Wideband question
Nope, sorry. You could try to sell your WS to recoup some of the $.
Matt
Matt
Originally Posted by waterbug1999
I bought a window switch so I dont need the timing tuner to do this: "Technical Specifications: Microprocessor Controlled | Turn on: 2000-5500 | Turn off: 5900-7400" as quoted on your site.
Is there a cheaper one that will just retard timing when N20 is activated and visa versa? Thats all I need.
Is there a cheaper one that will just retard timing when N20 is activated and visa versa? Thats all I need.
Jody, you would probably only lose a few HP if you had him back off 2-3* of timing, Jeremy (HAULNTA) has his tune setup for nitrous, he could make a little more power NA, but the timing is backed a touch to keep it safe on the N20.
Originally Posted by waterbug1999
Hell, I cant weld and I guess "if" I go this route, I will have to take the headers off and take them to a shop.
I have longtube headers and no cats. This said, my 02 (one on each side) sensors/bungs are about 6/8 inches from the end of the header. So, your are saying just to place them where the pipe turns down and goes under the car and at a "2" oclock position instead of the "3" oclock position like the 02's are now??
Is there a kit that is acurate and can somehow use the exsisting 02's for a wideband set up? I really dont want to take the headers off "again".. Im running out of time to race up here due to snow will be here prolly next month! lol
I have longtube headers and no cats. This said, my 02 (one on each side) sensors/bungs are about 6/8 inches from the end of the header. So, your are saying just to place them where the pipe turns down and goes under the car and at a "2" oclock position instead of the "3" oclock position like the 02's are now??
Is there a kit that is acurate and can somehow use the exsisting 02's for a wideband set up? I really dont want to take the headers off "again".. Im running out of time to race up here due to snow will be here prolly next month! lol
I know it is a pain to take the headers off but I think you will love the wide band. If you use the existing 02 sensors you have to go narrow band. This is not as accurate and you can't use the FJO unit. Also you won't have the lean-rich shut down feature for safety.
If you have no cats can you take the stock 02 sensors out and use 02 simulators? I'm not sure you would have to ask someone. If you can then you could put the new 02 sensors where the stock ones are.
I had the holes drilled and the double wall problem solved by squeezing both pipes together and gas welding the inner and outer pipes together where I drilled the hole. So when I took it to the welder he did not charge me.
He just said come back when you have a bigger job. I can weld but the bungs were small & I wanted to be sure they were on good and I did not want to burn a hole in the pipe. Thats what I was kind of wondering myself? Does the wideband go where the stock 02's go and the car run off of that? Or do you need the stock 02's AND the wideband 02's??
Originally Posted by black_z
Jody, you would probably only lose a few HP if you had him back off 2-3* of timing, Jeremy (HAULNTA) has his tune setup for nitrous, he could make a little more power NA, but the timing is backed a touch to keep it safe on the N20.
Yea, I think thats what I am going to do for now.. We are running out of time up here to race. I figured that I will get one last time and will spray the heck out if it! This might be a winter project.
Dusty, you going down to CFR in October when we all go?
I dont think I will... I am going to have to rent a trailer for 60 bucks, therefore I will go and come back the same day.... Just racing this time..
I camped out at BIR (Muscle Car Shootout)for 2 nights and I partied more then i raced. IT sucked because there was 400 cars and I would race in the morning then have a few beers which turned into a 12 pack, and I was suppose to race in teh evening as well, but I was not going to race buzzed/drunk. lol
Had a good time though..
I am going to make this wideband a project ove rthe winter.. I might even work on a forged 383 and throw a 300 shot. I need to get a 12 bolt or a Dana 60 too!!
I camped out at BIR (Muscle Car Shootout)for 2 nights and I partied more then i raced. IT sucked because there was 400 cars and I would race in the morning then have a few beers which turned into a 12 pack, and I was suppose to race in teh evening as well, but I was not going to race buzzed/drunk. lol
Had a good time though..
I am going to make this wideband a project ove rthe winter.. I might even work on a forged 383 and throw a 300 shot. I need to get a 12 bolt or a Dana 60 too!!
Originally Posted by waterbug1999
Thats what I was kind of wondering myself? Does the wideband go where the stock 02's go and the car run off of that? Or do you need the stock 02's AND the wideband 02's??
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JOdy, back off the timing 2 deg and leave it. youll forget what the car felt na once you start spraying! Im spraying 100 shot with 26 deg total with no problems, just make sure you run good gas, colder plug and if your rally nervous splash with some 110 from lakeville Mc stop
Are you sure you need timing pulled? I run 24* with a 235rwhp shot and no problems. We carry the FJO, and some of the Innovetive products amongst others. they are in the new web site, which is on the main page of old site just press new online store for some insight. I just had the local muffler install my bung for 25 bucks, and I run the lm1, which can log your a/f and/or display actual or log into laptop and hide it away (and log mucho other stuff if ya want). I have a pic in my web site of it mounted on dash windshield.
Robert
Robert
11 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 891
Likes: 0
From: minneapolis,mn
You should not need to pull timing on a small shot like that. Just have gino scan your car while spraying and see if you have extra kr if you do look at how much you have and adjust your timing accordingly you'll never miss the little bit of N/A power.
Well, I Put the TR 6's in and my plugs I pulled out (100 miles on them / Iridiums) were all black as hell.. So, i think its running really rich..
Looks like Ill just go with a simple LC-1 for now to trouble shoot this issue.
Looks like Ill just go with a simple LC-1 for now to trouble shoot this issue.
Originally Posted by waterbug1999
Well, I Put the TR 6's in and my plugs I pulled out (100 miles on them / Iridiums) were all black as hell.. So, i think its running really rich..
Looks like Ill just go with a simple LC-1 for now to trouble shoot this issue.
Looks like Ill just go with a simple LC-1 for now to trouble shoot this issue.
I would never have guessed this as long as the nitrous and fuel pressures stay the same I would have thought the AFR would stay fairly cosistent but it does not. Maybe the ECM is trying to compensate for the rich condition when spraying. If you have 02 sims then you might see more consistent AFRs.
I certainly could see the variance in AFR when reviewing the data log that you could not see as accuratly on the AFR guage.