I have a 2000 C5 coupe with an M6. It has P&P/milled LS1 heads creating 10.8:1 SCR with 2.02/1.575 vlaves, titanium valve springs, Comp cams 228/228 with .571/.571 lift at .50 with 112 lobe sep., LS6 intake manifold, ported oil pump, Vortex intake, MSD 8.5mm wires, NGK-55 plugs, LG pro series long tube headers w/ NO cats, B&B cat back, carbon fiber DS, Mcleod twin disk clutch with adjustable master and Z06 slave, and last but not least a DTE stage III rear differential with 3:90 gears......5 point bolt in roll bar coming shortly

I will be adding a nitrous system very soon and I'm set on getting 150hp system. I've been contemplating the Nitrous Direct LS1/LS6 single stage plate system (wet system). I will buy a progressive controller with built in window switch and the FPSS to be safe.

Now here is where I need some input! What am I forgetting about? Will this system be okay with my stock fuel system? I need to keep this system from blowing my motor (basically as safe as I can without compromising HP) and I'm kinda worried about my high CR.


ANY AND ALL INPUTS WELCOME..........THANKS!

 

Not a pro on the Y Body fueling, but with your current mods, I think your going well beyond the stock fuel pump. I know on a F Body those mods and a 150 shot will be starved for fuel. Either step up to a upgraded In-tank fuel pump, or get a dedicated fuel cell for the nitrous, which will let you run race gas in it and pump gas in the cars stock tank.

 

Even with a wet shot? I thought wet shots were better on the fuel pump.

And Robert56 was talking to me about a Kenne Belle boosta pump with will give me up to 50% more fuel pressure.

I really want a safe setup, but dread having to replace my fuel pump. It such a pain in the *** to get too.

 

You should change the pump, a lot of work but it's worth it in the long run.

 

your pump is already 6 years old. Do you feel lucky???
Dont shortcut now upgrade the pump.
Good luck

 

You just need a pump, its not that diffcult to do.

 

Wet shots make up for the injectors, your on the right track, but different race. Dry kits need larger injectors to allow the PCM to send in xxx hp shot worth of extra fuel. Wet kits either tap off the factory fuel system and thus run more chance leaning out once you surpass the fuel pump capacity. Or, as mentioned, you go dedicated fuel system and keep your stock pump, stock rails, stock injectors etc and run the hell out of it. If your concerned about absolute longevity, I would really consider the dedicated fuel system.

 

Upgrade the pump, you don't want to feel like I do right now (blown engine from nitrous).

Roy

 

Jon, the KB bap is fairly good at increasing the volume/pressure of stock or aftermarket pump. Our stock Walbros are good to about 550hp, with many going to over 600hp. Now here is the real problem, supply, meaning with the return at the tank, under heavy load the pressure will drop off, not good with a nitrous shot. Even with a new pump, this problem remains, and is a big reason guys get lean spikes. I have the return/regulator at the rails conversion and KB bap coming for my car, good for 700hp. Now my pump only has 13k on it so I'll keep it for now. It's a call only you can make if you want to upgrade your pump. It's really not that hard, no dropping tank.
On the bap boosting fuel pressure would be for a dry hit (a tuning aid), and staying about 60psi for a wet hit, and will remain at 60psi under load. If you boost pressure with a wet hit it'll really go rich, and your allready adding fuel through the wet jet.
Robert

 

Robert, this is CAT3, where did you get your rail return conversion? I think after my last race I really need to do that Not wanting 8 more melted plugs... I was looking at piece mealing it together, but if there is a kit available from a sponsor I'm all for it.

 

Cat, I got mine from a fellow vette owner. Here is a couple threads on this.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=739059
http://www.pfyc.com/store/merchant.m...y_Code=VTUNDER
http://photos.strasser.us/gallery2/m...g2_itemId=7882
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...49&forum_id=86
Robert

 

Robert, damn it those are easier looking setups. I just need to get off my ***, add a fuel feed line, then place a regulator up front, using the stock feed as return like so many before me...ugh.. I thought this was a "kit" to order and viloa. Thanks though, motivated me to get this one little aspect done.

 

How hard is it to upgrade my fuel pump? And what exactly needs to be done to swap it out?

I was under the impression that I needed to get into the fuel tanks to swap it out and since the Vette has 2 tanks and a pump to keep the tanks equal that it would be a huge PITA!!

 

Why did your motor blow? Did you have a Fuel pressure safety switch? Or a window switch?

I would really appreciate it if you told me what happened so i can do my best to avoid it.

Thanks for the post.

 

My mods....thunder racing 220/220 cam, longtubes, weiand intake,85mm mass air sensor,ported throttle body, fasttoys ram air, and a racetronix fuel pump. New rods pistons, and had the crank turned. Is it safe to run a 150 shot on this thing? I tried it twice, and the car ran fine, but it ran kinda hard,(the rearend) took the hundred shot well, but would i be pushin it if i keep runnin the 150? 6.84 on the 150 through the 1/8 mile.

 

A & A, or Racetronics has a step by step on this, IIRC.
Robert

 

Can someone point me to the site where the installation instructions are? I did a yahoo search and couldn't find anything.

 

RaceTronix doesnt have instructions on their website, you'll have to e-mail em