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Engine requirements for 300HP spray

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Old 08-12-2006, 10:18 AM
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Default Engine requirements for 300HP spray

Okay, time to build up a serious nitrous powered LS1. Right now I'm trying to put together a game plan and need suggestions. I'd like to stick with an aluminum block due to the weight benefits of being approximately 100 lbs lighter. I don't want to go totally exotic on the parts list, just good dependable parts. I don't think Lunati or Cola are priced anywhere near my reality, though their parts may be the best and strongest in the world. What would be a good combination of parts to build a middle of the road, nitrous safe daily driver? I'm thinking of forged nitrous pistons, forged rods and possibly a 4" stroker. Anyone have a proven package they're running with 300+ HP of spray that they're willing to pass the knowledge? I'll probably be sticking to the stock bore since my block is still like new. Maybe going to an LS2 block if I find something wrong with the stock block. I know GM has a 6.2L block out now. Does it use a longer stroke crank and the stock 6.125 rod with a larger bore?
Old 08-12-2006, 08:47 PM
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You need to give us a ballpark budget. Just off the top of my head I'd say a forged 402 would be a good bet. Just make sure the builder knows it's for spray and they can change a few things during the build. With a 300 shot you may want to due nitrous specific pistons and hell fire rings if you plan to spray it alot. Definately use main and head studs as well.
Old 08-12-2006, 09:09 PM
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I've already got an idea of what I want to do. All I need is the shortblock. I'm trying to keep the shortblock under $4000. A general list of what are good parts for nitrous is what I'm looking for. Things like Wiseco nitrous specific pistons, Eagle rods, Eagle crank, Calico coated bearings, new cast iron 6.0L block or LS2 block.... What are you guys running that works and is reliable?
Old 08-12-2006, 09:46 PM
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You'll be around 4100 bucks for a nitrous specific 408. figure you send them your block and save 850 bucks or so and have a shortblock for probably 3300 bucks.

Nate
Old 08-12-2006, 09:47 PM
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At $4k for a shortblock you're gonna be pushing it for a stroker. Stock cubes shouldn't be a problem though. I have a good $6k in my 408 shortblock. Lunati crank and rods, arp hardware throughout, weisco nitrous pistons. I'm planning on doing a 250-300 shot in the end and it should take it. An iron block isn't the worst idea either if you plan on hitting it with juice alot.
Old 08-12-2006, 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by ss_girl
At $4k for a shortblock you're gonna be pushing it for a stroker. Stock cubes shouldn't be a problem though. I have a good $6k in my 408 shortblock. Lunati crank and rods, arp hardware throughout, weisco nitrous pistons. I'm planning on doing a 250-300 shot in the end and it should take it. An iron block isn't the worst idea either if you plan on hitting it with juice alot.
He stated that he already has an LS2 block. It's going to cost me roughly 3300 bucks in parts and machine work minus the block for a motor that can handle 450 combined hit.

Nate
Old 08-12-2006, 10:33 PM
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Diamond piston wont handle a 300?
Old 08-13-2006, 07:27 AM
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Well, the verdict is in. The stock block needs replaced, anyway, so up to a 4.000" bore I go. This engine is going into a 5200 lb truck and I am wondering if 100 lbs more of cast iron is going to truly be much of an issue. What brand of parts would you suggest I go with? Are H beam rods better than I beam? I read that I should get 2618 aluminum alloy pistons but Katech says 4032 alloy is better. Any opinions?
Old 08-13-2006, 08:57 PM
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go with a set of wiseco nitrous ready pistons they come with the ring lands moved down and extra meat on the dish area. Im building a 408 nitrous motor so I've already done all this research. The tech people at wiseco assured me that their nitrous ready pistons would hold a 400 shot. Wiseco uses 2618 alloy aluminum which is better for nitrous applications. The 4032 is low expansion alloy which contains alot of silicon, making them brittle and prone to shattering. The 2618 alloy is more forgiving of heat, and stress.
Old 08-13-2006, 11:15 PM
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i've got an iron 6.0L block .030" over, H-beam rods, diamond flattops with diamond proselect rings gapped at .030", and a stock crank out of an 03' escalade. it was fully balanced, arp head and main studs, i don't think i will have a problem with a 300 shot. i've hit the 200 a few times with no problems at all. just need a bigger kit and fuel system for a bigger shot but it will come
Old 08-14-2006, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Red Heartbeat
Well, the verdict is in. The stock block needs replaced, anyway, so up to a 4.000" bore I go. This engine is going into a 5200 lb truck and I am wondering if 100 lbs more of cast iron is going to truly be much of an issue. What brand of parts would you suggest I go with? Are H beam rods better than I beam? I read that I should get 2618 aluminum alloy pistons but Katech says 4032 alloy is better. Any opinions?
I don't know where you got that information.

We offer both, 4032 for street and 2618 for racing.
Old 08-14-2006, 09:10 AM
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I was reading what was on the Katech website in your piston section. Maybe it was misinterpreted.

http://www.katechengines.com/street_...tail.php?id=31

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Old 06-17-2022, 08:19 PM
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Default Forged short block

I have a 6.0 iron block bored and stroked to 408, Crower crank, Oliver rods and wiseco -8cc dished forged pistons for 10.6:1 comp ratio, what kind of boost can i run on this bottom end? Thanks!
Old 06-18-2022, 03:10 AM
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You people do realize that a stock truck 4.8 with better heads and cam could eat a 300 shot no problem, right? Why spend on big cubes when you are spraying your horsepower? Iron block and thick cylinder walls would be much more important to me than cubic inches in this scenario.
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