Sport Side

iTrader: (6)

What happens when your nitrous solenoid doesn't shut on a dry shot?
Scenario: You let off of the throttle and your motor starts decelerating and the nitrous is still spraying.

Does the MAF still compensate?

I purchased 2 nitrous solenoids to avoid this situation and it just had me thinking, "what would actually happen?"

cantdrv65

iTrader: (3)

A nitrous solenoid hanging open is bad regardless of type of kit...Dry or Wet. You will go lean, how lean and if damage occurs is all a matter of chance.

383LQ4SS

iTrader: (33)

well...actually...if you close the TB (let off the gas) there will be nitrous only going through the meter hole on the TB and around the edges of the blade. This will usualy result in the car revving high or maybe even bouncing off the rev limiter if enough is getting through. The rest of the nitrous will come out of the front of the airbox.

As long as you close the TB I dont think the effect will be catastrophic. I belive the MAF would still compensate since the entire intake charge will be nitrous at that point and be much colder than normal...it may even go rich. But thats just speculation since I dont think anyone has had a wideband on when its happened.

white2001s10

iTrader: (4)

I can tell you exactly what will happen. The engine will die immediately.
No damage.

383LQ4SS

iTrader: (33)

why would it die?

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Well my experinace with a noid, not sticking open but rather wot stuck and window sw keeping it on at above 3000. It would rev high and be very slow coming down, even when throttle was closed. Drove to track this way and was wondering why it felt so bad azz coming out of bank, and I couldn't get my shifts syncroed. At track the n2o was flowing in the burnout box and even letting off to stage the rpm's wouldn't come down. Made crappy run and was still spraying on return lane before I figured it out. Went from 1000psi plus, at begining of run to less than 600psi in the pits. Hurt nothing and I continued to race after removing tape from wot sw. My car never died or stumbled on deceration, just the rpms wouldn't come down as per normal. Try driving around town with your fuel stuck on.
Robert

383LQ4SS

iTrader: (33)

lol...Robert. What size shot was the stage that stuck open?

white2001s10

iTrader: (4)

I wouldn't bet money on knowing the exact reason that causes it to die, but I know from multiple experiences that if the N2O solenoid is wide open at idle the engine will quickly die. If it is simply leaking a little N2O from a bad plunger seal, then the engine will just idle high and surge while driving.

I haven't been scanning when the engine died with the N2O wide open, so I don't know for sure which it is, but it's either way too rich due to the MAF input, or it's way too lean due to the oxygen content.

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Well it was both stages, and I really don't remember the jetting at that time 125/150. Everytime I pulled out at a light, or the bank, because I drive hard anyway the rpms would be at 3000 and bam man this is pulling today, then 4200rpm bam it's pulling like a mo fo today. Why I didn't figure it out sooner is behond me. I have rpm activated indicator lights on my dash, so I can see when and what rpm each stage comes on.
Robert

383LQ4SS

iTrader: (33)

lol...funny stuff.

Sport Side

iTrader: (6)

Thanks everyone for the help.