1BadAzzWS6

iTrader: (11)

For best results I always keep it between 1050-1100.

Phil99vette

iTrader: (11)

I think I'll try two bottles between 900-1000 and adjust the fuel pressure so the A/F is right.
Phil

WS6HUMMER

iTrader: (19)

I'm wondering about solenoid reliability above 1000 psi, is it safe?

Mike TexaSS

iTrader: (2)

Instead of adjusting the fuel pressure, change the fuel jet in each particular hole. This is more expensive than adjusting fuel pressure, but it will allow you to tune each cylinder individually. You will be able to account for differences in flow in the cylinder head, manifold, and even the plumbing in your direct port. The problem with lowering the fuel pressure is that you can only tune to the leanest cylinder. If you see that two cylinders are overly rich and the others are okay, you can take out a fuel jet in the rich cylinders to compensate. It's the best way to get maximum performance from your system.

-Ben R.

Phil99vette

iTrader: (11)

So I guess the best bet is to run 2 bottles and jet accordingly.

JDP

iTrader: (21)

ok, i was thinking about the bottle pressure for my dry shot.

the first couple times i sprayed it i was at 900psi, if i get my bottle pressure to 1100psi, how much of a difference will it make.

i put the kit together myself from some old **** i have, 2 poweshot solenoids with a single fan sray nozzle poking through the lid with a 47 jet. i scaned my o2s and everything looked good during spray, and now i want to step up the jet a little bit, but do you think i should scan it with a higher bottle pressure first and then up the jet, or will the higher bottle pressure not make that much of a difference with a dry shot like that?

Mike TexaSS

iTrader: (2)

Yes sir. Start with the manufacturers recommended jetting pattern (NX's tune-ups are probably the closest of any mass manufacturer, although I don't like the big jet spreads) and work from there. Keep an eye on your timing and remember that when you take out fuel jets you might also want to take out some timing just to be safe on the first hit.

A few other recommendations I can make are to put a fresh set of plugs in your engine every time you make a jetting change. And get a nice spark plug light. They're invaluable tools when looking at plugs.

-Ben R

JDP

iTrader: (21)

well i converted N.O.S dual jets from the 5177 kit to a single jet, and it is a 100 shot with the 47 jet and i just put in the tr6s, so i guess ill just run the higher bottle pressure with the 47 jet and then step it up from there. its a dry kit so i have to rely on the MAF and injectors to do the job for fuel

im a nitrous newbie and this is the first kit ive ever played around with

n2o junkee

iTrader: (-1)

I'm also new to the nitrous world and I think I'm in love with it. I want to thank everyone who responded to this post. It is very informing

Loudmouth LS1

iTrader: (10)

May be a dumb question, but what's a spark plug light?

Mike TexaSS

iTrader: (2)

Basically it's a tool that racers use to inspect their spark plugs after every pass. The best thing to use is an Otoscope. It's the tool that doctors use to look into a patients nose, ears, and eyes. They're nothing more than a magnafying glass with a very pure light to illuminate with. You can buy one from your local Medical Supply Store. Mine is a Welch Allyn. It's a very high quality piece that was recommended to me by some top racers.

The tool is needed because after a blast down the track, the only place (assuming you're close on the tune-up) you'll get any information from is going to be at the very bottom of the porcelain. Short of cutting the threads off of the spark plug, an Otoscope is the best way to see what's going on down there. You will be able to see how rich/lean your mixture is. The timing marks are seen with the naked eye, however.

-Ben R

P.S. You'll see a lot of people (Even people who claim to know how to read a plug) reading plugs without the use of an Otoscope or plug light. These people are squirrels and their tuning opinions should be tossed out the window.

B18B1LS1

iTrader: (12)

A spark plug light is like a lighted magnifying glass. It's used to look down into the plug, that's where the real story is if your fine tuning your system. It's not just about reading the strap like some people will tell you.

On edit:
I guess we posted at the same time, dang it man!

B18B1LS1

iTrader: (12)

Regarding the original subject, I've found a good way to combat a little pressure drop. I heat my bottle a few times before a run, I've found that if I just heat it up once the pressure drops very quick during my run, almost like it has built up head pressure but not good heat throughout the bottle. If I heat it up, then let it sit and kind of level out, then heat it back up to the pressure I want it stays way more consistent. I guess it might just be the entire bottle is getting warm and holding the pressure because of it. Either way though it does help if you have the time between rounds to do that.

Mike TexaSS

iTrader: (2)

One good way to accomplish this is to get a water bottle heater. Before each pass you'll submerge your two bottles into warm water. This will warm the entire bottle up, not just the bottom as if you were using a torch.

B18B1LS1

iTrader: (12)

Absolutely, I've been wanting to try that out. I've heard it does work really well. Same thing for quickly cooling a potentially overheated bottle, except with cold water of course!

Mike TexaSS

iTrader: (2)

In our Pro-Mod stuff we actually heat the bottle up to 1250 PSI. We do this because the IHRA calls all of the Pro-Cars (Top Fuel, Funny Car, Pro-Mod, and Pro-Stock) to the lanes at almost the same time. If there is an oil down or a wreck we can be stuck there for a long time. We also use some of the nitrous pressure to active our air shifters for the transmission. The volume of nitrous used for this is VERY low, but nonetheless, is accounted for. Then, before the run, we 'boom' the systems to shock the fuel regulator. Our launch PSI is only 950 though.

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Yep, that's why I went with the dual 15'lbers, no more persevible pressure drop, or at least minimal, and thus more consistant runs. Also, the added wieght will help with your wheels up launches.
Robert

B18B1LS1

iTrader: (12)

I never knew or even thought about using some of the nitrous for the air shifter. That's pretty cool, and it keeps that extra bottle you would need out of the car. I like it!