Testing/Bypassing FPSS
11 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Boring Green, Kentucky
Sponsors....any comments?
XTrooper, let us know about the A/F ratio nitrous shutoff switch. I didn't know about this device, sounds like a better version of an FPSS for sure.
Can I, and where can I get one?
XTrooper, let us know about the A/F ratio nitrous shutoff switch. I didn't know about this device, sounds like a better version of an FPSS for sure.
Can I, and where can I get one?
Thread Starter
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From: NE PA
[QUOTE=antz01ta] Yeah, I remember you telling me that, Glenn. It looks like I'll be doing the same till something better comes along. 
Originally Posted by XTrooper
Well, I bypassed it and now I'm spraying again, so it must be the damn FPSS.
QUOTE]
i took mine off too steve, havent run one for 2 years now.
QUOTE]
i took mine off too steve, havent run one for 2 years now.
Thread Starter
11 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: NE PA
Originally Posted by 1ScrudeDude
Sponsors....any comments?
XTrooper, let us know about the A/F ratio nitrous shutoff switch. I didn't know about this device, sounds like a better version of an FPSS for sure.
Can I, and where can I get one?
XTrooper, let us know about the A/F ratio nitrous shutoff switch. I didn't know about this device, sounds like a better version of an FPSS for sure.
Can I, and where can I get one?
11 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,541
Likes: 1
From: Boring Green, Kentucky
Originally Posted by XTrooper
Well, most if not all of the progressive controllers available have this capability built-in, but for me to buy one of them I'd be paying for a lot of features I don't need and they aren't cheap. I'm hoping DynoTune releases their upcoming stand-alone A/F shutoff switch soon as it should be less of an investment and easier to install.
I am going with pure simplicity; basic NX kit on heads, cam, and bolt ons.Not a big nitrous car for sure. But I would like something to protect my current investments.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: NE PA
Originally Posted by 1ScrudeDude
But I would like something to protect my current investments.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/nitrous-oxide/387150-question-dynotune.html
11 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Boring Green, Kentucky
Originally Posted by XTrooper
I hear ya! Did you see this, amigo? A buck and a half isn't bad at all and it's ~50% less than the least expensive controller. If you don't really need a controller, this might be the way to go.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=387150
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=387150
I'm no expert here, but I have come to believe that a narrow band is not accurate enough to be reliable to shut the system down based on AFR. 
You might want to check this out thouroughly before investing in one.
I am as stingy as anyone but if I trash my motor, spending between $400.00 & $500.00 for a wideband would have been pretty darn cheap. I look at it like buying insurance. If you buy it you may never need it but if you don't and something happens you will be kicking yourself all the way to the bank!!
Hopefully we will be seeing a wideband setup for this without extra features for less $$$$. I would think they will sell.
You might want to check this out thouroughly before investing in one.
I am as stingy as anyone but if I trash my motor, spending between $400.00 & $500.00 for a wideband would have been pretty darn cheap. I look at it like buying insurance. If you buy it you may never need it but if you don't and something happens you will be kicking yourself all the way to the bank!!
Hopefully we will be seeing a wideband setup for this without extra features for less $$$$.
I would think they will sell. 
TECH Regular
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Home
I'm no expert on the subject, but I've been told by Dynotune and others that narrowbands are actually pretty accurate as long as they're on the lean side of stoich.
As far as spending $400-500 on a wideband, Dynotune has preprogrammed LC-1s for under $200, and a LC-1 gauge combo for $250 right now.
EDIT: sorry I meant wideband
As far as spending $400-500 on a wideband, Dynotune has preprogrammed LC-1s for under $200, and a LC-1 gauge combo for $250 right now.
EDIT: sorry I meant wideband
Last edited by Zeus; Sep 30, 2005 at 01:30 AM.
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Originally Posted by Zeus
I'm no expert on the subject, but I've been told by Dynotune and others that narrowbands are actually pretty accurate as long as they're on the lean side of stoich.
As far as spending $400-500 on a narrowband, Dynotune has preprogrammed LC-1s for under $200, and a LC-1 gauge combo for $250 right now.
As far as spending $400-500 on a narrowband, Dynotune has preprogrammed LC-1s for under $200, and a LC-1 gauge combo for $250 right now.
As far as I know this should catch everything except a nitrous solenoid that sticks open. If it goes lean due to fuel pump failure or for any number of reasons ( bad relay, blown fuse, bad connection etc.) the fuel solenoid does not open or only opens part way you will probably trash the motor.
The one thing that really concerns me is our state (Kansas) in their infinate wisdom
no longer requires gas stations to label the pumps if the gas contains ethenol (alcohol). So if you get a tank of gas with ethenol you may not know it. (Of course the guy at the station will probably have no clue what is in the fuel so you are on your own!) This can cause the fuel solenoid to swell and restrict the fuel delivery=lean=boom. A functioning FPSS will not help because the fuel pressure will not be effected.Beware out there our government is taking care of us, but have no clue or don't care or both how their decisions effect us citizens. Of course if we had a lobby like the grain producers have maybe the pumps will still be labled.
Thread Starter
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From: NE PA
Originally Posted by terry s
I'm no expert here, but I have come to believe that a narrow band is not accurate enough to be reliable to shut the system down based on AFR.
Actually, the narrowband readings have proven to be sufficiently accurate at WOT which is all we're really concerned with when spraying.
