I know the thought is to keep the torque a little lower and flatter, while ramping up the hp as the nitrous progresses, but cant recall (I am tired) any dry guys using this setup. Are there issues with the fuel pump or something?
Currently I have a 5177 split up for two different stages. I was planning on using one stage out of the hole with no jets, ~150rwhp, then delay/WS/progressively intorduce the second stage also sans jets. The more I think about it, if there are no issues, I might as well do both stages wired off the pro-control and slowly ramp it up. Using a dyno I can watch where the tq vs hp are and adjust the ramp rates accordingly.
So, Robert or anyone else do you see any issues with this?

Run down:
10# bottle
Dynotune heater
-4 Line
NX Filter (up front)
5177 split Robert style
Noid 1- to NOS Nozzles w/o jets
Noid 2- to koolrayz custom single inlet dual outlet centered on lid, jetless
Walbro in-tank pump
FMS 42# injectors
Speed Inc Rails -6 off the line to -8 inlet and crossover
TR-6 Plugs gapped accordingly
Tuning by me via HPT

Forged 347, 11+ cr, custom Nitrous cam by EDC, TH350 w/ 4000 stall and soon to be shredded Stock 10bolt!

 

NOS powershot noids might be fine for regular use, but I dont think I would trust them with heavy progressive use, especially since you split them up and are not running them in tandem for safety. Your theory sounds good though. The idea of fogging the airbox progressively should work well seeing as the nitrous has time to mix well before entering the intake manifold, so the progression should be super smooth. I would also think running the dry side progressively would get rid of any lean spikes seen by one large dry hit.

 

Good point, forgot to include...I plan on replacing the noids with some new noid that are up to the task of pulsing.

 

That what I am doing on my new setup. It will be one BIG noid and all dry with the dual stage mini controller. It doesnt get any simpler than that.

So yeah you can do the progressive dry.

As a matter of fact Vince's setup was progressive dry and he made well into the 800+ rwhp are all dry.

 

Yea, progressively running a dry is no problem. the only reason I don't/haven't is cause I had all the stuff to just dual stage. also, with just a flip of a sw I can go 1 stge, 2stge or 3stage, however 3rd stage will be progressive in near future. rumor has it that the power shot noids aren't to good for progressing, but I would call NOS tech to be certain, because I think they change the material to teflon from the old style butal (I think it was)?
Robert

 

I am also running the NOS 5177 kit and have changed to a NX "IceMan" noid to take the pulsing..........just waiting on my NX mini controller to come in and get too wireing. I am not sure yet if I will be using the rpm or time delay ramp.

 

I think it will freak the MAF out until it is maxed out. The MAF doesnt like the fast bursts of N20 like that because it cannot react as fast. So you may get a lean spike because of the MAF not keeping up with the progressor.

I like your 1st idea better, hit it with the 150 shot(put the right jet in it with the better noids no running it with no jet) hopefully it will max out the MAF then progress the 2nd stage.

My set up is a hidden all dry 2 stage (125-75) with the FJO controller

 

After maxing out the MAF, what determines fueling? I know the answer is somewhere in my notes, but cant find it.

AL, how are saying your going? You mention one BIG Noid, but then mention 2 stages?

Time to order up a round of Noids....now to decide from where!

 

You'll have to go pretty big to max the maf out. Noids, we have the 400hp PRO Dry noids, a couple of them bad boys and a dual stage you'll be able to go 800hp shot.
Robert

Edit: Oh yea once you max maf out and have big enough injectors, you just keep upping the nitrous jet until your a/f falls where you want it. some have done this, but, imo, it's less than ideal for most of us. The easiest way to max it out is to hit it close with the spray.

 

I don't think that would be the case. I think the noids pulse so fast that there is no noticable bursts. I guess the only way to be sure is hold the nossle up to open air and test the system and see for yourself. Or look at the maf rates while testing. If the progression was really that sparattic, I would think big shot wet kits on progressive controllers would be blowing motors up all the time.

 

No..im using one big noid and the dual stage controller. Thats just the name...dual stage controller or mini dual stage or whatever. Its the $206 one from FJO. I will only need one stage based off RPM. So Ill have one big noid and use one stage of the controller progressively with rpm.

And it doesnt freak the MAF out. Works just fine. I think if you had it too close to the maf it may freak it out...but so would a normal shot.

 

Kinda along the same lines but with a 5176 kit on an LT1, would the delay between the fuel pressure spike to energize the N2o noid screw up pulsing this kit?

 

Charlie I see in your post that the noids are split robert style and that noyzee did youre custom center nozzle. did you sell the setup i sent you?

 

I have watched it on the dyno with a clear lid on the car.

You can see the spray go on and off and the car surge with it.

Might work if you faced the nossle away from the MAF but spraying that much faced away from the motor wouldnt be efficent.

 

If it is already spraying 1 stage then you progress the 2nd it will have alot less effect on the MAF.(freaking it out)

How far away is your nossle? Which way do you have it aimed?

Mine is pretty close and it works great just hitting it 100% if it is close and you progress it it will freak the MAF out.

 

Damn it, that was my mistake man. Edited my post. ****. Sorry. No, I still have the koolrayz dual dry system and other then needing noid that can pulse heavily, love it.

 

N.O.S. solenoids are bad for progressive controlled systems? You guys are listening to too many old wives tales. My brother and I have been using both the smaller and larger solenoids on our Street Bike Shootout bike. On a 175 progressive shot it runs 7.80's @ 186mph. I think the N.O.S. solenoids work fine...

 

now thats an interesting question

I dont think you would be able to do it that way. I think you may have to go to a wet kit. Have to think about that one.

 

If you could see the spray go off and on and the car surge with it...maybe something was wrong with the noid. Maybe it wasnt opening with each pulse. It would be tough to detect the car surging 14 times a second. So if it was surging in a noticable fashion it may have been due to another reason.

The system I tested it on was on a regular 5177 kit with the nozzles on either side of the intake lid. And it had no issues from 490 rwhp (NA) then spraying up to 750 rwhp all dry thru the controller. Ill see if I can find the graph. On mine I have a pretty long intake tube and dual filters out front. There is a long space for the nitrous to mix with the ambient air.

If you experianced some surging due to the MAF freaking out there are a few things you could do IMO. Change the direction the nozzle points in relation to the MAF, Increase the lenght or diameter of the line after the noid so the pulses have more time to recombine on thier way to the nozzle. Actually a good way to possibly do this would be go from the -3 line to a short -4 line and then back to -3 again and to the nozzle.

Another way to do this...especially if you have a 5177 kit split into dual stages...or just a dual stage dry....would be to run each stage at the same time ramping at the various rates. This will double the frequency, I believe, of the actual openings and closings. Since the contoller alternates between stages. In other words one stage comes on for its cycle then power goes to the other stage for its cycle.

You could also try to jack up the frequency a bit so the pulses are smaller but more frequent...this would smooth the flow as well. But Id ask the manufacturer of the noid what the max freq would be before doing that.

Another thing that may help would be to run lower pressure and larger jets. That MAY decrease some of the velocity of the pulses the MAF sees if its freaking it out.

Just a few ideas for you if you are certain you were having these problems due to the pulses freaking out the MAF. I have no idea if any will work But it may be worth a shot for you to utilize your controller in progressive modes.

 

Thats interesting. What controller and noids was this with? I remember a guy using a Crane progressive controller on his nos dry kit and the dyno graph was sparratic, but recently viewing a couple graphs on cars equipped with FJO units and other solenoids, the graphs looked smooth. I just chalked that first one to crappy parts.