I have a couple question about wiring nitrous. I have looked at the sticky's up top and i think i found a diagram that will work. Here is my setup it is a NX kit with a purge, bottle heater, and a push button stitch to activate the nitrous and switches for arming, purge and the heater. will this diagram work?

http://i73.imagethrust.com/images/1V...h-a-relay.html ( last one on the first page of the wiring sticky)

So on the relay the
30 - Ground
86 - as the arming and replace the WOT switch with a push button
87 - to the solenoids

Where would i put the Purge and the heater? and can i put a switch somewhere in the wiring of the purge and heater to turn it on/off and purge?

Any advice will be help full if you could reply and tell me if i am wrong or right and what else i need to do.

Thanks Brett

 

just wondering why you're replacing the WOT with a push button activation switch

 

Leave the wot sw and just put your activation button inline on 86 or 85. that way you can still choose to activate when you want, but only at wot, which is the correct way to go.
Purge and heater are seperate wiring schematics. the only thing you would use in common would be the 12v switched power source going to your system arm sw. Meaning, a arming sw, relay and fuse for each (purge and heater). Some do not use a relay for the purge, but for ultimate safety I would/do.
Is your mallory wiring shematic in the stickies?
Robert

 

i am replacing the WOT switch b/c i would rather engage it when ever i want when i am at wot. yes the mallory wiring shematic is in the stickies it is the last one on the first page of the wiring sticky. Could you tell me how to wire the purge and bottle heater with a relay? i cant find it anywhere where it tells you to wire it to the certain numbers.
Would i just wire 87 to the puge and bottle heater instead of the solenoids?
In theory i should have 3 relays one for nitrous, purge and heater?

 

Here ya go,
#86 should have your 12 switched ign source from your arming switch. This can be considered "low amp in".
#85 will be your "low amp out" or ground. 85/86 lugs is your current to activate contacts inside relay so high amp load can go to purge or heater.
#30 will come directly from battery will be "high amp in" source. use 12 or 14 gauge wire and add a fuse of appropiate amp rating for your product.
#87 will be your "high amp out", going to your purge or heater then purge/heater will need to be grounded.

The reason to use relays, and mount them in your engine bay, is to keep the high amperage wires out of interior. The main noids could be as high as 30+ amps, the purge 20amps and heater 25/30 amps. Now your switched 12v ign source will only be carring a few milla amps combined from all three of above, and that will not even equal 1 amp. So you see, the safety of doing it this way. also, you will not melt down any of the cheap toggle switches that can not handle the amps, and resulting interior fire. I have a total of 7-relays in my system and all mounted near the battery in engine compartment. hope this helps. You may allready know some of this, but just posting it all so those reading can follow if they don't know.
Robert

 

Thank you i appreciate it. I see what you mean on the wot switch i will end up keeping it.
Brett

 

Do you guys recommend me use a seperate relay for the bottle heater and purge? I have a TNT F1 plate kit with a ZEX bottle heater and TNT purge.

BTW, I have the fuel solenoid ground under the bolt sitting on the fuel rail where the bracket is, same with the nitrous solenoid...Can I put my purge ground above or below that other ground, or should I put a seperate place?

 

I have a seperate relay for the bottle heater and purge because they came that way, but for safety I would probably use different relays.

I don't see any issues with sharing grounds, I did.

 

Common ground, no problem, that's the way it works as long as you are on good metal, like frame or whatever. Some purge noids are so small in amperage, you could go without a relay, but I would not.
Robert

 

I am on the intake manifold. Is that a good metal to use as a ground? I see a lot of people using it as a ground *Keep in mind I have an LT1*.

Do you guys recommend a purge and bottle heater having its own relay, or do you guys think I'll be fine putting those 2 on 1 relay?

 

I have used the ground on the manifold for noids before and it was fine.

I would use seperate relays cause you would not be able to control them seperatly. Meaning, turn your heater on and your purge will be on also, makes for a short bottle fill.
Robert

 

I still don't know how I should wire the bottle heater. It's getting chilly out, so my bottle is now at about 700 PSI instead of 1,000 like it used to be. Any ideas? A wiring diagram would help the most! I'm not sure which kind of relay to get, or how to "add" a fuse etc.

 

take this link and place the heater where the solenoids are and #85 on the relay as the ground. you can ignore the WOT switch. You will need another relay for the heater.

http://i73.imagethrust.com/images/1V...h-a-relay.html

 

We have wiring schematics on our site in my sig.
Robert