands. I'll be ordering one soon.

Just one more question for now, the system does not make use of a regular mechanical wot switch right? It uses an electrical connection and picks up TPS voltage?
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Old Apr 21, 2005 | 10:41 AM
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That is correct it has a tps inside the box. If you were using this on a carb. vehicle then you would just use your wot switch.
Ricky
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Old Apr 21, 2005 | 06:38 PM
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Almost done with the install on our RX 408. Tommorrow I hope to have some dyno graphs and a full spread of pics on the install using this controller, Nitro Daves all in one baddass stand alone fuel system and the NX EFI 800001 direct port. It has a small dry shot for the first stage. The system seems to work just fine. Now to run it with nitrous in it.

This set is about as easy as it gets in hookup and wiring. Excellent instructions and no fancy shmancy wiring. Its simple because all the hard stuff is done Via the controller internally. Just a few wires here and there and your ready to rock and roll.
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