SStroked 410

I havent seen too many guys with n20 LS1's using a boost a pump, is there a reason? It seems to work great for the 03 KB Cobras and FI LS1's.

It looks like it would be a lot easier to install since it just taps into your existing fuel pump wiring. No hassle of a fuel cell or dual intank fuel pumps. If there isnt anything bad about running one of these then I am going to try it out and only spray a 150-200 wet shot.
Heres a link to some more info
http://www.kennebell.net/accessories...boostapump.htm

Anyone know the limit of these with 42lb injectors, high flow fuel rails and walbro 340 intank? I am going to sell my fuel cell most likely. I heard there s/c and turbo ls1's using these with one intank fuel pump making 650-750rwhp. So I would think it wouldnt be a problem with my set up?

ITSTOCK

iTrader: (1)

I believe it might be because LS1's come with a smaller fuel pump. My car is makely just shy of 700rwhp on STOCK fuel pump with a BAP and 60# injectors.

I am confident that an LS1 would need a much bigger pump out of the gate than the stock pump to support those kinds of power levels.

With a 340 intank, 700 shouldn't be a problem, especially with the BAP.

BUT, FWIW, I have seen a 255 with a BAP support 750rwhp on a 300shot, with 42# injectors.

slow

iTrader: (7)

you can put dual intake pumps or just a walbro 255 hotwired and make decent power.

the KB cobras use the stock pumps, which are an electronic returnless system, and it is easier to install a boost a pump, than the other options.

Ryan

Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet

iTrader: (25)

I feel that a booster pump is a patch job.I have had applications in the shop where the booster pump was pulling more fuel than the stock pump could let flow through it.This created a cavitating problem.If it was ran this way eventually both pumps would have burned up.
I know people do it and Im not sayingf it can not be done but I will not install a booster pump as the main safety of fuel delivery on any of our customers cars.
I have seen to many cars that it did not work on.
Dave

slow

iTrader: (7)

The boost a pump they're talking about is a voltage amplifier, using the stock pump and raising the voltage.

Ryan

SDB

iTrader: (7)

I have a walboro intank and a boost a pump...I found that I didn't need the boost-a-pump at all...I set it to zero now...when my new combo is done, I may need it then.

XKnightRider

iTrader: (10)

**post ressurection**

So anyone using a BAP for N20 application? If so how did you wire it in? To the WOT circuit?

Ms Eliz

iTrader: (2)

Good question! Can you link the BAP activation into the window switch via a relay? My concern is I want to set a KB BAP "****" to the amplification needed for proper AFR while spraying a wet kit, (second stage) and then have it activate automatically. Anybody else done this?
Seems to be a mysterious topic when using a BAP with N2O...
Expert advise welcomed!
Ms Eliz

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

I chose to go with a dedicated Bosch in-line pump. It has it's own ½" supply line, so no problem like Dave said about having one pump pull thru another. On the Racetronics site, they state that a Racetronics pump and hot wire with a return and reg at the rails is good for about 600rwhp and add a BAP to this and 700rwhp is attainable. I believe my set up, and i do have a reg and return at the rail, will easily support 700/800rwhp. I have the aux pump wired to activate when armed along with N2O and on it's own window rpm activation SW. watch my web site for a full how-to write up that i hope to get on there this weekend. I could put a BAP on either pump and extend the HP even further. My buddy is running his stock Z06 Walbro pump with a BAP and currently is putting 665rwhp down, but it is a TTi X.
Robert

Ms Eliz

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Robert!
My 03 Z06 has the returnless system and I'm wanting to run the KB BAP from my racetronix wiring harness but I'm not sure how and when to activate it. Since I'm running a dual stage wet kit through Dave's 78mm plate I think I only need the BAP to kick in on the second stage... Currently the first stage is a 100 shot (good pressure and AFR) and I want to add a second stage of 75 for a total of 175 and I don't think my stock pump is going to keep up. I haven't bought the KB BAP yet but I was thinking I could use the window switch to activate the BAP along with the sencond stage???? What are your thoughts or other solutions? Oh yes, my 100 shot puts down 505RWHP and is tuned very rich...

TARZAN

iTrader: (12)

If it were me doing it, and it were a wet system, I'd go with a hotwired 255 intank for the motor, and a dedicated fuel system for the nitrous. If I were going big dry, I'd upgrade to the dual intank 255's and run healthier line....never been a big fan of the BAP's, the idea of running something that much harder that you're supposed to for extended amounts of time just seems like a bad idea

-Will

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Yes, you could trigger the BAP with your 2nd stage. Mine is on a dedicated WS cause of 3 stages and having the regulator and extra line capacity that i can have it come on with 1st stage and stay on through out run no matter how many stgs i chose.
Robert

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

I don't like the dual in tanks personaly cause they will heat your fuel up running all the time. Though there is a mod that you can run just one until the 2nd pump is needed, like wired to a ws and n2o activation only. It's a little tricky but doable for some. I like the dedicated fuel system over the stand alone, esp for the dry hits, no more watered down race fuel as all comes from the same tank. BAPs can work great, a bud has his stock vette walbro supporting 665rwhp on his TTiX set up. You just don't want the BAP running all the time.
Robert

TARZAN

iTrader: (12)

THIS is the big thing....I've seen many installed, and I guess many people out there don't know how to install. They are commonly wired up to run constantly.....and that burns stuff up quick

-Will

Braciole

iTrader: (6)

Whats the best solution? Good in tank pump and a boosta pump when sprayin?
Thanks Mike