Wiring Question? please help
http://i73.imagethrust.com/images/1V...h-a-relay.html ( last one on the first page of the wiring sticky)
So on the relay the
30 - Ground
86 - as the arming and replace the WOT switch with a push button
87 - to the solenoids
Where would i put the Purge and the heater? and can i put a switch somewhere in the wiring of the purge and heater to turn it on/off and purge?
Any advice will be help full if you could reply and tell me if i am wrong or right and what else i need to do.
Thanks Brett
Purge and heater are seperate wiring schematics. the only thing you would use in common would be the 12v switched power source going to your system arm sw. Meaning, a arming sw, relay and fuse for each (purge and heater). Some do not use a relay for the purge, but for ultimate safety I would/do.
Is your mallory wiring shematic in the stickies?
Robert
Would i just wire 87 to the puge and bottle heater instead of the solenoids?
In theory i should have 3 relays one for nitrous, purge and heater?
You said it, at wot only. So why not leave the wot sw for safety, and use a arm sw also? That's what I was talking about. You don'r want to be hitting your button crusing down the road when your motor is lugging (say good by motor). Ther is a reason that every single kit on the market comes with a wot sw or a tps.
yes the mallory wiring shematic is in the stickies it is the last one on the first page of the wiring sticky. Could you tell me how to wire the purge and bottle heater with a relay? i cant find it anywhere where it tells you to wire it to the certain numbers.
Would i just wire 87 to the puge and bottle heater instead of the solenoids?
In theory i should have 3 relays one for nitrous, purge and heater?
#86 should have your 12 switched ign source from your arming switch. This can be considered "low amp in".
#85 will be your "low amp out" or ground. 85/86 lugs is your current to activate contacts inside relay so high amp load can go to purge or heater.
#30 will come directly from battery will be "high amp in" source. use 12 or 14 gauge wire and add a fuse of appropiate amp rating for your product.
#87 will be your "high amp out", going to your purge or heater then purge/heater will need to be grounded.
The reason to use relays, and mount them in your engine bay, is to keep the high amperage wires out of interior. The main noids could be as high as 30+ amps, the purge 20amps and heater 25/30 amps. Now your switched 12v ign source will only be carring a few milla amps combined from all three of above, and that will not even equal 1 amp. So you see, the safety of doing it this way. also, you will not melt down any of the cheap toggle switches that can not handle the amps, and resulting interior fire. I have a total of 7-relays in my system and all mounted near the battery in engine compartment. hope this helps. You may allready know some of this, but just posting it all so those reading can follow if they don't know.
Robert
BTW, I have the fuel solenoid ground under the bolt sitting on the fuel rail where the bracket is, same with the nitrous solenoid...Can I put my purge ground above or below that other ground, or should I put a seperate place?
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Robert
Robert
I am on the intake manifold. Is that a good metal to use as a ground? I see a lot of people using it as a ground *Keep in mind I have an LT1*.
Do you guys recommend a purge and bottle heater having its own relay, or do you guys think I'll be fine putting those 2 on 1 relay?
Do you guys recommend a purge and bottle heater having its own relay, or do you guys think I'll be fine putting those 2 on 1 relay?
I would use seperate relays cause you would not be able to control them seperatly. Meaning, turn your heater on and your purge will be on also, makes for a short bottle fill.
Robert
http://i73.imagethrust.com/images/1V...h-a-relay.html
Robert

