Wideband question
Wideband question I was looking at getting a timing tuner put on so when the N20 is activated, it automatically retards timing.. O.k.. Cool.
But, after looking into a wideband system, I see that it retards timing so no need to get both correct? Here is the wideband system I was looking at.
http://www.widebandcommander.com/benefits.htm
I am pretty much trying to spray as safely as possible.. What do you guys suggest???
(I all ready have a W.S and a Safety Fuel switch)
But, after looking into a wideband system, I see that it retards timing so no need to get both correct? Here is the wideband system I was looking at.
http://www.widebandcommander.com/benefits.htm
I am pretty much trying to spray as safely as possible.. What do you guys suggest???
(I all ready have a W.S and a Safety Fuel switch)
Check out the FJO wideband. I looked at the one you are looking at but decided on the FJO 2 channel unit. It has built in window & TPS switches. I know you have the WS but you could sell it. I just sprayed for the first time tonight and it was great. 
You can set the air fuel ratios and if it gets too rich or more importantly too lean it will shut the system down saving the motor. Their tech support is first class. I hooked up an LED in my pillar pod that comes on when the solenoids activate so I don't have to guess if they are open or closed. The system was shutting down but I could see why, it was to lean in 3rd & 4th gear. So now I can change jets and see what effect it has. It sure will save going to the dyno to tune the car as you can see the AFR on the guage.
Great product. Not cheap but you don't have to guess what your AFR is. If it saves the motor only once it will pay for it's self many times over. If I had not had it and if I had been really lean I would probably have a blown motor and been the most ticked off guy in town tonight.
You can set the air fuel ratios and if it gets too rich or more importantly too lean it will shut the system down saving the motor. Their tech support is first class. I hooked up an LED in my pillar pod that comes on when the solenoids activate so I don't have to guess if they are open or closed. The system was shutting down but I could see why, it was to lean in 3rd & 4th gear. So now I can change jets and see what effect it has. It sure will save going to the dyno to tune the car as you can see the AFR on the guage.Great product. Not cheap but you don't have to guess what your AFR is. If it saves the motor only once it will pay for it's self many times over. If I had not had it and if I had been really lean I would probably have a blown motor and been the most ticked off guy in town tonight.
Last edited by terry s; Sep 19, 2006 at 10:35 PM.
Check this out.
http://fjoracing.com/products/WBAFR/
I got mine from Dave at Nitro Dave's. Great guy if you have not dealt with him before.
I do not know about your mods, see what Dave says but my 02 ZO6 is stock and although some say to pull 2 degrees per 50 shot. I was thinking about getting a timing tuner but most every one I talked to said up to 100 shot on stock timing on a stock motor will be fine.
My whole mission was to keep it as safe as I can just like you.
I was intimidated at first because you have to program it and I am pretty much a computer dummy. Most use a lap top but you don't need one. You can take the little unit in the house and program it on youe PC. Gerald at FJO tech was great. He walked me through it and it was really pretty easy. All you need is a 12 volt source if you do it at your PC. I used a little 12v battery from an alarm system.
http://fjoracing.com/products/WBAFR/
I got mine from Dave at Nitro Dave's. Great guy if you have not dealt with him before.
I do not know about your mods, see what Dave says but my 02 ZO6 is stock and although some say to pull 2 degrees per 50 shot. I was thinking about getting a timing tuner but most every one I talked to said up to 100 shot on stock timing on a stock motor will be fine.
My whole mission was to keep it as safe as I can just like you.
I was intimidated at first because you have to program it and I am pretty much a computer dummy. Most use a lap top but you don't need one. You can take the little unit in the house and program it on youe PC. Gerald at FJO tech was great. He walked me through it and it was really pretty easy. All you need is a 12 volt source if you do it at your PC. I used a little 12v battery from an alarm system.
I saw that FJO on N.D. web site.. But, it just showed a cable and said you need this and that part number.. ????
All my mods are in my sig pretty much.
What was the price that you got for everything?
All my mods are in my sig pretty much.
What was the price that you got for everything?
Last edited by waterbug1999; Sep 19, 2006 at 11:19 PM.
Originally Posted by waterbug1999
I saw that FJO on N.D. web site.. But, it just showed a cable and said you need this and that part number.. ????
All my mods are in my sig pretty much.
What was the price that you got for everything?
All my mods are in my sig pretty much.
What was the price that you got for everything?
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Originally Posted by Matt@HSW
You'll still need the TT if you want to pull timing. The WBC won't pull timing on a LS1 engine.
Matt
Matt
I'm running the Innovative LC1 wideband and logging air fuel right into HP Tuners software. Which ever wideband you go with, make sure is has enough outputs to log into some kind of datalogger and run a nice air fuel gauge.
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lc1.php
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lc1.php
Originally Posted by black_z
Jody, I would just have Gino, or whoever tuned your car, pull a few degrees of timing out of your tune, and run good gas/plugs.
Originally Posted by Z06kern
I'm running the Innovative LC1 wideband and logging air fuel right into HP Tuners software. Which ever wideband you go with, make sure is has enough outputs to log into some kind of datalogger and run a nice air fuel gauge.
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lc1.php
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lc1.php
Looks like I need to get a wideband system with a A/F guage and a timing tuner I guess..
Originally Posted by terry s
Thanks Matt. I told him that in a PM. Depending on his mods I suggested he get advice if he needs to pull any timing for a 100 shot.
Yup, here's a link:
http://www.harrisspeedworks.com/shop...cat=308&page=1
Matt
http://www.harrisspeedworks.com/shop...cat=308&page=1
Matt
Originally Posted by waterbug1999
Do you guys carry TT?
I bought a window switch so I dont need the timing tuner to do this: "Technical Specifications: Microprocessor Controlled | Turn on: 2000-5500 | Turn off: 5900-7400" as quoted on your site.
Is there a cheaper one that will just retard timing when N20 is activated and visa versa? Thats all I need.
Is there a cheaper one that will just retard timing when N20 is activated and visa versa? Thats all I need.
Originally Posted by waterbug1999
Hey Terry, where did you mount the "bung" for the wideband? Looks like you have to weld one in.. Is that right?
If you have double wall pipe I can tell you how to take care of that. If it is single wall just drill the hole and weld the bung on. Hint-before you weld it on drop a large bolt in the hole in the bung with a washer on it. This will protect the area where the 02 sensor gasket seats fron getting any weld spatter on it.
Hell, I cant weld and I guess "if" I go this route, I will have to take the headers off and take them to a shop.
I have longtube headers and no cats. This said, my 02 (one on each side) sensors/bungs are about 6/8 inches from the end of the header. So, your are saying just to place them where the pipe turns down and goes under the car and at a "2" oclock position instead of the "3" oclock position like the 02's are now??
Is there a kit that is acurate and can somehow use the exsisting 02's for a wideband set up? I really dont want to take the headers off "again".. Im running out of time to race up here due to snow will be here prolly next month! lol
I have longtube headers and no cats. This said, my 02 (one on each side) sensors/bungs are about 6/8 inches from the end of the header. So, your are saying just to place them where the pipe turns down and goes under the car and at a "2" oclock position instead of the "3" oclock position like the 02's are now??
Is there a kit that is acurate and can somehow use the exsisting 02's for a wideband set up? I really dont want to take the headers off "again".. Im running out of time to race up here due to snow will be here prolly next month! lol