Timing Retard?
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From: Sandusky, Ohio
Timing Retard? Hey guys,
I'm new to nitrous, I have an '02 WS6, M6. I will be running an NOS 150 shot, with WOT relay. Since I'm running a 150 shot, I think I have to have the timing retarded correct? Is there a box or something that will retard it on the spot?
So my question is that what other "saftey" device do I need to run a 150, including fuel management and any fuel upgrades. I think I can run the stock injectors and pump with a 150 shot correct?
I did read the FAQ thread along with a lot of other threads. Some of the things are abbreviated so I didn't know what the person meant
thanks guys!
-matt
I'm new to nitrous, I have an '02 WS6, M6. I will be running an NOS 150 shot, with WOT relay. Since I'm running a 150 shot, I think I have to have the timing retarded correct? Is there a box or something that will retard it on the spot?
So my question is that what other "saftey" device do I need to run a 150, including fuel management and any fuel upgrades. I think I can run the stock injectors and pump with a 150 shot correct?
I did read the FAQ thread along with a lot of other threads. Some of the things are abbreviated so I didn't know what the person meant
thanks guys!
-matt
This is the only "timing retard on demand" box out right now. It has almost all the saftey features you would want built in, such as the timing retard, window switch, and activation delay. http://www.ramchargers.com/cgi-bin/n...541&cat1=26891
As for fuel, you can get by on the stock pump if you are running a wet kit. If it is a dry kit, I'd upgrade to a racetronix PnP kit. http://www.racetronix.com/RX-F99-FPKG-2.html
As for fuel, you can get by on the stock pump if you are running a wet kit. If it is a dry kit, I'd upgrade to a racetronix PnP kit. http://www.racetronix.com/RX-F99-FPKG-2.html
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i'll be running a wet system.
would you recommend the timing retard on demand? I had someone tell me that the ls1 if it senses it going lean, it will jump down to the low octane map, which changes 5 degrees of timing. So do I really need this if i'm running a 150?
activation delay is for using it off the line correct? I wont be spraying off the line, since I'd like to keep my 10 bolt for as long as I can lol.
thanks guys!
would you recommend the timing retard on demand? I had someone tell me that the ls1 if it senses it going lean, it will jump down to the low octane map, which changes 5 degrees of timing. So do I really need this if i'm running a 150?
activation delay is for using it off the line correct? I wont be spraying off the line, since I'd like to keep my 10 bolt for as long as I can lol.
thanks guys!
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From: Sandusky, Ohio
With this 150 shot, should I consider subframe connectors to help stiffen up the chassis....i wont be racing very much though. What sponsors have them? I glance through but didn't seen anything. What should I expect to pay?
Also will I need a clutch upgrade from the stock? What is generally recommended around here? Price?
Also will I need a clutch upgrade from the stock? What is generally recommended around here? Price?
I've seen people spray a 150 without the timing retard, but i wouldn't reccomend it. I'd take out atleast 2 degrees with factory timing. With a six speed, your gunna want the window switch option that is in this box. It turns the nitrous on and off at a set rpm so you don't under or over rev. You don't want to bog and have fuel puddle which will equal a backfire, and you don't want to miss a shift on the spray either. The window switch will pretty much releive you from those things happening. The computer going lean on it's on is usaully the way the dry system works. It sprays before the Mass air meter. The meter senses the cold and adds fuel and retards timing. Subframes are reccomended on all F-bodies. The clutch just depends on the shape of yours. I reccomend Hotchkis Subframes and SPEC or RAM clutches. I don't see the need for a 3 gauge pillar. Maybe a 2 with a fuel pressure and Air/fuel gauge. If you wanted a 3rd gauge, you could get a nitrous pressure gauge. The subframes are about $175 + nstallation and the clutch should be about $400. Keep your eye out in the group sponsor section. The have great deals in there all the time.
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From: Sandusky, Ohio
Originally Posted by Beast96Z
I've seen people spray a 150 without the timing retard, but i wouldn't reccomend it. I'd take out atleast 2 degrees with factory timing. With a six speed, your gunna want the window switch option that is in this box. It turns the nitrous on and off at a set rpm so you don't under or over rev. You don't want to bog and have fuel puddle which will equal a backfire, and you don't want to miss a shift on the spray either. The window switch will pretty much releive you from those things happening. The computer going lean on it's on is usaully the way the dry system works. It sprays before the Mass air meter. The meter senses the cold and adds fuel and retards timing. Subframes are reccomended on all F-bodies. The clutch just depends on the shape of yours. I reccomend Hotchkis Subframes and SPEC or RAM clutches. I don't see the need for a 3 gauge pillar. Maybe a 2 with a fuel pressure and Air/fuel gauge. If you wanted a 3rd gauge, you could get a nitrous pressure gauge. The subframes are about $175 + nstallation and the clutch should be about $400. Keep your eye out in the group sponsor section. The have great deals in there all the time.
