00Vette

iTrader: (4)

First off, I have Dave's wet plate kit with the NX lightning silinoids on a 2000 C5. The corvette has all the bolt ons and an upgraded racetronix fuel pump.

Well this was my first time spraying this system and I decided to only spray 100hp shot. So I went to the local 1/4 mile strip last night and car runs consistant 12.0's-12.2's at 117-118mph. Well I ran a few on motor and the car was running great.

Then I turned the bottle on and the pressure was about 1050 in the bottle. The NX purge noid I have won't open if there is too much pressure behind it. Its getting replaced today BTW!! Anyway, so I figured the purge noid should have no impact on the nitrous spraying. I ran my first run and the run produced no bbetter ET except I ran about 2 mph quicker. I ran a 12.10 at 120mph.

So I was pretty pissed off. I came back to the pits and removed the bottle. I lowered the bottle pressure to around 900psi and the purge would work. So I went for my second run. The p[urge worked great but the result was the same. I ran a 12.08 at 120mph.

So I took the fuel and nitrous lines off of the plate to check if they were spraying. I held a rag over the fuel line and held the nitrous line in the air while my wife held down the WOTswitch under the gas pedal and revved the engine above 300rpms. Both the fuel line and nitrous line sprayed! But the nitrous line sprayed in spurts! It wasn't a consistant stream on nitrous and my bottle was pretty much full!

I figured since the lines sprayed that I'd give it another go and see if I could get it to work this time. I ran again and nothing. I hit the staging lanes and focused on all the elements to make it spray! NOT THE RUN!!! I focuses on ensuring the gas pedal was WOT and that the arm switch was on. I even double checked to see if the bottle valve was opened. Well that run produced a 12.3X at 120mph.

So you can see that the mph increased slightly, but the ET just didn't move! Not to mention that I heard you should be able to feel the nirous quite a bit.

Can anyone help me out??? Has anyone encountered anything like this before???

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

What window switch are you using?
I was having an issue getting my system to work as well. It was the BMN window switch. I have the NO controller from Dave now, works great and is using all the same feeds the BMN had.

Hocky

iTrader: (5)

You most likely have a wiring problem somewhere. Loose connection, inadequate ground, or inadequate power.

next

iTrader: (9)

I agree with above. My bet is a faulty ground.

00Vette

iTrader: (4)

I have the trick window switch.

00Vette

iTrader: (4)

I'll go over the power and ground! But how do I know if its adequete?

I have a current tester where the light lights up if it hit a good ground or power source! Should that be fine to check what you guys are talking about?

NXRICKY

iTrader: (1)

IF the noid clicked in the pitts, and the nitrous was coming out in spirts, and the fuel was clean, sounds like a flapper in the hose maybe. That should give you a surging or make the system run really rich.
What jet pattern are you running?
Check all set points, WOT or TPS, and the programming your window swich.

Ricky

00Vette

iTrader: (4)

Forgive my ignorance, but what is a flapper?

I'll check the set points and the window switch too.

I'll report back when after I check it all out.

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

Jon out of curiousity what window switch are you using?

NXRICKY

iTrader: (1)

Sorry a flapper is a small piece of teflon inside the hose. When the hoses are built sometime the insert can shave a small piece of teflon from the liner. This acts like a one way door. flowing well one direction and not very well the next.
Ricky

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Sorry I left eary Jon, but had my own issues. Now for everyones info, this kit was working fine after the install on the street and also at the dyno, so it's something that just sprung up. You might try a jumper wire or hook both wires together on the FPSS to eliminate that or to prove it as a problem. Yea, you should have been quicker, something'g up. I am working on my tune today, maybe, just maybe I'll have time tommorrow to help ya. You can come by today for a quick look and some ideas, but you'll have to do the work as I work on mine.
Robert

00Vette

iTrader: (4)

I'll have to stop by tomorrow! I have been spending so much time on my car that I had to throttle back and spend a bit of time with Cindy (my wife for those of you who don't know her).

