Window switch ON/OFF points for A4
Window switch ON/OFF points for A4 I just want to make sure I'm setting it for the right rpms, don't wanna spray through shifts,
I am setting it for ON @ 3100 rpms and off @ 6000rpms,
pat
I am setting it for ON @ 3100 rpms and off @ 6000rpms,
pat
I tried that. If your shift points are 6,000rpm and the off is at 5,900rpm you will probrably feel the car spraying into the shift alittle. You can try it though, probrably wouldn't be to bad with a 100 shot.
If you would like. I think the stock limiter is set at 6100-6150 or so. I tapped the stock limiter pretty good in the burnout box and bent acouple of push rods so if you might want to look into hardend ones if you want to start upping your shift points. For what it's worth, when I started uping the shift points with the stock cam and 1.8 rockers my times started slipping. Went as high as 6,400 but, every car is different of course.
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Verdad Gallardo Spraying through is a very conserversal (sp?) topic around hear. While you can hurt the motor getting in and out of it real quick on the bottle, I have yet to see a motor hurt from not spraying through. While not spraying through can cost you a tenth or so it will help save your transmission. Many people have had no problems spraying through but I personally started loosing my 2-3 shift after a day of running while spraying through. Way I see it is if you want to help prolong the life of your stock tranny don't spray through, if you want to take a gamble, spray through and shut off just before the limiter. 
Last edited by GM Muscle; Apr 20, 2005 at 09:14 PM. Reason: Holy Shit, my grammar sucks!
I just ran at the track N/A and on nitrous,
N/A I ran a 13.15@107.2mph,
and on the 100 shot I ran a 12.7 @ 115mph, window switch set at 3000 to 5800rpm, it hit really hard and spun,
so next time I set it at 3900 and I ran a 12.6 @ 115mph, still spun and hit pretty hard when it came on, so I couldn't get it to go higher than 115 mph, even though it's gone 118mph before with the window switch set at 4000 to 6200rpms (shop did that)
this was on street tires, 255/40/18 Michelins at 30 psi, trying no to run slicks and blow my rear end.
pat
N/A I ran a 13.15@107.2mph,
and on the 100 shot I ran a 12.7 @ 115mph, window switch set at 3000 to 5800rpm, it hit really hard and spun,
so next time I set it at 3900 and I ran a 12.6 @ 115mph, still spun and hit pretty hard when it came on, so I couldn't get it to go higher than 115 mph, even though it's gone 118mph before with the window switch set at 4000 to 6200rpms (shop did that)
this was on street tires, 255/40/18 Michelins at 30 psi, trying no to run slicks and blow my rear end.
pat
You should be able to get away with some drag radials on the stock rear without any problems. Did you try manually turning on the system at the top of the 60' instead of using the window switch as a delay?
10 second playa
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,225
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by GM Muscle
Spraying through is a very conserversal (sp?) topic around hear. While you can hurt the motor getting in and out of it real quick on the bottle, I have yet to see a motor hurt from not spraying through. While not spraying through can cost you a tenth or so it will help save your transmission. Many people have had no problems spraying through but I personally started loosing my 2-3 shift after a day of running while spraying through. Way I see it is if you want to help prolong the life of your stock tranny don't spray through, if you want to take a gamble, spray through and shut off just before the limiter.
to run a number, not bracket race.
N2O is volitle enough. You shouldn't be running N2O if you are worried about breaking parts and wearing things out? Just run N/A then?
JMHO
Originally Posted by Anonymous
I know what you are saying, but lets face it you are running N2O,
to run a number, not bracket race.
N2O is volitle enough. You shouldn't be running N2O if you are worried about breaking parts and wearing things out? Just run N/A then?
JMHO
to run a number, not bracket race.
N2O is volitle enough. You shouldn't be running N2O if you are worried about breaking parts and wearing things out? Just run N/A then?
JMHO
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 736
Likes: 0
From: Chattanooga,TN
Originally Posted by GM Muscle
Well, if that where the case why bother with any saftey features at all. Might as well spray so hard that you lift the heads every other pass, but who cares when your going after a number. I know exactly what your trying to say but some of us like a fast and reliable dailey driver that's not a complete money pit. I've put atleast 15lbs of nitrous through my car every week for over 3 season without any issues at all other than my 2-3 shift started fading this past fall. It's pretty reliable for a low budget 11.0 daily driver and I'm positive that if I didn't go to the lengths I do to keep the car running it would be on jack stands every week with broken parts. If I really wanted to I could probrably get a 10.80 out of the car with it's current set up no sweat, but to me, it's just not worth pushing all my parts to the point of destruction.
Do you launch yours on the spray?
I try not to. Every now and then I'll hit it just as the car comes out of the hole, other wise I usually have the window switch set at about 3,800-4,000rpm so there is a good delay. My main concern is my converter, it's built for an N/A set up and it doesn't have a hardened sprag. I usually stall the car up to about 3,200rpm if track prep is half decent.
This season I'm going to hit it with a dry 50 out of the hole then spray the TNT 150 on top of that about 20' out or so.
This season I'm going to hit it with a dry 50 out of the hole then spray the TNT 150 on top of that about 20' out or so.
