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optimizeing my dry kit

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Old Feb 8, 2006 | 09:49 PM
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Default optimizeing my dry kit

looking to get the best preformance out of my dry kit im running a normal 5117 nos kit with the 2 silonoids and the straight nozzels. would dropping the extra silonoid and changeing the nozzels to the 90 degree ones to better hit the mass air help in anyway or should i just stick to what i have.also should i change the filter or blow it out considering i have had run a full 15 lb bottle and never cleaned it?seems like i'm getting less hp out of the system it just doesn't put me back in my seat like it used to.
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Old Feb 8, 2006 | 09:57 PM
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Honestly man cleaning will help but a dry shot wont really give you that hit your looking for. and if your not carefull you'll blow you r motor if i was you i would take a look at the TNT systems my friend has one on his ws6 and trust me it works it makes that go go juice really go go so...
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 12:41 AM
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If you only ran 1 bottle, then that's the problem. As bottle emptys your pressure goes down and then less power. fill it back up and try again. Cleaning after one bottle should not be needed. If you want 300hp outa that kit ley me know I'll tell ya.
Robert
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 02:39 AM
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maybe you're just used to it by now,
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 02:54 AM
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SOTP is a killer
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by RedSuperSport
Honestly man cleaning will help but a dry shot wont really give you that hit your looking for. and if your not carefull you'll blow you r motor if i was you i would take a look at the TNT systems my friend has one on his ws6 and trust me it works it makes that go go juice really go go so...
That is complete BS
This myth has to vanish.
Dry will kick as hard as wet if properly tuned for it.
Keep in mind that a 100 wet is that, 100 rwhp and a 100 dry is 80 rwhp
so shoot enough dry to make 100 rwhp shot and tell me the difference

Going back to the post.
You can run your existing 5177 into a dual stage for shots up to 200, proper tuning required.
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 09:33 AM
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got a heater on that bottle?
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 02:24 PM
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i thanks for all who replyed and yes i do have a warmer on it. i know when the bottle emptys im not going to have the power i had with a full bottle but i've heard from a couple people around here that the 2 siliniods are a resriction and that i should drop one. i'm just trying to get this in good shape before the start of the season and i want to run the juice the best i can with no resrictions.bumping it up to a 125 shoot hopefully no tuneing required but i just want everything i can get out of it
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 04:40 PM
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EVO, Im with you....Its like my buddy with his hayabusa....."Its to quick to use with Nitrous" Well, two months later he has nitrous on the busa LOL. You can get use to the speed real quick....
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by RedSuperSport
Honestly man cleaning will help but a dry shot wont really give you that hit your looking for. and if your not carefull you'll blow you r motor if i was you i would take a look at the TNT systems my friend has one on his ws6 and trust me it works it makes that go go juice really go go so...

My ALL dry shot has cut 1.34 60' times ..... I'd say it hits hard.

Raced all last season on my Dry kit and the motor still looks new.


Maybe you should know a little about something before you post something stupid like that
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 11:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Mach1killerls1
i thanks for all who replyed and yes i do have a warmer on it. i know when the bottle emptys im not going to have the power i had with a full bottle but i've heard from a couple people around here that the 2 siliniods are a resriction and that i should drop one. i'm just trying to get this in good shape before the start of the season and i want to run the juice the best i can with no resrictions.bumping it up to a 125 shoot hopefully no tuneing required but i just want everything i can get out of it
The Powershot noids will support about 140rwhp running them redundant. If you split them up, one per nozzle, you'll get a easy 300rwhp or more if ya want. NOS rates them at 175hp in single config. Like was said, you may just be getting used to it, try some bigger jets? I also agree, dry can hit just as hard as wet, shorten your hose lenght from noid to nozzle and you'll see what I mean, as the longer lines act like a poor mans window switch 9takes longer for hit to be felt/realised. You can try our 400hp Pro noids we use in our dry dual nozzle kit.
Robert
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Old Feb 10, 2006 | 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Robert56
The Powershot noids will support about 140rwhp running them redundant. If you split them up, one per nozzle, you'll get a easy 300rwhp or more if ya want. NOS rates them at 175hp in single config. Like was said, you may just be getting used to it, try some bigger jets? I also agree, dry can hit just as hard as wet, shorten your hose lenght from noid to nozzle and you'll see what I mean, as the longer lines act like a poor mans window switch 9takes longer for hit to be felt/realised. You can try our 400hp Pro noids we use in our dry dual nozzle kit.
Robert
how long are the ones that come with the 5177 and how short should you get?
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Old Feb 11, 2006 | 12:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Insanekamel
how long are the ones that come with the 5177 and how short should you get?
Not sure on lenght (somewhere around 30' ?)as I had custom ones made to fit my install. Idealy, the shortest from noid to nozzle will give the hardest hit, so you'll have to decide the when/where/how.
Robert
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Old Feb 11, 2006 | 12:58 AM
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I've noticed my wet kits seem to hit harder then dry, but as long as your MAF can compensate, or your tune can compensate, I'm sure dry kits can hit hard as well.
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Old Feb 12, 2006 | 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Robert56
Not sure on lenght (somewhere around 30' ?)as I had custom ones made to fit my install. Idealy, the shortest from noid to nozzle will give the hardest hit, so you'll have to decide the when/where/how.
Robert
Mine are only 4 inches from noid to filter front plate (FIPK), noids mounted in front of latch.
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