View Poll Results: Cam + N2O vs. No Cam But More N2O
No cam, spray the piss out of it
3
10.34%
Cam + 200 shot
12
41.38%
Cam + 175 shot
12
41.38%
Cam and just keep the 5177 kit
2
6.90%
Voters: 29. You may not vote on this poll
Cam + N2O vs. No Cam But More N2O
01-10-2006, 09:23 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by 227Hawk
G5X2 that's alot of cam. But once rev'd up it'll put some numbers down. You can probably get by with less cam on the spray. My.02 is lower the powerband and use the
spray to compliment the cam. That's alot of cam to tune N/A and back w/ spray.
Hawk
spray to compliment the cam. That's alot of cam to tune N/A and back w/ spray.
Hawk
For all of you who voted big cam and more spray, You win. I just pulled the trigger on a MS3 cam from a member on here. Maybe it was your posts that helped to do what I already knew I was going to do or maybe it was this 6th beer I'm working on (beer always wins). Regardless, it's gonna be a MS3 with full bolt-ons through an M6 and a 200 shot progressive DP kit with a dedicated fuel supply. Hopefully with a good tune and every base covered it should survive. Either way should be one fun ride. Any thoughts or opinions on this set-up?
01-10-2006, 09:49 PM
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I'm the only one that voted for the last option.
If you had an automatic I would say stock cam and spray more, but with a manual your shift recovery is much higher. You are likely to get more power by running a good cam (not neccessarily huge) and your 100 shot.
Having a manual trans means more HP on the dyno, but also means less likely your engine will survive long. You may not get away with the cam + 200 shot for too many passes.
If you had an automatic I would say stock cam and spray more, but with a manual your shift recovery is much higher. You are likely to get more power by running a good cam (not neccessarily huge) and your 100 shot.
Having a manual trans means more HP on the dyno, but also means less likely your engine will survive long. You may not get away with the cam + 200 shot for too many passes.
01-10-2006, 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by white2001s10
I'm the only one that voted for the last option.
If you had an automatic I would say stock cam and spray more, but with a manual your shift recovery is much higher. You are likely to get more power by running a good cam (not neccessarily huge) and your 100 shot.
Having a manual trans means more HP on the dyno, but also means less likely your engine will survive long. You may not get away with the cam + 200 shot for too many passes.
If you had an automatic I would say stock cam and spray more, but with a manual your shift recovery is much higher. You are likely to get more power by running a good cam (not neccessarily huge) and your 100 shot.
Having a manual trans means more HP on the dyno, but also means less likely your engine will survive long. You may not get away with the cam + 200 shot for too many passes.
01-11-2006, 08:38 AM
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First is the higher average RPM while making a pass. The engine is more vulnerable to stress damage the higher the RPM is, and having a manual keeps the RPM up for longer.
Second is the added loading at shift recovery. An automatic has the cushion of the torque converter to ease the transition of engine speed from one gear to the next. Stresses are especially high when a slick or wrinkle wall is used with a manual. It's true that these stress peaks break more trans/rear/driveshafts than they do engines, but the engine still sees more.
Third is the increased chance of a backfire or bent-rod incident during launch on the bottle with a manual. Once traction is achieved, the piston speed slows abruptly and can sometimes decelerate if there was a tire/clutch slip situation. Nitrous increases cylinder filling and burn-rate. A fast burn-rate doesn't like a slow piston speed. Too much of the mix burns before TDC in this case and shoots the temperature way up in the chamber. The automatics converter will normally flash or slip right past the traction event keeping the piston speed increasing at a much more steady rate. For this reason an automatic is usually able to activate nitrous at a lower RPM without running into the backfire or bent-rod problems.
Fourth is the chance of just about the worst case scenario for a manual which is downshifting when you should've upshifted. I don't see many engines escaping damage when this happens on the bottle. Most people are careful not to do it, but the possibility is there for a manual.
I don't know if that helps, but I did expand
Second is the added loading at shift recovery. An automatic has the cushion of the torque converter to ease the transition of engine speed from one gear to the next. Stresses are especially high when a slick or wrinkle wall is used with a manual. It's true that these stress peaks break more trans/rear/driveshafts than they do engines, but the engine still sees more.
Third is the increased chance of a backfire or bent-rod incident during launch on the bottle with a manual. Once traction is achieved, the piston speed slows abruptly and can sometimes decelerate if there was a tire/clutch slip situation. Nitrous increases cylinder filling and burn-rate. A fast burn-rate doesn't like a slow piston speed. Too much of the mix burns before TDC in this case and shoots the temperature way up in the chamber. The automatics converter will normally flash or slip right past the traction event keeping the piston speed increasing at a much more steady rate. For this reason an automatic is usually able to activate nitrous at a lower RPM without running into the backfire or bent-rod problems.