I'll come visit you on Sunday. Cindy has another motorcycle safety course that day so that would be a great day to spend on my car. If you have other obligations that's cool too. I'll just give you a call in the morning........say 10:00am???

Thanks Robert and we'll get our cars squared away and in the 10's before the end of the season! Hopefully by next weekend.

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

You two better get your stuff together by next weekend!

I just stuffed the 88N jet in and we are about to start tuning it

00Vette

iTrader: (4)

Well I hope our bugs get worked out, but don't get your hopes up. One or both of us may not be able to run with you guys.

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

Offer Still stands for help

usd2sing

iTrader: (15)

i experience something similar.

was using the MSD window sw, not the digi one.

come to find out you have to cut the wires on the window sw, set it up in 4cyl mode. once we cut the wire(s) it worked flawlessly..

FWIW

EDIT: had to do this on my vette and on my daughters 02 v6 camaro.

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

I have dual 36's (stg 1) and dual 28's (stg 20 in right now, however, I am ready for my dual set of 46's and 32's when the time comes. Recalibrating my MAF today and worked all day yeasterday on my tune (I won't go into how it got skewed), but will say it was not of my doing. Check this out, one of the indicators that something was up: When hitting the purge button it would scroll through the traction control? and was getting emmissions codes which are still plauging me amongest a whole bunch of other issues.
Robert

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

Yup time to dig into the wiring and find your ground and power run's. Shareing off a signal wire could cause big issues. They may read System Voltage(11-15v) but actually just be signal wires

00Vette

iTrader: (4)

Well I found out that the lines aren't an issue.

However, when Robert and I were trying to pinpoint the issue, we taped the WOT switch down and disconnected the fuel hot wires (to keep it from spraying fuel) and revved the enging to try and get the nitrous to spray.

Well we passed what seemed to be right around 3500-4000 and finally the kit sprayed. But it was coming out in spurts, then at 5000rpms a solid stream came out of the line like its supposed to.

So we tried it again! This time the nitrous would only come out over 5000rpms. Now that explains the 2-3mph gain at the track but no ET improvement.

Well when we went back into the window switch to program it or should I say ensure it was programmed correctly we found an issue or two there.

Now here are the issues we found. I attached pictures of the instructions and a link with them in it so you can follow along or possibly see somthing I don't! I even attached a pic of the switch installed.

In "run" mode the window switch would show 100 for the ABC displays. It says in the instructions that A= throttle position activeation switch status [0= off / 1= on]. But in the programming mode for step 7 we selected "03" because we aren't using the TPS wire (blue wire). So IMO, the window switch should display 000 in "run" mode because the TPS function is not being used.

Now I don't know if this would even directly contribute to the fact that the window swith is spraying at 5000rpm when its set to spray at 3000rpms, but its one of the issues we ran across. That and the fact that we selected "01" for TACH set-up in programming mode for step 1. Which is "coil packs that fire in pairs". I thought personally that it would have been "00= individual coil per cylinder". But Beer99 posted up where he set his up and set it to "01" and it has obviously worked for him.

No here is the curve ball, Robert and I had this working @ 3000rpms fight after we finished the installation and on the dyno it sprayed hard at 3000rpms. One of the two nitrous pulls on the dyno, the car had to be shut down because it came on so violently. The seond time the bottle was just about empty and 150 hp jets only netted a 90rwhp gain. But it came on at 3000rpms and the graphs show it. I can post them later if it'll help.

window switch instructions site:
http://www.fjoracing.com/products/rp.../downloads.php

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

Well lets start there. You do not HAVE a TPS persay AND if you are coming off of the Throttle body you are only getting what the PCM is giving it. We have seen many times just because you have your foot on the floor the "Fly by Wire" signal does not command 100%

By pass where ever you are hooked to the TPS(program it out) and put in a WOT switch on the floor pedal.

This should help there. It is hard to tell with out logs but I am guessing the PCM was not commanding WOT till after 5000 there for no juice.