Nitrous Blows Up My Motor
#1
Staging Lane
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Nitrous Blows Up My Motor
I'm out racing last night and the service engine light starts blinking halfway through the race and starts to run like **** so I pulled off and white smoke is coming out the exhaust. I popped the hood, took off the lid and looked through the throttle body and into the intake manifold and there is a huge puddle of oil everywhere with metal shrouds in it. Any idea what might have happened? Here is my setup:
Dave's money maker kit with with 70 nitrous jet and 36 fuel jet.
FJO nitrous controller with wot switch and window switch from 4000-6000 rpms and it progresses 100 shot at 4000 to 150 shot at 4500. I had first gear lockout turned off because I was running slicks. I know both wires were setup correctly because the lights on the controller light up at the correct time. I know both solenoids work because I closed my bottle and did a short run and the fuel solenoid does squirt fuel into the intake.
NGK TR6 spark plugs gapped at .038".
4 degrees of timing pulled.
FJO wideband controller with lean/rich cutoff wired into nitrous controller. Cutoff is 12.0:1 and 15.0:1
Running 93 octane from BP. Stock fuel pump. I have a fuel pressure gauge and it dropped down to around 52 psi.
Dave's money maker kit with with 70 nitrous jet and 36 fuel jet.
FJO nitrous controller with wot switch and window switch from 4000-6000 rpms and it progresses 100 shot at 4000 to 150 shot at 4500. I had first gear lockout turned off because I was running slicks. I know both wires were setup correctly because the lights on the controller light up at the correct time. I know both solenoids work because I closed my bottle and did a short run and the fuel solenoid does squirt fuel into the intake.
NGK TR6 spark plugs gapped at .038".
4 degrees of timing pulled.
FJO wideband controller with lean/rich cutoff wired into nitrous controller. Cutoff is 12.0:1 and 15.0:1
Running 93 octane from BP. Stock fuel pump. I have a fuel pressure gauge and it dropped down to around 52 psi.
#2
Dave's money maker kit with with 70 nitrous jet and 36 fuel jet.
FJO nitrous controller with wot switch and window switch from 4000-6000 rpms and it progresses 100 shot at 4000 to 150 shot at 4500.
What mods to your engine. I used the same kit but with internal work and never broke anything other then a plug or 2. lol how many miles on your engine?? Sounds like you took out a piston. You ever put it on the dyno and look and see what the AF is?? Now i kinda ran into the same problem, but did not blow up, cause we found it on the dyno and shut it off before it blew up. It was my mistake, but where do you have the grounds for the sol and the FJO driver?? you will need something able to hold a 80amp draw. when i moved my ground to the chassie ground i was able to make it work. If not it would not spray correctly. LAst what was you bottle pressure?? what injectors you have and what fuel pump??
FJO nitrous controller with wot switch and window switch from 4000-6000 rpms and it progresses 100 shot at 4000 to 150 shot at 4500.
What mods to your engine. I used the same kit but with internal work and never broke anything other then a plug or 2. lol how many miles on your engine?? Sounds like you took out a piston. You ever put it on the dyno and look and see what the AF is?? Now i kinda ran into the same problem, but did not blow up, cause we found it on the dyno and shut it off before it blew up. It was my mistake, but where do you have the grounds for the sol and the FJO driver?? you will need something able to hold a 80amp draw. when i moved my ground to the chassie ground i was able to make it work. If not it would not spray correctly. LAst what was you bottle pressure?? what injectors you have and what fuel pump??
#4
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46,000 miles on my motor. My ground for the controller is just below the glove box on the right side. It's a big bolt sticking out and there was another ground wire there.
#7
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same thing happened to me in a way, i had white smoke and check engine was blinking while i was driving it home, but i didnt have metal anywhere.
i had oil in the exhaust and i pulled the passenger head off and #7 was chipped.
its just one of those bad things that happen, just an excuse to make it better
i had oil in the exhaust and i pulled the passenger head off and #7 was chipped.
its just one of those bad things that happen, just an excuse to make it better
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Originally Posted by bostonhatcher
One of the pieces of metal was a small donut chaped circle that looked like it came from a valve or pushrod. Another chunk looked like it came from a piston.
.
#12
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Hi guy's, I'm Bostons friend and was with him through all this last night and man everything was just spot on and he had his **** double checked especially because I was also in his *** checking everything behind him and there were no mistakes. It just doesn't make sense when he was running it as safe as you can possibly run it! He had EVERY safety device you can think of! Window switch and everything else already mentioned. I cant figure out why the failure or why it would have detonated if that's what it did. ****!
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Originally Posted by bostonhatcher
FJO wideband controller with lean/rich cutoff wired into nitrous controller. Cutoff is 12.0:1 and 15.0:1
Perhaps 10.5-12.5 would be a safer setting for the spray?
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Originally Posted by bostonhatcher
Here is my setup:
Stock fuel pump.
Stock fuel pump.
Nitrous didn't Blow Up your Motor (imho).....................
adding a nitrous kit and NOT addressing your fuel system blew your motor- get it right.
EVERY SINGLE PERSON I KNOW that has popped a motor on the jug did it because they neglected their fuel system.
$350 for a racetronix setup....... or $3500 for a new motor....hmmmmmm
tough choice if ya ask me.
good luck on the rebuild hopefully you've won some money with that money maker! lol
#18
Originally Posted by dame
DID ANYONE see this besides me.
Nitrous didn't Blow Up your Motor (imho).....................
adding a nitrous kit and NOT addressing your fuel system blew your motor- get it right.
EVERY SINGLE PERSON I KNOW that has popped a motor on the jug did it because they neglected their fuel system.
$350 for a racetronix setup....... or $3500 for a new motor....hmmmmmm
tough choice if ya ask me.
good luck on the rebuild hopefully you've won some money with that money maker! lol
Nitrous didn't Blow Up your Motor (imho).....................
adding a nitrous kit and NOT addressing your fuel system blew your motor- get it right.
EVERY SINGLE PERSON I KNOW that has popped a motor on the jug did it because they neglected their fuel system.
$350 for a racetronix setup....... or $3500 for a new motor....hmmmmmm
tough choice if ya ask me.
good luck on the rebuild hopefully you've won some money with that money maker! lol
#19
Originally Posted by dame
DID ANYONE see this besides me.
Nitrous didn't Blow Up your Motor (imho).....................
adding a nitrous kit and NOT addressing your fuel system blew your motor- get it right.
EVERY SINGLE PERSON I KNOW that has popped a motor on the jug did it because they neglected their fuel system.
$350 for a racetronix setup....... or $3500 for a new motor....hmmmmmm
tough choice if ya ask me.
good luck on the rebuild hopefully you've won some money with that money maker! lol
Nitrous didn't Blow Up your Motor (imho).....................
adding a nitrous kit and NOT addressing your fuel system blew your motor- get it right.
EVERY SINGLE PERSON I KNOW that has popped a motor on the jug did it because they neglected their fuel system.
$350 for a racetronix setup....... or $3500 for a new motor....hmmmmmm
tough choice if ya ask me.
good luck on the rebuild hopefully you've won some money with that money maker! lol
#20
Originally Posted by bostonhatcher
No I didn't have my labtop hooked up on that run. It ran fine the run before though.