I am going to race the car this weekend and I have just installed my 50-125hp wet kit and a 3000rpm stall.

What rpm do I set the msd digital window switch at?

At the moment I have it set at 3,000rpm and out at 5,700rpm

But I just read a post saying it should not be set lower than the stall and my TC will stall higher with spray!

So what do you guys do?

I don't want to break anything as it's my DD!

I have only sprayed 50 so far on the street and I have just filled the bottle ready for this weekends racing.

I only intend to spray at the track as it's $100 to fill a 10lb bottle and it don't last long!

Maybe I forgot to point out I'm in the UK They don't call this rip off Britain for nothing!

 

HOLY CRAP!!!!!!!

100$ to fill a 10 pound bottle?

it cost me 30$ to fill mine.

 

yeah really, $100??? you got ripped off. $4.25 per pound where i get it.

 

Yes sorry Guys I forgot to add I'm from the Uk.
£6 per pound 10lbs = £60 ($100)

Expensive stuff in the UK! that's why it's Track only!

 

Anyone running a stall with spray?

what rpm do you spray at?

 

I don't have a LS1, but I had nitrous w/ a 3600rpm stall in my truck.

I sprayed at 2000rpm, it'll flash the convertor higher (flashed to 4100 rpm) and give you more of a torque spike.

Now I'm not sure if the 4L60e would take it or not.

 

Yes thanks foxspy I think that would mean toast for my 4L60E

Remember these lightweight 4th gen cars are not built like the true 454 BBC muscle car blocks and TH400 and TH350's

And the 10 bolt!

 

well i have a 3200 stall and i sprayed at 3000, but now since i read ur post, ill bump it up to 3500 and off at 5800!

 

Sorry I didn't mean to scare anyone, it's just that I read a post that said you should not spray below your stall speed unless you want to break something and this was from a guy who runs 10's with spray!

I will see if i can find it!

https://ls1tech.com/forums/nitrous-oxide/496628-right-rpm-window-switch-3200-stall.html

 

Personally I don't believe things will break because you spray below your converters lock up. I think things can break due to the tq spike when using nitrous and if your parts are not built for the increase tq spike it can break.

 

I have only test run a 50hp shot on the street so far about 4 times and that was just before I did my stall.

I sprayed at 3,000rpm to 5,800rpm and it worked fine kicked in like a turbo when I hit 3,000rpm.

So I have not run Nitrous with the stall yet!

Do you think I will be ok sticking with 3,000rpm or should I go higher say 4,000rpm?

 

I went with the 3,000rpm and 5,800rpm settings in the end, I did a test on the road with a 75 shot for a 1/4mile with Gtech I know it's not spot on accurate but it's with .2 for E/t and +5mph(I tested it against the tracks timing)

I got 12.59@115 I think it would be 12.8@110 at the track.

When I got to the track my Nitrous solonoid decided to play up so I had five runs motor only with a best of 13.36@102mph 1.94 best 60ft on street tires.

I will have to wait a while for my track Nitrous times until I go racing again next month. I have changed the faulty solonoid.

I may have my LT's installed by then!

 

i ran a 12.7@113 at the track fwiw. lid and cutout spraying from 3600-5600rpm, on 245 street tires. with dr's and 3k-5800, its 11s, you should hit low 12s/high 11's if you can get traction with that stall, do you have any drag radials?

 

I don't yet, I am planning on getting some next month need a bit more money yet, DR's are expensive in the UK 245/45 17 Nittos to fit my present rims are £320 ($570) a pair!

What's fwiw?

 

Means "for what its worth"

 

I did the headers install today at my buddies workshop using a proper 2 post ramp and an air racket. It went very well and I can't believe how much easier the job was with the proper facilities. The install guide I down loaded said 5-12 hours using car ramps and axle stands at home.

We di it in 3 1/2 hours and test drive aftrewards perfect, no exhaust leaks or Y pipe touching under the car also no ground clearence issues.

Funny thing my car sounds exactly the same as it did before. I have a quietnes pack on the exahust with a single outlet. I could feel the car feels more responsive in the mid range. I have a twin outlet exhaust to fit yet.

I now need to get back to the track to see how this beast performs!

 

this question has been addressed numerous times-

if you are going to spray a 125 shot, out of the hole, then you are going to need alot of tire (at least mt drag radials, or a et. street or slick) and alot of drivetrain to keep the car together.


my stall speed is 3800- it flashes right there on motor. i have my window switch set to 3900 rpms. i launch it the same as i do on motor, and about 5 feet after i launch the spray hits nice and hard . it has gone 1.55 but will usually be high 1.5's or low 1.6's doing this.



personal advice= set it to about 4000 rpms, you'll be able to get out of the hole nice and easy on motor, then the spray will hit and you'll see if you can keep traction. you can always progressively lower it to see how close you can get it to the stall speed, but if you have it hit below the stall speed i say you either loose traction or break something.

 

Thanks for that Sleeperstyle. I will give that a try.

I also now need to do a few more runs just on the motor to see if I can hit the 12's without spray. The SLP LT's should knock off a few tenths at least!

Sleeper that's an excellent 1/4 time your running 10's, do you still have a stock rear axle or have you beefed it up at all?

 

studded/girdled.

 

Exactly what I was thinking of doing at some point, another mod to add to my list. Cheers Andy