I only have 20k on my car so the clutch should hold out for awhile.
thanks!
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I would plan on buying the box or some way of retarding timing. I can never seem to run more than 24-26* with a 150 shot. 24* is safe for my car but at 26* I get some random KR. I would highly reccomend the fuel pump for a 150 shot. Some people get away with the stocker but for the $110-250 and 4 hours of your time it's almost a no brainer not to do it. You will want a window switch as mentioned above, that Ramcharges timing tuner may have one built in but I'm not positive. Also, the FPSS you mentioned in the other thread is a good idea but as you saw, some of us have had them go bad. Depending on which kits your looking at, it may come with it. Bottle pressure is easy to monitor, if the gauge on the bottle is visible from the drivers seat. But if your bottle is hidden you'll want a remote gauge. Electronic ones are about $150-175.
As far as subframe connectors, they are a good idea but if you plan to go to the track alot I think that you'll find that your going to need a bigger rear sway bar or bag for the right rear more than anything. Your torque arm will probrably take a beating with the M6 too. It all depends on how well the car hooks.
As far as subframe connectors, they are a good idea but if you plan to go to the track alot I think that you'll find that your going to need a bigger rear sway bar or bag for the right rear more than anything. Your torque arm will probrably take a beating with the M6 too. It all depends on how well the car hooks.
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From: Beaumont, TX
Originally Posted by MetallicaMatt
Some of the things are abbreviated so I didn't know what the person meant
A WOT switch and a window switch are 2 diffrent things. The WOT switch just activates the nitrous when you car goes full throttle. The window switch is a box that allows for a set window of operation. With a window switch, your WOT switch comes on, but the Nitrous system will not activate until the window switch tells it to. When it operates is pre-determined by you by dialing in the switches to the desired RPM. Most people will have the No2 come on at 3000 rpm's and cut off 100 rpm's before the revlimiter. What if you launch at full throttle, but your car bogs down? This means your WOT switch will be activated at a bogged down RPM which will almost always end in a horrible back fire. If your Window switch is set for 3k, then you wouldn't have this problem. As for pressure, bottle pressure and nitrous pressure are the same thing. You just keep your eye on the pressure gauge before the run to make sure you have enough to make a pass. You wouldn't want to spray on a 500lb bottle.
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so how many options do I have for a window switch? It seems like a must have, so whats the best buy?
My bottle will be in the back of the car so I wont beable to monitor the bottle pressure easily. Should I consider getting the 3 pillar with a bottle pressure monitor?
What about an FPSS? Should I get one if I'm running wet?
I guess now I'm starting to get confused as to everything that I really should HAVE to make everything safe.
thanks guys!
My bottle will be in the back of the car so I wont beable to monitor the bottle pressure easily. Should I consider getting the 3 pillar with a bottle pressure monitor?
What about an FPSS? Should I get one if I'm running wet?
I guess now I'm starting to get confused as to everything that I really should HAVE to make everything safe.
thanks guys!
As of late there aren't many options for window switchs. MSD makes both a digital version and one that takes pills, and BMN makes a nice unit that has a 1st gear lockout which is great for a 6 speed. What to do about gauges is up to you. You can get a pillar pod if you want and go with a traditional style gauge or, Dynotune makes a digital one that is the size of a key fob, it can be mounted almost anywhere. The FPSS is a great idea but it's up to you if you ant to run one. Don't forget that you'll have to swap to a colder plug like the NGK TR-6 too.
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that BMN one sounds nice. GM Muscle, you've told me the one that you bought. So I've heard of 4 different companies. Which one should I go with?
I'll probably go with the Pillars, so I'll want to monitor A/F and fuel pressure, and maybe bottle pressure.
I'll probably go with the Pillars, so I'll want to monitor A/F and fuel pressure, and maybe bottle pressure.
That's why I reccomended the timing tuner. It is a higher initial cost, but it has everything in one box and is super easy to plug in. No wiring strung out every where. You get almost everything you need in one simple box. Your basically building the same set-up I am and I'm going with:
1. The timing tuner.
2. A NX TPS switch instead of a WOT switch.(optional)
3. A dynotune A/F saftey switch instead of the FPSS. If your O2's go lean, it shuts the system down. Seems to be alot more reliable than the FPSS.
1. The timing tuner.
2. A NX TPS switch instead of a WOT switch.(optional)
3. A dynotune A/F saftey switch instead of the FPSS. If your O2's go lean, it shuts the system down. Seems to be alot more reliable than the FPSS.