wet kit and dual nitrous solonoid
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From: winter springs, fl
wet kit and dual nitrous solonoid why dont wet kits generally have dual nitrous solonoids like the 5177 kit. just curious, i remember seeing a thread about it, but the damn search only goes back so far. thanks
right...the failure rate on good noids is very low these days. I personally think NOS added the extra noid to keep the cost in the range of the avg kit. An LS1 based dry kit does not need to be extravagant...so they included extras like a FPSS, blow down tube, 15lb bottle with superhighflow valve and extra noid to keep cost right around $550. Which actually wasnt bad for all that.
They may have also done it to try to quell fears of stuck open nitrous noids in conjunction with the new LS1/MAF style dry kits. It was new at the time and many didnt like the idea of relying on the maf to sense nitrous.
But basically one good noid is all you need.
They may have also done it to try to quell fears of stuck open nitrous noids in conjunction with the new LS1/MAF style dry kits. It was new at the time and many didnt like the idea of relying on the maf to sense nitrous.
But basically one good noid is all you need.
The reason wet kits don't have redundant noids is because you'll just double your chances of problems. think about a noid sticking open or closed on wet and you'll see the problems, and with two, it ups this chance. Now on a dry hit, it's just back up, NOS calls it a safety noid, think about a sticking noid on a dry or one staying open. The open one you have back up, no problems, sticking shut (either one), no problems. put those sceneros on a wet kit and problemos. Now the implication that NOS noids are are less than, I don't agree with. They work fine as a low cost noid on a lower hp hit. yes, back to back noids can be a restriction, and the NOS noids usually go to about 140rwhp, or split them up, one to each nozzle and now you can do 300hp and go dual stage if ya like. A very versitle kit, and easy to set-up and very safe. There are higher quality kits on the market, but it works fine. Don't forget to check out the PRO Dry kit, which is based on the 5177, with upgraded noids and nozzles. let me know if you have any questions on either kits.
Robert
Robert
Originally Posted by Robert56
The reason wet kits don't have redundant noids is because you'll just double your chances of problems. think about a noid sticking open or closed on wet and you'll see the problems, and with two, it ups this chance. Now on a dry hit, it's just back up, NOS calls it a safety noid, think about a sticking noid on a dry or one staying open. The open one you have back up, no problems, sticking shut (either one), no problems. put those sceneros on a wet kit and problemos. Now the implication that NOS noids are are less than, I don't agree with. They work fine as a low cost noid on a lower hp hit. yes, back to back noids can be a restriction, and the NOS noids usually go to about 140rwhp, or split them up, one to each nozzle and now you can do 300hp and go dual stage if ya like. A very versitle kit, and easy to set-up and very safe. There are higher quality kits on the market, but it works fine. Don't forget to check out the PRO Dry kit, which is based on the 5177, with upgraded noids and nozzles. let me know if you have any questions on either kits.
Robert
Robert
well...you dont want any noids sticking. But the disaster usualy occurs on a wet kit when the fuel noid fails to open. It causes a lean condition that can quickly cause engine meltdown
All other scenarios are certainly not good but usually not disasterous. If on a dry kit a noid sticks open....you will usually not know it until you let off the gas. At that point the TB closes an the majority of air/nitous that was providing the HP is now restricted. You will have a very high idle or even maybe bouncing off the limiter due to the nitrous going around the closed TB and through the idle air hole. But severe damage usually does not occur. Scare the crap out of you though.
In a wet kit the nitrous noid sticking closed...you will know right away. The car will just get a ton of extra fuel and run like total *** or atleast be slower than on motor. It may also usualy stall and backfire when you let off the throttle.
Fuel noid sticking open it will run like ***, and stall or foul out plugs after the run or if its leaking statically when you are just driving. Again...not catastrophic...but youll run like ***.
