In my opinion using an Iridium plug with nitrous is a major **** up. I have seen this with my own two eyes on two different cars both using nitrous. One had the Autolite Iridium Race Plugs and the other was using NGK Iridiums. Both cars would run fine on the motor N/A, but as soon as they tried to use the nitrous it all went to ****. Backfiring, spitting, sputtering, popping, banging, missing, surging, etc etc. They changed the nitrous jets, timing, fuel pressure, etc and nothing changed. One was a mustang with a 351W and the other was a LS1 Fbody. They finally swapped plugs and never had another problem with the nitrous.

The nitrous was blowing out the spark on the plug which was causing the popping and backfiring..

 

In my opinion using an Iridium plug with nitrous is a major **** up. I have seen this with my own two eyes on two different cars both using nitrous. One had the Autolite Iridium Race Plugs and the other was using NGK Iridiums. Both cars would run fine on the motor N/A, but as soon as they tried to use the nitrous it all went to ****. Backfiring, spitting, sputtering, popping, banging, missing, surging, etc etc. They changed the nitrous jets, timing, fuel pressure, etc and nothing changed. They finally swapped plugs and never had another problem with the nitrous.

I'm guessing that the nitrous was blowing out the spark on the plug which was causing the detonating..

 

Ok heres one for the books!!!

Yes, I am smart. TR anything is a projected tip plug. Period. End of story.

You can go look at your box that you so claim is a non projected tip and it will not say anything about TR on it. A TR6 plug is a projected tip. Go look up 4177 on NGk's site, which is what that plugs part number (tr6) on the box and you will get a description. You may have something that is equivalent to a TR6 but the box wont say anything TR on it. If you dont believe a word I say or post, thats fine. Go do the research on your own when you lose the tip and it lodges between the valve and seat in your head. Thats why I do not use them unless its an NA application.

Like I believe someone said in this thread already, if you are spraying, you should be pulling plugs often...If you are you know that you should not have a projected still tip in teh chamber because it will only lead to what robert said...A nasty repair bill because its not transferring the heat out of the chamber like a colder plug will do best.

 

Did you not see one of my previous posts? I said I know they are projected tips.

Anyway the Tr6 works fine for a 150 shot, I have sprayed tons of nitrous with my tr6's and they always look fine, melting a plug is the least of my concerns, actually I have zero concern spraying the 150, I have tuned it really good for it.

 

Whether they work fine or not, is not the answer to the question. The question is, re projected tip plugs recommended for nitrous? Depends on who you ask and what you believe.

As for Iridium plugs "blowing out" when used with nitrous....I would have to ask what the specs were? Heat range, gap etc. as that is not the norm. I can regap your stock plugs or whatever you run and achieve the same results!

 

Ok, so I've read your replies, but as with anything else on the net, it seems you have some knowledge of the message your attempting to type, however you fail to jusitify your position. I'm not sure, but your mannerisms remind me of a couple other older nitrous junkies that are all about bashing NGK TR series plugs, used to be any and every thread a jump in, bash and book out tactic. So, if you have some light to shed, please do so, respectfully of course.
Am I butt hurt you wanted to quote me and say dumb choice? Yes. Because you failed to interject any useful info, or experience other than the projected tip plugs suck rhetoric. If you knew the shot sizes I was referring to, and use maybe, not sure, but maybe it would change the opinion. OCCASIONAL USE/SMALLER SHOTS.
Anyway...lets continue with some sharing of information and not the fire and forget commentary.


Brad, chill out, only warning. No need to get into smartass calling etc...

 

Modifications and Spark plug considerations:
These are observations that have been made by us or passed on to us. This information is a generalisation only. Your Nitrous fitter should be able to advise you on a suitable set of plugs for your vehicle.


Nitrous Oxide Injection
1. Try to avoid platinum (particularly double platinum) plugs. There are suggestions that a chemical reaction may occur and some unusual deposits will form on the electrodes - these may impede ignition performance. Double platinum plugs (where a platinum 'chip' is welded into the ground electrode) may be at risk from the platinum chip becoming detached in extreme temperatures, the surrounding electrode material will doubtless have a lower melting point. A platinum chip dropping into the combustion chamber could be disastrous.

2. Try to find a plug with a short ground electrode. This is generally thought to be more important than a colder heat range. Because temperature will increase so severely and quickly when using nitrous oxide, the temperature at the tip of the plug's ground electrode will become extremely hot very quickly - the longer the ground electrode, the longer it will take for the excess heat to be conducted away from the tip to the plug shell and ultimately into the cooling system. An overheated ground electrode tip can cause detonation and may even fail completely.

3. Try to find a 'non projected' plug. The design of a projected plug will usually aid ignition performance at low engine speeds by moving the spark position closer to the centre of the combustion chamber, the downside of this is that the centre electrode and central ceramic insulator become exposed to combustion gases and hence are at risk of damage under extreme conditions. By using a non projected or even a retracted spark position, the firing tip is more protected and plug failure is less likely. A non projected or retracted plug by design will have a shorter ground electrode which is beneficial for the reasons mentioned in 2. above.

