Does this power seem right?
Does this power seem right? I got my car dynotuned today and I am curious to see what everyone else is dynoing with similar setups.
NA was 353hp/358tq and on a 115 dry shot (twin .036 jets) I got 428hp/499tq
Bottle pressure was only 915 though. Still the NA runs seem a bit low.
Does this seem right with a lid, LS6 intake, comp cam 218/226 112, midlengths, and gmmg catback through an m6 w/3.73s? My A/F was right on NA, but with spray it was real rich at less than 10 to 1, there was no way for us to adjust it, I guess it is safer than going lean. Does anyone else have a problem with going rich on a dry shot. Might convert to a wet shot so I can tune it better.
NA was 353hp/358tq and on a 115 dry shot (twin .036 jets) I got 428hp/499tq
Bottle pressure was only 915 though. Still the NA runs seem a bit low.
Does this seem right with a lid, LS6 intake, comp cam 218/226 112, midlengths, and gmmg catback through an m6 w/3.73s? My A/F was right on NA, but with spray it was real rich at less than 10 to 1, there was no way for us to adjust it, I guess it is safer than going lean. Does anyone else have a problem with going rich on a dry shot. Might convert to a wet shot so I can tune it better.
Something is haywire with your tune, imo. If you have your PE wot multiplier set right for the high end it should be where you want it. Are you sure your LTFT's are inline? Also remember that dual .036's is is 115 at the crank and 97.75rwhp taking 15% drive train lose into account. If you want a true 115 to the rear wheels stick dual .040's in and it'll be114.75rwhp.
you're not really speaking my language Robert, I don't know how to tune my car, got it tuned at Next Level Performance by Mike Norris. LTFT's? PE wot multiplier? What are those? Also do my NA numbers seem allright? Does anyone else have a problem with dry kits doing this?
I agree with Robert56 your having some type of tune issue. You picked up 70rwhp and there is 15-20rwhp out there lost in the tune. 10-1 is too rich, it should be closer to 12-1. On the other hand your torque is great.
And NO a wet kit would not turn it up a notch, it would hide the tuning issue at hand because all you would do is adjust the fuel jet to lean it out and HIDE the problem.
which kit are you running or how is the nitrous being sprayed into your lid?
is your mass air screened or descreened?
And NO a wet kit would not turn it up a notch, it would hide the tuning issue at hand because all you would do is adjust the fuel jet to lean it out and HIDE the problem.
which kit are you running or how is the nitrous being sprayed into your lid?
is your mass air screened or descreened?
Originally Posted by red fury
I agree with Robert56 your having some type of tune issue. You picked up 70rwhp and there is 15-20rwhp out there lost in the tune. 10-1 is too rich, it should be closer to 12-1. On the other hand your torque is great.
And NO a wet kit would not turn it up a notch, it would hide the tuning issue at hand because all you would do is adjust the fuel jet to lean it out and HIDE the problem.
which kit are you running or how is the nitrous being sprayed into your lid?
is your mass air screened or descreened?
And NO a wet kit would not turn it up a notch, it would hide the tuning issue at hand because all you would do is adjust the fuel jet to lean it out and HIDE the problem.
which kit are you running or how is the nitrous being sprayed into your lid?
is your mass air screened or descreened?
so you "justanllluzion" think that his car is going RICH 10.1 because the dry shot is taxing his fuel system.......Correct me if needed but, it is to my understanding that if the fuel system was not capable of suppling the needed fuel then the a/f would be lean not rich.
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Confirm your NA tune is correct first, then if you're still getting over-fueling by spraying the MAF, you could simply place one of your nozzles behind the MAF to reduce what the MAF sees, or jet the system up until the power gets to what you want. I'd go with jetting it up myself.
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Verdad Gallardo I no longer have the stock injectors I now have 30# SVOs. The computer was tune for them and my A/F is right on NA. My 5177 kit is set up to spray on both sides of the lid. Was my bottle pressure a factor (915 psi)? I've heard of people spraying a 200 dry shot so why can't my MAF read the 115 shot and put in the correct amount of fuel in? I am not sure if it is descreened or not but I'll check. Also how do the NA numbers look? It seems that the dyno used is kind of known for being a little on the stingy side.
I agree with Robert as well, the NOS kits are rated at the crank. You are also most likely losing a little with that 112 cam. A 114 or more would be much better suited for a nitrous application. I think your gain is decent for what you have.
I am gonna do a pulley and port my throttle body, then dyno it at another dyno and see where I stand.Maybe I will borrow a friend's MAF and see if that is the problem with the nitrous. I guess I was just a little disappointed because I was expecting my hp and tq to be in the high 360s low 370s, and with nitrous 470s. But 499tq on n2o isn't bad, after all it is tq that get us down the track.
IMHO i think your pretty damn close to being where you need to be.first off you have a CC 218/22?.... that is a MILD cam.i think its better that your A/F is at 10:1...itll keep you from blowing something right now.til you can afford a new wet kit.i also agree that the mid-length's are DEFINITELY holding you back.at least a few, needed ponies.if you can leave your nozzles where they are and try to lean your fpr a little bit, i also think that would help.915 is still within normal operating pressure, nut could use a few psi.was it hot that day, thatll rob a few.i also know of guys who cut their air filter and poked their nozzles thru it to help retreive some more n2o.but i think overalll thats not too shabby.nice TQ increase.
but a new wet kit is THE best thing you could do.
but a new wet kit is THE best thing you could do.
Mike Norris was my tuner and he said that there was no way to tune the car with the nitrous because it is the MAFs job to tell the computer how much fuel to send. My A/F NA was 13 to 1 across the graph but the A/F on nitrous was the problem. I don't doubt that Mike is a good tuner, I know he is, but I also know that he doesn't have much experience with dry kits. Could it be that my MAF is screwed up somehow?
Yes the maf tells how much fuel to send, and on top of that, you have a Power Enrichment Multiplier. This is added as an additional percent at wot. anything besides wot and comp will try to maintain 14.7:1. This is the basic way to tune for n2o. So it makes no sense that you have 13:1 and 10:1 on the same multiplier. Unless the multiplier is set richer at the higher maf freq. These higher freq aren't seen in a n/a application, so they may need to be adjusted. There is also a AIT PE mode that can be added into the mix. I would take it back to this guy and see if he is using HP Tuner, if so he can fix the problem if he knows how. Something is messed up. Or try the bigger jets like 2001s10 suggested, that should lean it out a bit, not the right way, imo, but can be done. If someone actually dosen't know how to tune for a dry hit, you should have basically the same a/f n/a and n2o (multipler) and that's why some say it's a comprimise tune for dry. This is why good tuners are hard to come by, lots to know and understand. Do you have the dyno sheet?
Robert
Robert
Thanks for the good info Robert. I do have the graph but I don't have a scanner. I will use my buddies when I get a chance. My tuner was using LS1EDIT not hptuners, and I will bring this to his attention. I am going back because my speedo still isn't working and the car still dies occasionaly when I have the AC on.