Fourth is the chance of just about the worst case scenario for a manual which is downshifting when you should've upshifted. I don't see many engines escaping damage when this happens on the bottle. Most people are careful not to do it, but the possibility is there for a manual.
I don't know if that helps, but I did expand
01-11-2006, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Bird-Of-Prey
I agree with you on this. The G5X2 is alot of cam but is also an awesome cam. From time to time I think of not doing a cam at all because if I do it will definatley be a good sized cam. Just can't bring myself to install a small cam.
For all of you who voted big cam and more spray, You win. I just pulled the trigger on a MS3 cam from a member on here. Maybe it was your posts that helped to do what I already knew I was going to do or maybe it was this 6th beer I'm working on (beer always wins). Regardless, it's gonna be a MS3 with full bolt-ons through an M6 and a 200 shot progressive DP kit with a dedicated fuel supply. Hopefully with a good tune and every base covered it should survive. Either way should be one fun ride. Any thoughts or opinions on this set-up?
For all of you who voted big cam and more spray, You win. I just pulled the trigger on a MS3 cam from a member on here. Maybe it was your posts that helped to do what I already knew I was going to do or maybe it was this 6th beer I'm working on (beer always wins). Regardless, it's gonna be a MS3 with full bolt-ons through an M6 and a 200 shot progressive DP kit with a dedicated fuel supply. Hopefully with a good tune and every base covered it should survive. Either way should be one fun ride. Any thoughts or opinions on this set-up?
01-11-2006, 07:00 PM
#26
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Originally Posted by GM Muscle
You'll like the MS3, the drivablility is amazing for it's size and it puts down some good numbers. Right off the street my car runs 10.60s@130 with a 150 shot, that's with 2.5" duals choking the car. Are you still running a stock clutch and rear?
I do still have the stock clutch and rear end but that's obviously going to have to change. I've been looking into the LS7 clutch with the LS2 flywheel combo but might just end up running a RAM or maybe even a Spec. 4.10 gears are definatley comming. Your 1/4 mi time and mph look good to me. I'd be happy if I'm somewhere near there.
01-12-2006, 02:36 AM
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Originally Posted by white2001s10
First is the higher average RPM while making a pass. The engine is more vulnerable to stress damage the higher the RPM is, and having a manual keeps the RPM up for longer.
Second is the added loading at shift recovery. An automatic has the cushion of the torque converter to ease the transition of engine speed from one gear to the next. Stresses are especially high when a slick or wrinkle wall is used with a manual. It's true that these stress peaks break more trans/rear/driveshafts than they do engines, but the engine still sees more.
Third is the increased chance of a backfire or bent-rod incident during launch on the bottle with a manual. Once traction is achieved, the piston speed slows abruptly and can sometimes decelerate if there was a tire/clutch slip situation. Nitrous increases cylinder filling and burn-rate. A fast burn-rate doesn't like a slow piston speed. Too much of the mix burns before TDC in this case and shoots the temperature way up in the chamber. The automatics converter will normally flash or slip right past the traction event keeping the piston speed increasing at a much more steady rate. For this reason an automatic is usually able to activate nitrous at a lower RPM without running into the backfire or bent-rod problems.
Fourth is the chance of just about the worst case scenario for a manual which is downshifting when you should've upshifted. I don't see many engines escaping damage when this happens on the bottle. Most people are careful not to do it, but the possibility is there for a manual.
I don't know if that helps, but I did expand
Second is the added loading at shift recovery. An automatic has the cushion of the torque converter to ease the transition of engine speed from one gear to the next. Stresses are especially high when a slick or wrinkle wall is used with a manual. It's true that these stress peaks break more trans/rear/driveshafts than they do engines, but the engine still sees more.
Third is the increased chance of a backfire or bent-rod incident during launch on the bottle with a manual. Once traction is achieved, the piston speed slows abruptly and can sometimes decelerate if there was a tire/clutch slip situation. Nitrous increases cylinder filling and burn-rate. A fast burn-rate doesn't like a slow piston speed. Too much of the mix burns before TDC in this case and shoots the temperature way up in the chamber. The automatics converter will normally flash or slip right past the traction event keeping the piston speed increasing at a much more steady rate. For this reason an automatic is usually able to activate nitrous at a lower RPM without running into the backfire or bent-rod problems.
Fourth is the chance of just about the worst case scenario for a manual which is downshifting when you should've upshifted. I don't see many engines escaping damage when this happens on the bottle. Most people are careful not to do it, but the possibility is there for a manual.
I don't know if that helps, but I did expand
