Running lean 13.9 what to do B4 nitrous install?
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Running lean 13.9 what to do B4 nitrous install? I'm new to LS1 took my car 2000 A4 Z28 to get dynoed, I'm running lean 13.9 all the way across. What do I need to do to "richin" up before I go with a dry kit?
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 27
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I'm not throwing any codes. I don't think my "tune" is stock because my car has gears 4.10's and the speedometer is accurate, and also my AIR and EGR are gone and no codes are present, so wouldn't someone have to tune those mods ? would a stock tune run that lean? I have a lid, exhaust cut out, 4.10's emissions delete, SFC's and "shift kit" The broker I got my car from didn't know any history of my car or didn't want to admit it. I know my car was "raced" B4 because it had shitlods of rubber behind both rear tires it has all the free mods + gears and shift kit and it has an air bag in the right rear spring, kind of think she has already been sprayed because she had NGK TR6 plugs and the jack and spare were MIA. Me and some friends are gonna install a dry nitrous kit, but I'm concerned with the "lean" factor right now.
Thanks feels free to email me off board to conserve bandwidth
deucetorres@gmail.com
Thanks feels free to email me off board to conserve bandwidth
deucetorres@gmail.com
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Yeah, your PCM has a tune more then likely. It could be from a handheld (predator, hypertech) or done via edit or HP tuners. At this point who knows what has been done to it. You could take it in and see if the PCM can be read and then go through and see what has been changed. Or you could start from scratch, take it to a dealer and have it re-flashed to stock and then get it retuned for the mods you have, hopefully you know about most of them.
Matt
Matt
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I would take it to someone and get it tuned before you spray it. If it is that lean on the dyno it is even leaner on the street with a real load. Check the fuel pressure under load and check to see what the injector duty cycle is before adding on nitrous. I would think some bigger injectors would be a good idea with a dry shot. The 2000's came with the smallest stock injectors 25lb/hr. They are not enough to support a bolt on car with nitrous on top of it. Had to have been tuned to delete those codes with a real tuner cable. Did you try to dyno through full exhaust to see the a/f difference?
I agree with whats been said. You need to data log and find out whats been changed. If it's a handheld tune it prob had timing added (which is not good on the spray). 13.9:1 is to lean even n/a imo. The simple way is to set your WOT Power Enrichment Mulitplier to end up with a/f you want. Any good tuner can do this. Like was said make sure your not running out of injectors. What HP did you get and we can tell what size injectors you'll need with the spray on top of that.
Robert
Robert
Well at almost 14.1 a/f you are not going to make good numbers. You probably had a good amount of detonation and lost timing from knock retard. You have to get the car straightened out before adding on new problems. I would swap to some ford svo 30 injectors and tune it. You'll be amazed at the difference in response with a proper a/f and timing. Maybe someone local with an hp tuner cable can help you out.
Correct, that's optional A/F for part throttle. IE: driving around town (all production EFI engines are set up for 14.7). It's not normal for WOT A/F.
Originally Posted by gollum
1998 GM F Body service manual states "when LS1 engine is fully warm the AFR is 14.7 to 1".
