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fuse blows on 5177 kit

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Old Oct 16, 2005 | 05:35 PM
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Default fuse blows on 5177 kit

every time i hit the WOT the fuse from the relay to the battery blows after the solinoid works. any Ideas on what I've done wrong. Just installed the kit 5177 with a purge, RPM window switch, and some gauges evrything seems to work fine except when getting off WOT.
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Old Oct 16, 2005 | 08:30 PM
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anyone have any suggestions besides starting over, I used the wiring diagram provided in the 5177 link but no luck. I've been searching for a few hours and found a thread where someone was having the same problem but it was never resolved in the thread. Robert posted in that thread that he thought it was resolved in another thread but i haven't come across it.
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Old Oct 16, 2005 | 09:56 PM
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As soon as you hit the wot switch the fuse blows? Or after a short time? What size fuse and power wire? Where/how is it grounded? What all is wired to that fuse exclusively?
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Old Oct 16, 2005 | 10:08 PM
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I'll get one shot of NOS in first gear let off gas to shift and try to get back on and nothing. Its the fuse on the NOS kit relay which that goes to the battery the ground from the relay goes to WOT switch then the other side of the WOT goes to the yellow wire (provides a ground source at a certain RPM) of a MSD digital window switch which seems to be working.
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Old Oct 16, 2005 | 10:10 PM
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I'm not sure what size wire it is whatever came with the kit. I'm useing a 25 amp fuse
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Old Oct 16, 2005 | 10:16 PM
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Are you grounding the solenoid through the msd or just the relay for the solenoid?
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Old Oct 16, 2005 | 10:36 PM
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one solinoid is grounded through the FPSS by itself the other is grounded at a common ground near the battery i found and tested that has the rest of the system grounded to including lighted switches and MSD window switch.
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 01:50 AM
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What size fuse are you using. wiring problems are the hardest to help with from a distant. Trace your main power wire and make sure your not grounding out? If it's working for a bit then stops/blows fuse your getting an amp draw past the capabilitie of the fuse, a short in wires, a short in a noid, sounds like a circuit is getting over loaded. Make sure you have your ground source from msd to relay on low amp side and power to noids on high amp side of relay. keep us posted. Ricky's our site wiring guru, but because you mention 5177 in title, I doubt he'll see this?
Robert
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by louwaert
one solinoid is grounded through the FPSS by itself
Bad to do, ground both solenoids to the smae point if at all possible, through a relay, have the relay operated by the fpss and the window swtitch.
Originally Posted by louwaert
the other is grounded at a common ground near the battery i found and tested that has the rest of the system grounded to including lighted switches and MSD window switch.
The msd switch and the fpss are both rated for about 4amps or less, they need to control(ground) the power relay for the nitrous solenoids. Now if there is a purge solenoid, that is a seperate circuit in itself
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 04:44 PM
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Ok, had some time to get under the hood and heres where I'm at the tech from NOS told me to check the grounds and everything tested fine just to try something i moved the #1 solinoid that was grounded alone like the NOS kit diagram shows to the other solinoid grounded at the FPSS which the NOS tech said was the way to do it and they have not yet updated the instalation diagram! Then without the car running I pulled the relay and looped the orange power to the blue wire that runs to the solinoids the 25 amp fuse took about 9 sec to blow with the solinoids held open, the tech from NOS said to hold it for 10. The fuse would hold as long as i didn't leave it on for more than a nine count. Also the #1 solinoid got a little hot. The tech from NOS thinks the wiring is fine and that the problem is with solinoid #1 he says to go back to where I bought it and get two new ones or they will send them to me. I'm going to take them up on the new solinoids just to be safe, but do you guys think this is the real issue or is something else going on. I'm trying to get my hands on a volt meter tonight to see what the solinoids are reading NOS says they should be around 7 or 8 amps.

Thanks everyone for all the help its really appreciated, keep it coming I gotta get this thing figured out before this Sat. its probably the last track day of the year here in Mich.
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 09:22 PM
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Yea, the powershot noids are a low amp draw noid 7/8 amp. Probably short in the windings inside the noids. Get the new ones and see if that's it. Let us know.
Robert
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Old Oct 23, 2005 | 11:33 AM
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Just wanted to let everyone know what happened in case someone else has the same problem. The solinoids were bad and when held open to long would blow the fuse, so after many head scratching nights and a few times rewiring I finally tried repalcing the noids and now it works geat. Thanks for everyones help now I've got to solve my traction problems
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