FJO install question!
FJO install question! Finishing the install and have a question in regards to the red wire on the nitrous kit relay. With the FJO mini controller I'm activating the kit so no WOT switch is used. When the switch is activated the relay will be hot and powering the noids. Current draw won't be there until the FJO grounds the noids, but is this correct for the relay to be hot the whole time the kit is armed? Only way I see to hook it up, but all the diagrams have a WOT switch in it.
John
John
I'm thinking the Nitrous Kit relay would only be "hot" when you are Armed, and whatever other criteria are met (window switch, push button etc.).
I'm under the impression that the FJO unit itself is one circuit and the driver portion that controls the noids is what ultimately is on or off based on your criteria to turn-on the solonoids.
I'm under the impression that the FJO unit itself is one circuit and the driver portion that controls the noids is what ultimately is on or off based on your criteria to turn-on the solonoids.
Right, the relay will be hot after I arm the system. The FJO will then activate the noids after the TPS voltage is met, the RPM requirement is met, and it completes the ground on the noids. I just wanted to make sure have the red wire from the relay going straight to the activation switch allowing it power the whole time the system is armed not just when the system is spraying as it would with a WOT switch is OK.
John
John
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From: Wichita Falls, TX
The relay will be triggered and have the contacts closed. Power or 12volts will be at the noids but thats it. The only amp draw at this time is the relay coil only, and you could leave that on all night if you wanted.
Once the box trigger critiera are met then the noids can find ground and you will have a higher amp draw. MAX run time is 20 seconds.
Hope this helps
Ricky
Once the box trigger critiera are met then the noids can find ground and you will have a higher amp draw. MAX run time is 20 seconds.
Hope this helps
Ricky
I'm having trouble with my fjo as well, all wiring has been triple checked, rpm and wot are working correctly by the LED light indicators on the controller. I set my rpm at 1000, hooked up my test light neg wire clipped on the fjo controler on the blue solenoid wire. Armed the switch, started the car, brought the car to wot and over 1000 rpms, which meets all fjo criteria, but my test light doesn't light up at that moment, which it should because the test light is sitting on the positive battery and clipped onto the fjo blue solenoid wire for the neg side. Any help would be appreciated. thanks
tim
tim
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From: Wichita Falls, TX
Originally Posted by Jauch
I'm having trouble with my fjo as well, all wiring has been triple checked, rpm and wot are working correctly by the LED light indicators on the controller. I set my rpm at 1000, hooked up my test light neg wire clipped on the fjo controler on the blue solenoid wire. Armed the switch, started the car, brought the car to wot and over 1000 rpms, which meets all fjo criteria, but my test light doesn't light up at that moment, which it should because the test light is sitting on the positive battery and clipped onto the fjo blue solenoid wire for the neg side. Any help would be appreciated. thanks
tim
tim
We'll get it straighten out for you.
Ricky
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Verdad Gallardo ok, the fjo is working just fine. Turned off the first gear lock out, it fixed my testing problem. But now I took it out to test, I could tell it kicked off a little not enough for SOTP feel, but after a couple of sec it bogs the motor then , my check engine light came on and the check trac ctrl and check act handling came on and stayed on until i got back to the house. The motor ran just fine going home. Turned off the car and restarted all is well, no check engine lights or anything, all seems strong. The bottle pressure was only at 800, so was it that the motor was just getting to much fuel and not enough N2o due to the low bottle pressure?