4. Use a non resistor or Iridium type plug if available. Please note if your vehicle manufacturer recommends a resistorised plug as standard we would not recommend using a non resistor plug, interference with engine and safety management systems may result! Some plug designs are only available with integral resistors. By using a non resistorised type plug, the amount of voltage available at the plug's firing end is slightly increased and therefore the risk of misfire under load is reduced. If combustion conditions are particularly extreme then an increased 'spark jump' voltage is required. Effectively, when more fuel and oxygen are compressed in the combustion chamber (as occurs in nitrous/turbo/supercharger use) the result will be similar to that of increasing the plug gap - if the gap becomes too large for the available voltage then the spark simply won't be able to jump the gap. Iridium spark plugs can help as they have a greatly reduced firing voltage (despite an integral resistor) - lower overall than most copper non resistor plugs. High performance ignition leads (such as Magnecor KV85 leads) can also help supply maximum available voltage to the plug.

5. Use a colder heat range plug. While colder plugs will be of limited worth during a large, short burst of nitrous, they will help to return the sparkplug tip to a safer operating temperature more quickly in between or after nitrous use. The intense heat of nitrous burn will not have time to be dissipated much more effectively by a colder plug in the usually short space of time for which nitrous is injected. A short ground electrode is more useful for maintaining 'safe' conditions during nitrous use (see 2. above)

6. Learn by the mistakes of others. There are no applications guides of suitable plugs for nitrous equipped engines. Web forums are a valuable resource when trying to identify a suitable part to use. It's unlikely that you will be the first to have a nitrous system fitted to your particular engine type. Do some research and try to find out what has worked for others and, perhaps more importantly, what hasn't worked.

http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/pages/t...park-plugs.htm

 

So to sum that up:
-Use irridium
-Use non-projected plugs
-Use colder plugs
-Use a plug with a short ground strap.
-Short ground straps are more important than plug heat range.

NowI truly am an Internet plug expret/engineer.

 

So with all this said, does anyone know of a plug that is non projected, colder heat range, with a short ground on it. When someone finds one we just may have the new nitrous plug of choice. Ya never know.

 

Bravo Brad...now go print yourself out a certificate to hang behind the monitor

 

Ill add it to my collection of other Internet car related certificates i have.

 

I do believe Autolite race plugs, as has been mentioned in the numerous TR6 bash posts in the past. I want to say AR109 but I cant remember for sure.

 

now you see why i don't argue charlie.. you do your best to try and help people from your own personal experience and you get

the guy.. who read on the internet.. about the guy out west.. who makes 1200 hp.. and he said to use these.. or i think.. i'm sure hes not sponsored or anything.. and he's a good friend of mine.. we talked on aim.. so his word is gospel..

it gets quite rediculous.. there are alot of people on here who shpuld be glad i can't edit or delete posts..

so yeah how do i get that power??

i mean i sit on here like 9 hrs a day..LMAO

Mike

 

Sounds good, however, I think I'll reasearch the irridium a little more, as there are irridium shafts with different materials on the electrode tip, and I wonder the reason for this. No doubt, we are on the right track though. Good research Brad. I will mail your Engineering Diploma out soon, as soon as the the Dean sign's it off.

Charlie, the autolite you speak of I believe Ellis from Speed Secrets runs and touts that plug. This may be my next plug to try. Maybe he'll see this and state the plug he uses (he's a NW tuner and replied earler).
Robert

 

Ok I registered here just because of this post! I currently drive a 97 ws6 but I was in the honda thing for a longgggg time. I consider myself a guru for turbos and know somewhat about nitrous.

Ok here's the skinny, I have used iridium plugs on my turbo and nitrous cars for some time now and I can tell you that they work great for the hondas. My turbo car was running 18psi and doing about 360whp. I used copper plugs all the time had to change them out about every other week. Not because I had to but because it was to easy and cheap not to do. The iridiums would last me a great time over the copper but the performance was the same. Spark is spark and way you see it, Now If the metal is stronger and have a higher melting point and require less voltage to cross the gap whats wrong with it??? I'm speaking from experience from my past cars. Now on these cars I have no clue. Just like you guys like autolite plugs and run great my honda would run like **** with any other plug other than ngk or denso's.

 

The problem isnt the spark plug, its normally the tard behind the spark plug tuning the car

The plugs we use are non projected nose, drive like TR6s, and are subjected to 250 hits on the pump and have seen 350 on good gas.

 

Yes I can get you that plug. $3 a plug, will take a beating but dont drive so good. Also have some that drive like stock, $15 or so a plug, but pretty nice plug

 

Ngk does rec the iridium for turbos, specificlly the TIR6 iridium projected tip, but not for nitrous. Most here do run the NGK tr6.
Robert

 

Oh pick me for the latter of that...I tuned my own car, and forgot I had the NA tune in when I burnt all 8 of my TR6 plugs up.

I think, this is just a thought here...the plugs are like a safety item. I believe the non-projected tip arguement, to an extent (call that extent for MAXIMUM performance use them, for daily driver and track duty car, WTFE!). I think the projected tips COULD act as an ***-saver if you **** your tune up, or some anomoly happens, the plugs would be sacrificed, burnt up, run like ****, idle like *** and make you go Hmmmmm lets pull a plug and read it! Maybe not, but it seems from the weak arguements on why TR6 plugs suck, that there must be some super-duper great benefit to running a non-prj tip plug? Like longer life, "takes more beating" (and street manners are ****? yea, that the plug I want.... and no Granny this is not directed at you exclusively, other have the same statements but nothing to back up why TR6 are junk!) blah blah blah blah... Show me. Show me why the proj tips plugs (PTP) shouldnt be used. Again, I am coming from the street/strip angle, not the "Well on my gutted race car that doesnt see street duty....". If PTP are inherently weaker from the tip being out in the chamber, then if something happened to cause the PTP to burn up, what does it do to the NPTP?

****, more talk and less backup. Come on, if someone wants to call a turd a turd at least be able to state why!