i have a 98 m6 ss, i am wanting to spray the car with a 100 shot. what would be the safest setup to use...... totally new to nitrous......

 

Doesn't really matter if it's "wet" or "dry", just make sure you get a quality kit from a reputable vendor. Try this thread. Hope this helps.

Jim C.

 

I'd do a wet shot, with a WOT switch, window switch, and fuel pressure safety switch. Get some NGK TR6 plugs, and to be safe get a bigger fuel pump. That'll be the "safest" way. Nitrous is never 100% safe though.

 

at 100 do either. i went dry. wet is great as well, usually a little more moola, but not by much. And as termin8r said a FPSS, window switch, TR6s, and maybe a fuel pump would be a good idea. And the same thing i tell everyone just starting, STICK WITH THE VENDORS! they have awesome customer support and its not like theyre hard to find . i went with HSW and had awesome support/service the entire time. Happy spraying man!

 

Safest without a shadow of doubt would be a dry shot. We have base dry kits as does all the vendors, but we also have the PRO Dry kit a fav and very complete, has everything needed for install, except window sw. It's quality and value based. Check my web site for write up in links The Colonels Tech files, should give some insight on the wet vs dry.
Robert

 

If you want a safe set up take a hard look at an FJO 2 channel wideband. It is not cheap but it has a built in TPS switch and a window switch. Pop your motor one time and you will think this wide band would have been the best money you ever could have spent.

The best part is it can be easily set up so it will shut the solenoids off if the engine gets too rich or more importantly too lean. You can choose the AFR pionts where it will shut the solenoids off. I used a fuel pressure safety switch because I already had it but with this wide band you probably do not need one. The only thing this will not protect you from is a nitrous solenoid that sticks open. But If you get a quality system, a good nitrous filter and periodicly maintainence your solenoids you should be fine.
A lot of good vendors here.

 

One additional thing, on a dry, if the n2o solinoid sticks open you'll know right away as rpm's will climb. It will be adding fuel at this time also, so just shut the arm sw off and wholla, no problemo's. If it sticks shut, once again no problemos, just no go. Now both scenerios will be a little less desiable on a wet shot, and with the swollen plunger issue on the fuel noids, well... On a dry you only need a FPSS, however, if going wet, what Terry has suggested is a very sweet set-up, which we do offer. But you asked what was the safest and I felt to be honest the dry needed to be high lighted, rather than the more money making wet kit and add ons.
Robert

 

I know Robert is a big fan of the dry systems and he is very knowledgeable. I have come to the conclusion that spraying through the MAF works but it is not foolproof. As I understand some have trouble getting consistent air fuel ratios with dry set ups.

Robert: What is your opinion about the FJO wide band making the dry set up even safer than you say it is?

If something goes wrong on a dry system I'm not sure you can get be sure you can get the arm switch shut off fast enough to be sure you won't hurt the motor

 

The safest set up

LINK


http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/inde...b-9f6cfa8c84a9

I run that with the Wide open throttle switch and a digital window switch

 

Sure it wouldn't hurt, however, a cheaper way and the reason for running redundant noids on a dry. Actually the second n2o noid is called the safety noid, just incase the first noid sticks open, fail safe.
Here's a little story. I was working/testing my dual stg, so I had the wot sw taped open so as to see it spray at correct rpm. Well when i got done and everything checked out, I was ready for racing. On race day as i was leaving the bank, the car took off like a bat out of hell. I thought to myself man this running good today. I also noticed driving to the track that everytime I shifted the rpms would stay high, like I was speed shifting, I thought hmmm, better get my shifting down or I might not run a good time since the car is running so good. At the track, I do a burn out and try to come to the lights but my rpms weren't coming down like they should, i bogger up the launch and go for it anyway. On the return trip it's hauling azz, then I look down and realize my n2o activation light is on, then goes off as I decelerate, hmmm Back in the pits i realize the wot sw is still tapped. Caused no problems/issues/damage except ot my pride. I should have known the rise in rpms was an indicator, and because fuel was also being added through the maf everytime I was over 3000rpm i was spraying, hehehehe. Now that scenero with out a ws might be a little different. But a dry with redundant noids and a fpss is a very fool proof and safe set-up. But, the FJO would be icing on the cake for many reasons if you have the $$.
Robert

 

Please post your pics in the wanted c5/Z06 nitrous pics thread under my name in search.
Robert