Valve Stem Again..
Valve Stem Again.. When I look inside the fuel rail(after removing the valve stem) Should I see any gold? There is still gold metal inside of it, and it's in there real good. Just need to know if it needs to come out or not..
Thanks,
Justin
Thanks,
Justin
Dude...your killing me. If it is loose gold metal flakes, no get rid of it. If it is the ring of threads from the Valve, then find a torx but or similar to jam inside the circle, where the valve used to be, locking down on it and turn (unscrew) it. Then clean the rails ID Threads off.
you may have to drill it out at this point to make sure you got it all,(youll never get a new valve in there anyway) and for god's sake flush the rail out good like charlie said
I flushed it out with cycling it and running fuel through it. It still has gold metal that appears to be a bracket or something that the valve stem went inside of. But it is in there real well. I cycled it and cleaned it. I even ran the nitrous last night, and no problems whatsoever.(knock on wood),
Thats probably brass inside. When you line up all the parts you brought out of the rail, you should have a needle valve, a small sealing ring, and then the outer shell of the valve which is made of: needle seat (inner most part the valve rests on when holding back pressure) the body (which has the external threads (made of brass usually) and then the head (looks like a bridge if you will that the remover tool holds onto for removal). The outer shell is originally one piece, but...as I stated on mine in particular the head broke off, so I had to fish the valve itself out, leaving the remaining part of the body. I then used a long handled torx bit screwdriver, slightly bigger than the valve, and jammed it into the body, where the valve used to reside. After it was seated fully, I simply turned and it unscrewed. The process did leave the inside threads of the rail with brass (gold) shine to them, either from the rails paint coming off, or the softer brass from the valve "polishing" itself onto the rails threads, but there is no remaining valve pieces inside.
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Topdon ONE vs. Artidiag 800 BT2: Which is the Diagnostic Tablet For You?
Pouria Savadkouei
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo So did you get it all out, and is it just the internal rail threads rubbed with the brass? Hope so. If not, it may flow enough for a smaller shot, but once you get into the 150-200 it may have some issues.
