Originally Posted by Robert56

Our PRO Dry was speced with dual staging in mind. Dual SS nozzles and optional dual 400hp pro noids. A very versitile and quality based kit. check it out. if you have any multi stage dry questions give me a holla, as I run this on my personal car. Matt covered the other things you need.
Robert

Originally Posted by 227Hawk

You can control a 2 stage like that by just using the arming switchs. You can turn on noid 'A' or noid 'B' or both.You only need one window switch unless you're seperating the on and off points from 'A' and 'B'
Hawk

Originally Posted by Robert56

I would use the straight shooters in the location in your pic, for your 2nd stage. Then I would use the 90* in the neck pointed towards the MAF, for 1st stage, giving a nice safe a/f. This way you'll see your richest mix from the get go, and later if it's to rich you can change one 90* for another straight that will then shoot towards center of box. However, I feel once the second stage comes on you'll be pretty close to ideal on a/f, as the straight nozzles in stock location have a tendancy to be a bit lean.

Did you find any of my threads where I described my set-up? If not I would be glad to share what I have done: dual ws, 1st gear lock out on 2nd and third stage, option to go with any combo of stages or single and stuff like that.
Robert

Originally Posted by BigDaddyZ28

Were you meaning the 'neck' of the lid or the bellows? Can you give me an idea about where in the neck to put it (distance from the front of the maf to the nozzle).
Yes, either one, you can go as close as 3inches, this is how far mine are, my 1st stage nozzles, one is a straight and one is a 90*, however, my CAI allows for the straight nozzle to shoot into the box and meet up with my 2nd stage nozzles which are both straight. Now if you single nozzle, 3inches may be a bit close depending on size of shot. This is why I like to split each stage into dual nozzles, more tuning options. Here is a pic of my quad nozzles. Currently I have it tuned for 11.2 to 11.5 on a custom fuel curve in my tune, but my base a/f was set with nozzles.


My plan was for 2 nozzles back there but if a single 90 is the best way to go for the first stage then that is what I will be doing. I was mostly planning for 2 nozzles back there (not really because I NEEDED 2 of them) because I could have made the plumbing look cooler in the end. I Figured that 2 nozzles with smaller jets in them would be equivalent to one nozzle with a big jet. Was I way off base on that idea?
I like the dual nozzle approach for tuning, and you can jet one side higher than the other, but remember, dual jets are mapped out differently than single jets, and explained in the jet stickie.

Any advice on the brand or type of safety switch/rpm switch I should be looking at for this 2 stage dry project? I understand that it will limit my 'tuneability' some, but I would prefer to run both noids off a single switch if at all possible for now (like 227Hawk described above) and come back later with another if I NEED it. I can pre-run the wires in my harness so upgrades should be a snap.
Well there are so many ws or progressive controllers on market these days, that it would be a thread on it's own. there have been a few threads as of late on this and most manufacture's explain their product, or start a new thread explaining what you want to do and you'll get a ton of info. We had a limited number of progressive controllers, but not sure if we got a new batch yet (production slow). Yes. both stages can be controlled with one unit.

Thanks for the help Robert. Your experience is priceless...
I think I missed the thread where you decribed your system. Could you give me some insight as to how you are doing this on your car? Pics? I have been to your site a few times, but not lately. Should I go look there?
I have my current system set-up for about 150rwhp shot in stage one, coming on at 3000rpm in first gear. My 2nd stage has a first gear lock-out and comes on at 4100rpm in 2nd gear (about 50rwhp). Then both stay on till end of run. I have a 3rd stage that will also be lock-out in 1st gear and will come on at 5100rpm in 2nd gear(about 50rwhp). This was done to spread out the torque and allow my stock long block to live. Actually I have a torque curve that runs just like a turbo or blower (dyno graph in my web). I also run dual ws, a seperate toggle for each stage, and a master arm sw for all my n20 gear. In my web lots of pics for insight and some info in links section.

I currently have 90's in the sides (indexed slightly up and towards the maf) but these will be coming out and getting swapped with some straight nozzles.
Once these get swapped out I will have a few 'spare' 90's I can use in the back for the first stage.

Robert, If you get time could you get me some prices so I can get this finished up and go play... Needing an 1803 Pro Noid, and 2 straight nozzle assemblies (so I can swap these in the sides of my lid). As soon as I get the rest of this hardware installed, I am going to have Matt (from HSW) hook me up with some custom plumbing and whatever safety switches that I need to get. It ought to be sweet when it's all over and done with.
Yea, Matt has some really trick hoses and plumbing options. I'll pm yea on prices.

Thanks for all the help guys. I couldn't pull this project off without you guys!
You guys are helping me save time, $$$, and possibly engines... I appreciate!
You're welcome, I also when I was first doing my dual stage picked the minds of many, this sight is a great asset.