View Poll Results: Most Reliable RPM Window Switch?

BMN Digital

14.10%

MSD

38.46%

MSD Digital

32.05%

Other (Please Specify)

15.38%

Voters: 78. You may not vote on this poll

Most Reliable RPM Window Switch?

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Sep 5, 2005 | 07:39 AM

XTrooper

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From: NE PA

Most Reliable RPM Window Switch?

Who has not had any problems with their rpm window switch and what brand is it? Also, is it digital or does it take "pills" (analog)?

Thanks!

Sep 5, 2005 | 08:04 AM

brad8266

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From: Watertown, NY

I have a window switch from Baker Electronics, it comes with 8 different preset RPM windows that you specify when you order it which allows you enough settings to mess around with to see what works for you. It is small and wiring is simple. No pills with this switch. It is also faily cheap, I got mine brand new for $50. Haven't had a problem with it yet.

Sep 5, 2005 | 09:56 AM

Race Car Driver

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From: Motorhome, Freeways, Truckstops, Pits

No problems with MSD's analog switch, but some problems with their digital switch.

Sep 5, 2005 | 01:45 PM

Robert56

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From: Tacoma, WA

MSD, double analogs here.
Robert

Sep 5, 2005 | 02:01 PM

So Slow

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From: DeRidder La.

I have the MSD Digital and it has worked flawlessly..Can change RPM settings on it in the car in seconds and don't have to fumble with pills or little screw drivers to get covers off...Plus for around $85 its a real bargain...

Sep 5, 2005 | 02:10 PM

02Z28

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From: Joplin, Missouri

I have a BMN, no problem with it yet and they have good customer service.

Sep 5, 2005 | 03:34 PM

dscott

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I'm happy with my MSD analog.

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Sep 5, 2005 | 10:09 PM

ws6sojuiced01

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timing tuner here no problems

Last edited by ws6sojuiced01; Dec 13, 2005 at 06:44 PM.

Sep 6, 2005 | 02:59 PM

#10

93LS1RX7

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From: Maryland

Harlens window switch.

No pills, just dipswitches.

Oh and I think it cost $30 or $50 bucks

Sep 7, 2005 | 03:02 PM

#11

XTrooper

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From: NE PA

I went out and bought an MSD digital and wired it up last night. Tested it today in the garage and on the street and it's working 100%!

One note: Don't follow the instructions and use Cylinder Mode 1 for the LS1 motor. It doesn't work. Use the 4 Cylinder mode as we normally do and it'll work fine.

Sep 7, 2005 | 03:46 PM

#12

1ScrudeDude

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From: Boring Green, Kentucky

XTrooper, I thought you had a BMN

Sep 7, 2005 | 05:28 PM

#13

XTrooper

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From: NE PA

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1ScrudeDude

XTrooper, I thought you had a BMN

I did and I ran my 11.47 run with it, but I decided to swap it out for the MSD digital.

Sep 7, 2005 | 06:22 PM

#14

1ScrudeDude

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From: Boring Green, Kentucky

Quote:

Originally Posted by XTrooper

I did and I ran my 11.47 run with it, but I decided to swap it out for the MSD digital.

That's cool.

Are you ok without the 1st gear lockout? That's what swayed me to BMN.

1st gear with 4.10's and MT Radials = 1st gear lockout
1st gear with 4.10's and 28" slick = Let her rip!!

Sep 7, 2005 | 06:55 PM

#15

foshizl

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MSD Digital, never had any problems at all... i let it spray in first gear though... i have a WOT switch and FPSS too...

Sep 7, 2005 | 07:49 PM

#16

XTrooper

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From: NE PA

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1ScrudeDude

That's cool.

Are you ok without the 1st gear lockout? That's what swayed me to BMN.

1st gear with 4.10's and MT Radials = 1st gear lockout
1st gear with 4.10's and 28" slick = Let her rip!!

I started spraying at 4 grand in 1st with no problems.

Sep 7, 2005 | 09:40 PM

#17

1ScrudeDude

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From: Boring Green, Kentucky

Quote:

Originally Posted by XTrooper

I started spraying at 4 grand in 1st with no problems.

Not sure if my stock 16" wheels with the MT 245's will take ~540RWTQ on the dope in first, but well worth the try

Sep 8, 2005 | 04:49 AM

#18

XTrooper

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From: NE PA

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1ScrudeDude

Not sure if my stock 16" wheels with the MT 245's will take ~540RWTQ on the dope in first, but well worth the try

Yes, I'd definitely try it because if you can manage it with the spray, your 60' times (and consequently your 1/4 ET's) will improve. My previous best 60' time was a 1.72 on a dead hook launch which improved to a 1.69 on my nitrous run. I completely attribute the improvement to my spraying from 4000 rpm in 1st. I think I'm going to experiment by lowering that 4000 rpm point to first 3900, then 3800 and see if I maintain traction. I don't want to go below 3800 rpm because they say to leave at least a 200 rpm gap between your torque converter's stall speed and when the nitrous hits. As I have a 3500 stall speed converter, I figure a 3800 lower rpm window point would be good, safe starting point, if it doesn't adversely affect my traction.