As I wire this new motor I keep coming up with ideas and questions. So since i'm using a Window Switch should I still use a WOT (or in my case TPS) switch?

 

most absolutely, Yes.
yes with a doudt,
100% for sure.
Ricky

 

Yes, the window switch just turns the nitrous on and off at a specified RPM the WOT switch will only let the nitrous engage when the throttle is open all the way. If you only do the window switch there is a chance the nitrous could start flowing before you reach WOT which could and probably will cause engine damage.

 

3/4, 5/8 or wide open throttle...it will only flow if the system is armed and the motor is at or above the engine rpm it is supposed to turn on at...i'm sure it's a bad idea to not use a WOT but do you see my logic? Why is it a problem for n20 to flow at less than WOT?

 

Scenerio with out a Full throt sw, only a window:

Lets just say you put it to the floor and bring it up to 5,000rpms, your really ripping now, then you let off the gas and get on the brake. RPMs are still high but your off the gas, nitrous would still flow.... bad. See where I'm going.
Ricky said it best, You need both for sure.
Vinny

 

Yep - no fuel flowing to the motor's injectors...still fuel and n20 flowing to the nozzle for the nitrous system is my guess...seems logical anyway.

 

Here's a little insight. Now remember this is a dry set up. I was doing some testing. and I taped the wot sw down so I could see when/if things were going correctly. Well the next weekend on the way to the track, I have my system set-up automatically on when key is on, I first noticed I could get my shifts syncroed, the rpms stayed up like I was speed shifting but wasn't. then i had to stop at bank, and when pulling out I got on it, and thought to myself, wow this bad boy is running good today. then at track doing burn out then to lights, the rpms stayed up around 5000rpm for a period of time, I am wondering what the hay. Made a crappy run, and it's still holding rpms up on return lane, I look over at my WS indicator lights and see both stages are on at a low rpm. Then it pits I realise tape is on sw, dork attack. well didn't hurt anything, but it's so unpredictable using off rpm based only, no good. I didn't hurt anything and kept on racing. Also, if your in a high gear lugging the motor you don't want spray coming on. If it was a wet kit I may have taken my intake off?
Robert

 

How much in each kit,.. And so I understand you had two kits spraying nitrous ONLY while driving around and you did not notice that?
Ricky

 

I really don't remember what the hits were, but first stg was 100rwhp and 2nd stg between 35 and 100. I didn't hit 2nd stage everytime, but when getting on it a little hard the combo of normal rising rpm and additional rising rpm from spray would kick it into the 4000rpm range and thus the 2nd stage. No I dorked out on this one, I even have bright indicator lights that flash when ever WS kicks systems on. Must have had glory fogging my mind from believing I would win my races, then I woke up on the run above after getting my azz handed to me cause car was acting strange.
Robert

 

Well thanks guys...this question just came up at lunch today during a phone call. My pal just swapped his Cobra TB to an Accufab and the bracket that NOS supplies for the 03-04 Cobra only fit his stock TB. We were brain storming and the thought occured to delete the WOT switch. Later after Vinny's post it hit me that there were simply too many scenarios where the motor would be between the WS rpm range. See i'm trying to blame a Cobra driver for this question. LOL. Anyway...I knew in my heart that both switches were necessary...just not all the reasons why. Lastly, Robert how smart is it to have your system arm with Ignition? I know you know what you are doing, but it seems like you are missing a level of safety no not have a master arm switch?
- Macon

 

Definate a combination. WOT and WS critical

 

But I do have a master arm sw, see red light sw in panel. Also, switches for everything else. Here's how it works, all switches are fed 12v switched ign that goes to relays, so leaving all sw on and use the ign as master-master sw. This way anytime I get in car, heater starts, bottle opens, noids/wss are all powered and ready. Meaning, I never have to think, is this on, that hot, power on, allways ready is my moto. I can simply reach over and still over ride by shut whatever off. I don't get caught with my pants down. Oh, by the way the two green lights are my indicators telling me that 1st and 2nd stage are activated.

Robert

 

10-4.