A4 Nitrous Guys Inside
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This might be a stupid question, but I couldn't find the answer I was looking for.
I'll be getting a nitrous tune soon and am wondering what you guys do about shift points. From what I've seen nitrous will bring the peak hp down a few hundred rmps. What do you do to maintain optimum perfomance on and off the bottle? You just leave the shift points where they should be for NA and just spin the motor well past the peak while on the bottle?
Currently I peak at 6500, shift points at 6700. I don't want to be short shifting when ever I'm not spraying...
I'll be getting a nitrous tune soon and am wondering what you guys do about shift points. From what I've seen nitrous will bring the peak hp down a few hundred rmps. What do you do to maintain optimum perfomance on and off the bottle? You just leave the shift points where they should be for NA and just spin the motor well past the peak while on the bottle?
Currently I peak at 6500, shift points at 6700. I don't want to be short shifting when ever I'm not spraying...
Last edited by calongo_SS; May 18, 2005 at 03:22 PM.
my shift points are the same on the bottle and off the bottle. my timing is a tad low for the shot i am using right now and i can tell a slight diff in how it pulls up top but nothing major. i think you would be fine in your current shift points. best bet is to put it on the track and see what you can do n/a with the new tune. if you drop off a ton then change the points.
I left the shift points the same, but due to going threw the rpms so fast, i had to raise the rev limiter. Mines set to shift at 6200, but ive seen it go to 6500 during bottle passes, well, on the computer later i saw it. I spray threw the shifts, stock trans, stock rear end. 11.1 at 122. Everything is holding together fine.
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I've got another question, that might seem stupid, but I'm gonna ask anyway. If you want to spray from a roll, do you have wait until the car down shifts to hit it?
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Yeah, I have one. That's what I wanted to hear.
Another topic, I talked to TNT on the phone the other day, and the guy (not sure what his name was), said I had way too high of a stall (TCI 3500). He said I'd just spray right through it on a 150 shot. Anybody agree? I thought plenty of people were spraying that verter.
Another topic, I talked to TNT on the phone the other day, and the guy (not sure what his name was), said I had way too high of a stall (TCI 3500). He said I'd just spray right through it on a 150 shot. Anybody agree? I thought plenty of people were spraying that verter.
which one is it? the super street fighter 3500 w/ 2.5str? if so, then it should handle 150hp shot just fine according to TSP
Last edited by Wicked_Hugger99; May 20, 2005 at 01:36 AM.
Originally Posted by calongo_SS
Yeah, it's the SSF3500 2.5 STR. Hopefully it will be ok, I know there's got to be some people on here that are spraying with that converter.
no doubt there's folks sprayin w/ that verter. just start a thread and ask how they're doing w/ that verter or research to see if there's been a similar thread in the past
Depending on where your peak revs are and rev limiter are set should determine the max shift point on the juice.
I am like this. My shift points are set up for the juice. Yeah it short shifts a little all motor but who cares? If I was trying to go as fast as I could I would be spraying anyway right?
You don't want to hit your rev limitier while spraying that is for sure.
I say lower the shift points a bit. (go 6400 you are going to have shift extension).
With N2O there is no need to over spin the motor. In fact N2O likes lower rpm's (to a point, never shoot under 3000 rpm) that way there is more time to fill the cylinders between combustion cycles.
Also, spray through the shifts. You don't want the N2O turning on and off during a pass. That is how mine is set up and I have had zero problems.
Pull 5* of timing for a 100 shot, run TR6's and you will be fine.
Just don't over rev the motor. ARP rod bolts = cheap insurance they are the first thing to go in high rpm situations.
3500 stall should be fine with N2O unless it is junk, I spray a 3800 vig with no problems. (wish I had a 4000)
I am like this. My shift points are set up for the juice. Yeah it short shifts a little all motor but who cares? If I was trying to go as fast as I could I would be spraying anyway right?
You don't want to hit your rev limitier while spraying that is for sure.
I say lower the shift points a bit. (go 6400 you are going to have shift extension).
With N2O there is no need to over spin the motor. In fact N2O likes lower rpm's (to a point, never shoot under 3000 rpm) that way there is more time to fill the cylinders between combustion cycles.
Also, spray through the shifts. You don't want the N2O turning on and off during a pass. That is how mine is set up and I have had zero problems.
Pull 5* of timing for a 100 shot, run TR6's and you will be fine.
Just don't over rev the motor. ARP rod bolts = cheap insurance they are the first thing to go in high rpm situations.
3500 stall should be fine with N2O unless it is junk, I spray a 3800 vig with no problems. (wish I had a 4000)
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If you're spraying your 4000, I'm sure I'll be fine.
I guess when I get it on the dyno I'll see where it peaks and try to find a happy medium for my shift points.
I am going to use the window switch at least until I get a built tranny which isn't something I hope to be purchasing real soon (but can if this one ***** the bed).
What is bad about the spray shutting off for just those couple hundred RPM's?
I guess when I get it on the dyno I'll see where it peaks and try to find a happy medium for my shift points.
I am going to use the window switch at least until I get a built tranny which isn't something I hope to be purchasing real soon (but can if this one ***** the bed).
What is bad about the spray shutting off for just those couple hundred RPM's?
The SSF3500 is a perfect converter for the spray. Its not that loose so the nitrous will still hit pretty hard. I know plenty of guys spraying with a 4000 stall and not having any problems. But,the 3500 will be perfect for N/A and the spray.
The reason its not good to have the nitrous going on and off during runs is because thats a pretty hard hit on the motor everytime the nitrous comes back on. Thats the only bad thing about nitrous.. The initial hit is where the damage comes in..
I spray a 125 shot thru the shifts on my stock trans with 110k on it.. I'm sure you will be fine..
The reason its not good to have the nitrous going on and off during runs is because thats a pretty hard hit on the motor everytime the nitrous comes back on. Thats the only bad thing about nitrous.. The initial hit is where the damage comes in..
I spray a 125 shot thru the shifts on my stock trans with 110k on it.. I'm sure you will be fine..
so i guess i had better leave out my 6400 shut off rpm pill since it shifts at 6500 and spray through the shifts then? trannys built so i guess i should be ok since ur doin it on a stock tranny
i always heard its harder on the tranny sprayin through the shifts that way but then if the gas goes on and off and on then its harder on the motor then eh? im a nitrous newbie so............
i always heard its harder on the tranny sprayin through the shifts that way but then if the gas goes on and off and on then its harder on the motor then eh? im a nitrous newbie so............
Spraying through the shifts is very hard on the tranny. I wouldn't do it. The again, if you're only running like 11's on juice I suppose you're not making enough power to hurt it any more than an 11 second N/A motor.


