Direct port ?'s
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From: Jupiter, Florida
Direct port ?'s Do you think that I would be safe running a cold fusion direct port kit with a 200 shot on my D.D. ? I would run a dedicated fuel system and a progressive controller and all the necessayr supplies. I would only spray once a month on the track only for about two runs. So the car wouldn't be sprayed all the time like most of you think it would be. 
It would only be for a few months till I forged but I think I would be ok doing this but I just wanted to get all your input. Thanks for the help in advance. Gregg.
It would only be for a few months till I forged but I think I would be ok doing this but I just wanted to get all your input. Thanks for the help in advance. Gregg. Yes you could. however, the tune will need to be right on. Only you can make the choice of this size hit on your dd, as you may be pushing it. If it's your only ride, maybe a smaller hit would be in order?
Robert
Robert
Why push the limits if your worried? If you cant pay, dont play! I had the same deisres before, and I successfully shot 220, 175 and all that. Do I think its safe, no I dont. If the tune has a error, the octane isnt right, or gee the catastrophy if a solenoid gets dirty, stuck etc is only going to be worse. So many things to have happen that as Robert said, you are your best source for advice. I say if you cant afford to have it pop #7 cylinder ring lands, dont spray it with 200. But, if you do, and you use all the safety hardware, including plugs, race gas, tuning, fpss, ws, pro-controller, heater, etc etc.. then I think you'd be just as quick as running a less conservative 150 shot. But thats me. GL
Charlie
Charlie
Originally Posted by rmitchell242
what kind of tune do you go for if on a direct port if you are spraying fuel and nitrous? are you mainly retarding timing?
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Originally Posted by rmitchell242
In this type of set up you would almost need 2 tunes one for motor and one for spray? the map sensor would not pick up the spray would it?
assuming you wanted max power out of the motor sometimes
assuming you wanted max power out of the motor sometimes
I tuned my wet kit for NA and then just sprayed on top of it with the right fuel jet to get me the desired AFR.
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Verdad Gallardo Oh I see. You would need to pull a little timing on a 200 shot in order to keep it safe. They have a device out that will adjust the timimg for when you are spraying. I dont remember who makes it though. I am sure a sponsor will see this and let you know.
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Originally Posted by brad8266
Oh I see. You would need to pull a little timing on a 200 shot in order to keep it safe. They have a device out that will adjust the timimg for when you are spraying. I dont remember who makes it though. I am sure a sponsor will see this and let you know.
Another way to tune the timing, is this...
Reduce the advance a couple *'s up til .76 g/sec, which is were most NA applications will max out airflow wise (if yours is higher like .80 then go to that amount). Now, after that go ahead and reduce timing from .80+ g/sec through the remaining table. I have done this and it works very well. Reason is, while on the juice, your at WOT. At WOT your pulling that "x" amount of air naturally, so when you hit the spray that amount is normally surpassed so very quickly. I think in my logging, looking back at histograms and table, it see's less than .76 for a not even 3 frames, so less than a second.
Anyway, thats how I've handled the timing aspect. Then on wet, as Brad mentioned jet changes, fuel jets seem to change a larger amount than nitrous jets, but also the remember the bottle pressure will effect the AFR. If you adjust your jets for say 12:1 afr @ 800psi and then you hook a heater up and have it at 1100psi like I run, you'll lean out to something like 13:1. Yes there is a calculator around somewhere that shows the difference in psi vs AFR but too tired. GL
Charlie
Reduce the advance a couple *'s up til .76 g/sec, which is were most NA applications will max out airflow wise (if yours is higher like .80 then go to that amount). Now, after that go ahead and reduce timing from .80+ g/sec through the remaining table. I have done this and it works very well. Reason is, while on the juice, your at WOT. At WOT your pulling that "x" amount of air naturally, so when you hit the spray that amount is normally surpassed so very quickly. I think in my logging, looking back at histograms and table, it see's less than .76 for a not even 3 frames, so less than a second.
Anyway, thats how I've handled the timing aspect. Then on wet, as Brad mentioned jet changes, fuel jets seem to change a larger amount than nitrous jets, but also the remember the bottle pressure will effect the AFR. If you adjust your jets for say 12:1 afr @ 800psi and then you hook a heater up and have it at 1100psi like I run, you'll lean out to something like 13:1. Yes there is a calculator around somewhere that shows the difference in psi vs AFR but too tired. GL
Charlie
You will want to if it was advanced any. For that you could run a LS1 Timing Tuner to pull timing only when you spray or you could run a higher grade fuel when the nitrous is activated to compensate for the additional timing.
Matt
Matt
Originally Posted by rmitchell242
i understand that idea that you do not need to tune for fuel but i was under the impression that you want to run less timing when spraying and my car loves timing on motor. Right now on my dry shot i think i am retarding 7*
is it cool to run 28* on a direct port? 200 shot
is it cool to run 28* on a direct port? 200 shot