Window Switch Help
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Launching!
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From: brandon
Window Switch Help ok here is the problem. Its a trick window switch .
before some races tonight i was messin with my window switch to try to get it to turn on at a lower rpm. Well that led to me not being able to use my nitrous, it somehow locked all stages....... . and when i went into the PRO mode after messin with it, it would spray nitrous into the filter on its own, but it was armed.....again.... and it also started to make a humming noise by the fuses.......
HELP?
TIA
ROSS
before some races tonight i was messin with my window switch to try to get it to turn on at a lower rpm. Well that led to me not being able to use my nitrous, it somehow locked all stages....... . and when i went into the PRO mode after messin with it, it would spray nitrous into the filter on its own, but it was armed.....again.... and it also started to make a humming noise by the fuses.......
HELP?
TIA
ROSS
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From: Wichita Falls, TX
Originally Posted by rosm187
ok here is the problem. Its a trick window switch .
before some races tonight i was messin with my window switch to try to get it to turn on at a lower rpm. Well that led to me not being able to use my nitrous, it somehow locked all stages....... . and when i went into the PRO mode after messin with it, it would spray nitrous into the filter on its own, but it was armed.....again.... and it also started to make a humming noise by the fuses.......
HELP?
TIA
ROSS
before some races tonight i was messin with my window switch to try to get it to turn on at a lower rpm. Well that led to me not being able to use my nitrous, it somehow locked all stages....... . and when i went into the PRO mode after messin with it, it would spray nitrous into the filter on its own, but it was armed.....again.... and it also started to make a humming noise by the fuses.......
HELP?
TIA
ROSS
Ricky
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Launching!
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From: brandon
was on the phone with ryan at revxtreme, and reset the whole thing, the throttle voltage and all. went through at the stages. still wont kick in.......
bottle is open, its armed.......idk. could a solenoid of failed? fuse blown? im waiting for another call back to see what he has to say. The humming is no longer there. everything seems in line, i just dont want to have to drive another 1000 miles roadtrip to get my set-up fixed.
thx though ricky
bottle is open, its armed.......idk. could a solenoid of failed? fuse blown? im waiting for another call back to see what he has to say. The humming is no longer there. everything seems in line, i just dont want to have to drive another 1000 miles roadtrip to get my set-up fixed.
thx though ricky
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From: Wichita Falls, TX
So when you arm the system you see 000.
Where are you connecting your tach wire. at the coil would be 00, at the computer not sure I do not think its 04 or 08.
Did you do the rpm test to make sure it is correct. push the 1 button ( i think that was it. if nothing happens push #2 button.) while running should display the rpm the box is seeing. This confirms the #1 set up is correct. The rest looks good.
Ricky
Where are you connecting your tach wire. at the coil would be 00, at the computer not sure I do not think its 04 or 08.
Did you do the rpm test to make sure it is correct. push the 1 button ( i think that was it. if nothing happens push #2 button.) while running should display the rpm the box is seeing. This confirms the #1 set up is correct. The rest looks good.
Ricky
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Launching!
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From: brandon
ok i just did the rpm test ( it was # 1 ) and at idle it read .06-.08 so its workin there. your saying that the 1.04 should be a 1.08? its a 2004 gto if that comes into play at all. thanks for your help any further insight?
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From: Wichita Falls, TX
Ok if the rev it up to around 2500 and you should see 25 if you do your good on the rpm setting.
Need to check the output wire, take a test like one side to hot the other to the yellow or orange wire which ever youare using. Set the low rpm to 1000 rev the car and see if your test light turns on if it does the switch is fine.
Ricky
Need to check the output wire, take a test like one side to hot the other to the yellow or orange wire which ever youare using. Set the low rpm to 1000 rev the car and see if your test light turns on if it does the switch is fine.
Ricky
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Launching!
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From: brandon
ok im a complete newb but i wanna try to do this cause its my only hope left that i see.
i dont know which wire is the output, im using the yellow, where should the other end of the output wire be?
sorry but its a little over my head, but im getting there
i dont know which wire is the output, im using the yellow, where should the other end of the output wire be?
sorry but its a little over my head, but im getting there
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From: Wichita Falls, TX
Originally Posted by rosm187
ok im a complete newb but i wanna try to do this cause its my only hope left that i see.
i dont know which wire is the output, im using the yellow, where should the other end of the output wire be?
sorry but its a little over my head, but im getting there
i dont know which wire is the output, im using the yellow, where should the other end of the output wire be?
sorry but its a little over my head, but im getting there
Ok lets begin from the beginning. your yellow and orange wires are GROUND Outputs and go to the nitrous systems relay. So set the controller to turn on at a low rpm say 1000 and off at 1400rpm, make sure gear lock out is at "0". Make sure you remove the main hot wire going to your relay, it should be connected at the battery.. OK with all that done lets test that yellow wire. Take your test light and attach the clamp to the battery power terminal or any know 12volt source. Start the car and rev the enigne to your low side set point, with the other end of your test light back probe the relay base where the yellow wire connects to. making sure to touch the metal terminal with the probe. This will confirm the switch is working and keep rev to the off point and the light should turn off.
Ricky