Well, using a 5177, each solenoid running its own stage, but had them wired to go together tonight in hopes of max ET run. So, mounted the new 28x10.5x15 ET Drags on my new sexy *** Bogart Welded Floyds. In the burnout box all seemed fine, maybe a tad short on the new tire initial burnout, but whatever. Then, 4,000+/- transbrake, nitrous armed, greenlight, wow! It started to pull, then blew the ******* tires bad, spinning fiercly, got a little crooked, straightened it out, letting off. Got back on it, went even more sideways, so I coasted out the remaining portion. Checked everything out, tire pressure was a little high, 18psi warm (was 15 cold). Lowered the pressure down to 12.5psi, went back, no tire spinning in the burnout box....WTF! Then launched and it was lame. Got to the pits to discover the stock 10bolt finally said enough damn it. So, time to order up the 9", dont want to go through this bs again. I cant blame the stock rear end though, as I abuse the hell out of it, and I cant complain about it not liking 4k transbraked launches with 250 shot!
Since I have some down time I plan on unmounting everything, getting new noids, and cleaning up the wiring by using metric-pak connectors. Also thought about mounting a noid by each of the nozzle entries rather than using xxx feet of line b/w them.

Charlie

 

Well you knew the rear end was going to let loose. But damn just one 2 stage run would have been nice.Clean up and new rear end time. Now there's something i've never heard before.
Hawk

 

Sounds like fun to me Glad to see your puting my old kit to some good use
I took my 2 year old 9" apart because it was whining last year. thought it was probably a bearing but it turned out to be from wear on the ring and pinion. I took out the detroit locker switched to a spool and went from a 3.7 to a 3.5 gear. The fun never ends does it.

 

You are an animal. Your rear end hates you...

 

Hawk, one clean pass was all I was asking for out it too, told my buddies the same. If it holds one run, I'll be happy and can hang it up for a while. But no, the we wittle 10bolt dont wanna play fair

Ray, your old setup is working its *** off, if it ever had one. I had to do a trackside replumbing since I ran out of prep time at home. Only thing I have noticed is the new clear lid seems to have a fog type buildup on it, need to see if I can wipe this off or what? Not greatly worried about that, but I do need to clamp the damn MAF down, everytime I run, the damn thing flies out of the lid which isnt good, and doesnt get the full breath of nitrous-air combo.

Steve, yes my rear hates me, but its all good. Time to order in a 9" (I hate shipping to Hawaii!).

 

Damn man you're still running a maf? Go wet, get rid of that ****** and go Speed density. You'll love the increase in drivability.

Nate

 

Nate, I keep changing my options, the thought of SD has been in my head, but not quite yet. I want to accomplish what I set out with the dry, and then convert back to wet I guess. I keep looking at the Plate setups, and more interesting is the intake and TB setup Next is working up. I like the Edelbrock LSx Air Gap intake, but would like to see one with a 4150 style Accufab TB on it (or similar) with a plate and bar in b/w.

 

never had trouble with the maf poping out are you using the stock ends? I always had the stock maf. I use no maf now Be the pioneer Charlie Tune dry SD. Just jack the **** out of the enrichment then log and adjust with the wideband. Im going to be working on a dry stage with an SD tune using the enrichment for the extra fuel this year. After last year Ill never install my MAF again

 

Wish you would have got the run.Shipping to Hawaii has got to suck. Well i'll have to wait for results. I know you can throw down some great DRY #s.
Hawk

 

I got a new best mph yesterday on my little ol dry, which I'll never give up. check out our 400hp Pro noids, they otta hold ya for awhile, then get the companion pro fuel noids when you go back to wet, what, back to wet? Keep the dual stage dry and add a 3rd wet, that's what i am doing sometime. but I haven't got close to the limits of the dry yet. sorry to hear about the rearend, but suprised it lasted as long as it did.
Robert

 

Ray I seemed to have forgotten to put a clamp on the MAF to lid connection.....ooops. Once I get the rearend in etc.. I plan on going SD Dry. I think I have a system setup, and I am quite sure there wont be any problems, only issue will be having the fueling set at xx.xx afr throughout the run. Other than that, I think it will be easy.

Hawk, yeah shipping is no joke, $400 for a rearend going "truck" aka Slowboat, 6-10 days once hit leaves the port, then another 3 days once it gets here. But I have something worked out for that too

Robert, I'm sure if I get the tune worked out for a SD tune with the dry I wont be going back to wet. However, if I am lazy then I will keep the MAF and revert.

 

I still think your retarded for even trying that

 

Trying what, the Dry SD tune? I got this one in the bag, been researching different methods for months, found a cure for the common wet itch, and its not the vagisil you keep in your center console either

 

No, launching off the trans brake with a 250 shot out of your HOLE on a mighty 10 bolt

 

Well at least I knew it was going to let go and am prepared.

 

Launching off the t-brake with a 250 shot and making the pass would have made you famous!


Hawk

 

Instead I am going to have my rear in the ***** of the masses


I guess I should put the car on a dyno once the new rear gets in so I can see just how much the noids are flowing without any jets and all three lines open And while I am waiting an in-car electronic fuel pressure gauge might be nice Need to find one with playback, that would be awesome!