2001z

iTrader: (32)

3,000 here why take a chance ? Jut buy a convertor for you can leave harder .

Big Geek

iTrader: (2)

I'm with cheese, now please understand that I realize the risks and have found the limits on a few of my cars. So long as nothing bogs everything is usually good to go. However, something slips up and you are replacing the intake at the very least. Most everyone I know uses hits the button right off the line. I have found that with a TPS switch activated system that my car doesn't particularly like being activated below, 2600-rpm. I use the button to engage the second stage. If I run the second stage right off the line then I just hit it as soon as the pedal hits the floor. 3000-rpm is the standard in which most companies reccomend activating it for reasons that have been alreads stated in some of the other posts here. If you are willing to accept the risk then by all means hit it right off the line. If not then I would set it at 3000-rpm and have a happy N2O experience. Either way good luck to ya.

Jim C.

white2001s10

iTrader: (4)

I see no problem there.

Wet shot + manual ain't gonna work that low.

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

My spray turns on at 2800, bit also keep in mind that the only time it actually sprays at that low of an rpm is in first gear, one you shift you wont go back down to 2800 again anyway.
I been spraying at that RPM for a few years now with no problems.

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

LOL

well last weekend We set mine off at idle! 200RWHP at 1,000rpm. SUre scared the hell out of every one around LOL!

We were headed to the scales to wiegh the pig in(3,620) and I hit the horn because the blind lady in front of us would not merge into traffic...WEEEELLLLLLLL the Horn is the activation button and we were making tuning runs. I will bet there was at least a 1/4 inch between the two cars after it stalled to over 4,000 instantly and the car about ripped the front end off the ground

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

isn't this just freaking nice? This thread say I post the above post every day and have not touched it in some time!

ShiznityZ28

iTrader: (11)

I wouldn't recomend it to anyone who can't afford a breakage or does not want to chance it but we have sprayed cars as low as 1800. we normally would do it on an auto with a tight convertor that is not hitting the tirees hard enough. if you get the juice in early and it makes the vertor flash harder the car is not under a moving load until after 3K . like i said we have only doen this with the warning

BaD AZz Z28

iTrader: (2)

With my LT1 T56 setup, just a hotcam and shorty headers, I sprayed out of the hole ALL the time. As bad as this may sound to this thread, I actually bogged the car intentionally and used the spray to get me out of the bog.

The car was set up for handling at the time and traction was an issue. So for some late night action, I could always get the jump by launching at 1500-1800, bogging down, flipping the switch and gone. I never had a problem with that until we sprayed too low on a dyno and got a backfire. It finished the dyno run, putting down 487rwhp 571rw-tq but 3-4 months later I cracked a ring land while driving around. However, it had 119,000 on stock EVERYTHING, and the damage was so minimal that it just needed a new piston slapped back in and off she went. It wasnt the way Id set it up for anyone else, but it went 11.5s at mid 120s and beat alot of unsuspecting street racers at the time.

hugger1975

iTrader: (3)

175 DP

Window is 3k-6k.

You guys convinced me to keep it that way.

StreetKing

Ive never had a LS1 car, but with the LT1's we sprayed 150-200 outta the hole with stock converters all the time. Never used a button, always used a wot switch. As soon as the light dropped, was on the floor with spray on, never hurt anything even when it bogged a couple times.

02 BLK WS6

iTrader: (11)

Roll off the line and activate. No problems with the motor. So far the tranny has gone south, 1 set of gears, and 1 carrier.

EGash

iTrader: (17)

With the stock convertor and stock 2.73 gears my car wouldn't get out of the hole quick enough unless I started the spray below 3K. I took it as low as 2300, never had any problems, but I was always concerned about spraying that low.

Now I have a Fuddle. I foot brake it to 1500, then it flashes to almost 4K at WOT, the window switch is now set On at 2800, but it's only there for a brief second as it flashes up. This technique works great, but as always, ymmv.

red fury

iTrader: (1)

IMO, if you use a progressive controller ramped on RPM you can get away with some low rpm hits due to being in control of the % of N20 being sprayed at the start RPM. I like to trickle mine in at 2600rpm with my M6 3.90 cam only setup.

If you use a window switch.....on 100% at Xrpm...I wouldn't do it with a M6.

parish8

iTrader: (6)

i didn't read the whole thread but have something to share. i have a dry shot and spray a 125-175shot at 2200rpm. 2200rpm is exactly the rpm i can brake stall to easily and i want the nitrous to hit as soon as i floor it. i have a few hundred runs doing this with no problems.

i voted yes but playing with fire. you should carry a fire extinguisher with you.

TrickChassis

iTrader: (8)

i always spray off the line but i have a converter desighned for it! and the stall is over 3000

02NHRAtransAm

iTrader: (17)

maybe if i had a 9" and some 11" wheels out back....

sprung_monkey

iTrader: (8)

Click here to see Video


listen VERY carfully when the light goes green.........i tend to spray kinda early

SmaknaSS

iTrader: (1)

with my stock bottom end? Only 3500 to 6200 for me.

germeezy1

Mine is set at 3200 RPM and since I can't get traction even N/A I have no wants to change it.

00Vette

iTrader: (4)

I wouldn't if i were you. just my .02 cents