All other scenarios are certainly not good but usually not disasterous. If on a dry kit a noid sticks open....you will usually not know it until you let off the gas. At that point the TB closes an the majority of air/nitous that was providing the HP is now restricted. You will have a very high idle or even maybe bouncing off the limiter due to the nitrous going around the closed TB and through the idle air hole. But severe damage usually does not occur. Scare the crap out of you though.
In a wet kit the nitrous noid sticking closed...you will know right away. The car will just get a ton of extra fuel and run like total *** or atleast be slower than on motor. It may also usualy stall and backfire when you let off the throttle.
Fuel noid sticking open it will run like ***, and stall or foul out plugs after the run or if its leaking statically when you are just driving. Again...not catastrophic...but youll run like ***.
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cantdrv65 Well, I'll use a carb fuel backfire as an example, only because most have witnessed one, back firing out of carb because of excess fuel evn with out a n2o kit. If your n2o noid fails to open you will still be pouring in heaving unatomized fuel. Some of this fuel will be laying around in pockets in the intake. Granted, most of the time, because of higher rpms, the fuel will get pumped out the exhaust. But, not always, or all of it. Any ign source (high overlap cam, hot spot in combustion chamber, hot plug, timing, regular ign and others) can ignite fuel in intake. Then because you have no where for the rapidly expanding explosion to go, you may see an intake come apart. After this happens, shut your car off, then try to restart, it may be an expensive lesson. So a blanket statement like above, imo, is incorrect.
Robert
A N2O noid sticking closed on a wet kit hurts absolutely nothing....
Robert
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Originally Posted by Robert56
cantdrv65
Well, I'll use a carb fuel backfire as an example, only because most have witnessed one, back firing out of carb because of excess fuel evn with out a n2o kit. If your n2o noid fails to open you will still be pouring in heaving unatomized fuel. Some of this fuel will be laying around in pockets in the intake. Granted, most of the time, because of higher rpms, the fuel will get pumped out the exhaust. But, not always, or all of it. Any ign source (high overlap cam, hot spot in combustion chamber, hot plug, timing, regular ign and others) can ignite fuel in intake. Then because you have no where for the rapidly expanding explosion to go, you may see an intake come apart. After this happens, shut your car off, then try to restart, it may be an expensive lesson. So a blanket statement like above, imo, is incorrect.
Robert
Well, I'll use a carb fuel backfire as an example, only because most have witnessed one, back firing out of carb because of excess fuel evn with out a n2o kit. If your n2o noid fails to open you will still be pouring in heaving unatomized fuel. Some of this fuel will be laying around in pockets in the intake. Granted, most of the time, because of higher rpms, the fuel will get pumped out the exhaust. But, not always, or all of it. Any ign source (high overlap cam, hot spot in combustion chamber, hot plug, timing, regular ign and others) can ignite fuel in intake. Then because you have no where for the rapidly expanding explosion to go, you may see an intake come apart. After this happens, shut your car off, then try to restart, it may be an expensive lesson. So a blanket statement like above, imo, is incorrect.
Robert
It will not hurt anything upon startup as well.....should you have the highly unlikely combo of a leaking fuel noid AND N2O noid....then you might have a pop issue.
Originally Posted by cantdrv65
As I and others have posted many times before....I close my remote bottle valve then bleed off the excess N2O by activating the N2O kit, thus Im only spraying fuel. Not once have I seen a backfire, the engine just loads up a little with fuel and like 383ss posted just runs like ***. I also did this quite often to check for proper fuel noid operation....works great!
It will not hurt anything upon startup as well.....should you have the highly unlikely combo of a leaking fuel noid AND N2O noid....then you might have a pop issue.
It will not hurt anything upon startup as well.....should you have the highly unlikely combo of a leaking fuel noid AND N2O noid....then you might have a pop issue.
Robert
I also have seen many cars go very rich because of someone forgetting to turn on the bottle.LOL
The car just go rich and bogs. I have never seen a back fire caused by this...
Dave
The car just go rich and bogs. I have never seen a back fire caused by this...
Dave