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Max HP with NOS 5177 Dry Kit?

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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 02:02 PM
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Default Max HP with NOS 5177 Dry Kit?

Due to the size of the line, this kit will only make a certain amount of horsepower through certain jets. My question is, approx. how much hp will it make through:

2-NOS 36 jets
2- NOS 38 jets
2- NOS 40 jets

In other words, at some point, no matter how big the jet, the hp will be the same because the line can only supply so much gas.
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 02:07 PM
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Running no jets I think it is a 175 shot, or somewhere close to it.
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 02:12 PM
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I haven't tried it on the dyno, but when I went from 2-36 jets to 1-36 and 1-40 jet I noticed an improvement in power, and I was wondering if the kit could make 200 hp with any combination of jets. I know it would with a larger line diameter.
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 03:04 PM
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Split the solenoids up and you can. That way you wouldn't need a larger line.
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 03:13 PM
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The bottleneck is the noids, even with a bigger line.
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 03:46 PM
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No what I am talking about is running them seperate. Could do a two stage or have them both come in at the same time. Just have a feed going to each one.
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 03:59 PM
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Without splitting up the noids the most you will see is only about 140-150rwhp. The solenoids are only rated to flow about 175hp at the crank as mentioned above. If you spilt up the noids you will be able to make 200rwhp no problem. A -4an feedline will support that plus some.
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 06:13 PM
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If you take your supply line (a -4 line under ideal conditions will support a 400hp shot) and run it to the blue fitting holding the two noids together (pipe plug in hole), then take one noid and turn it around (so both are in/out correct) you'll have about a 300rwhp shot. It's been done many times and proven. so then you have one noid suppling each nozzle, and you can dual stage it this way also. I have two 5177 kits set up this way so I still retain redundant noids, and also have quad nozzles, and dual stage.
Here's a schematic from a link in my web site:

Robert

Last edited by Robert56; Jan 3, 2006 at 06:17 PM. Reason: Add Schematic
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 07:43 PM
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Damn, look at Robert making MS Paint look good! Nice diagrams and info, as always.

Roberts description is how I have mine setup, one noid filling the two nozzles, one filling a custom dual exiting nozzle. I havent put any jets in, but I will end up limiting one of the noids a little. I only want to launch and run off a 200shot at first
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 08:09 PM
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Robert,
That is one **** of a reply. It might be the best I've gotten. I'm doin it.
Originally Posted by Robert56
If you take your supply line (a -4 line under ideal conditions will support a 400hp shot) and run it to the blue fitting holding the two noids together (pipe plug in hole), then take one noid and turn it around (so both are in/out correct) you'll have about a 300rwhp shot.
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 08:48 AM
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Hey rob could you do the same with a 5176 kit?
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 95ttoplt1
Hey rob could you do the same with a 5176 kit?
That's the lt1 dry kit. I am not sure on this. I have heard of no one doing it with that kit. I think the dual noids work a little different on that kit, the first noid opens and allows nitrous to go through the FMU, then to the second noid, so splitting them up? I really can't answer this as an absolute, maybe call NOS tech. Here's something that most do not realize, the 5176 can be used on 97/98 C5's. The reason being is they use a vac ref type regulator at the rails, so you can do a dry on these cars by bypassing the MAF. Why haven't we seen this, beats me. I almost did it on my '97 c5 but opted for a MAF dry (5177).
Robert

Edit: One thing though, if your using the 5176 on a lsx car and drop the FMU and stick nozzle(s) before the maf, then yes it's doable.

Last edited by Robert56; Jan 4, 2006 at 07:28 PM.
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 07:51 PM
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This would be an LT1 so I guess not, thanks for the reply
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 07:56 PM
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Robert thanks for that informative reply and diagram...should be a sticky!!!!
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Old Jan 5, 2006 | 01:02 AM
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The 5176 kit worked great on my 1995 lt1. The fmu sends about 50-55psi of nitrous to the nipple on the fp regulator, with a bleed off jet into the intake maniflold (which regualates nitrous pressure to the nipple on the fp regulator, pressure shuts the return valve and boosts fuel pressure to over 90psi in the rail for fuel enrichment, at the same time spraying a dry single nozzle into the intake boot. .059" jet is what I used and and gained over a second in the old lt1.. very slick setup. Im sure jet sizes may be altered to make it work on the return style ls1 cars.
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Old Jan 5, 2006 | 01:34 AM
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it hit harder than the 5177 kit in stock form, but im learning more on how to make the 5177 work better, with the help of Robert56.
pcm tune is next on the list. + my trans is going under the knife for firmer shifts and no more smoking the 2nd gear band. new band, pushrod and aftermarket servo is on the way.
I may delete the 2-3 accumilator also, but not sure yet. I also may send my verter back to Yank for inspection while we are there. fluid looks good and smells normal. but 1-2 slippage is def happening, especially cold. Is there known problems with the 4L60-E that I can ask about?

Last edited by z28viperkiller; Jan 5, 2006 at 01:48 AM. Reason: ignorance
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Old Jan 5, 2006 | 06:24 AM
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Hey Killer thanks alot, I am piecing together a 5176 from my wet purge kit, I am getting a 255lph walbro, will that be enough for the fuel side or will I still need a booster pump?
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Old Jan 5, 2006 | 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by z28viperkiller
it hit harder than the 5177 kit in stock form, but im learning more on how to make the 5177 work better, with the help of Robert56.
pcm tune is next on the list. + my trans is going under the knife for firmer shifts and no more smoking the 2nd gear band. new band, pushrod and aftermarket servo is on the way.
I may delete the 2-3 accumilator also, but not sure yet. I also may send my verter back to Yank for inspection while we are there. fluid looks good and smells normal. but 1-2 slippage is def happening, especially cold. Is there known problems with the 4L60-E that I can ask about?
Two things you can do to make the 5177 hit harder. Drop one of the redundant noids, then keep lines from noid to nozzles as short as possible. also, replacing "tee" with a "y" will help a slight bit. On the other hand, on my '97, I made a poor man's window switch by extending/adding a line from the noids to the tee, took a couple extra micro seconds to hit clylinders, but enough time to be able to floor that bad boy auto right outa the hole, with no problemos, cause would be around 3000rpm before spray was doing it's thing. Tuning these kits can be done in many ways.
Robert
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Old Jan 5, 2006 | 03:45 PM
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I don't know what "kit" I have now, but I kept the 5177 line, replaced the 5177 noids with a set of NOS Part no. 16000 noids (250 shot) and have moved into the 40/44 jet size range.
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