Couple nitrous-related wiring questions
1. What fuse size should I put inline for the power for the main relay, and for the bottle heater relay?
2a. Can I jumper the grounds together on the switch panel I got from Nitro Dave? Basically run a single ground to one of the ground terminals, and then solder a short jumper from that one to the next, and so on? Can I also do this for 3 gauges?
2b. Can I jumper the switched 12v across the switch panel too? Can I do the same for gauges? Or is the current draw going to be too much for power source in either case?
3. Where are you guys picking up a switched 12v source? Should I splice into a line going to the back of the fuse panel?
4. For the constant 12V, should I just use the positive battery terminal? Can I use the positive post on the driver's side near the relay boxes? (I used it for my line lock)
I think thats it for now, I'll probably have a few more over the next couple months as I start the install. Thanks!
Not sure for 2A
just to be on the safe side I would not run a jumper for 2B
I ran mine from under the fuse box.(3)
I ran mine the same way. (4)
Here's what I did:
My AutoMeter electric gauges were rated at a max of 1 amp for nitrous pressure, 1 amp for fuel pressure and 5 amps for a/f. They all got grounded on the same bolt where some factory grounds pre-existed. 18 awg wire for all three, no longer than three feet of wire.
My bottle opener switch grounds were jumped together using a 16 awg wire. NX's opener, I think, is rated at 11 amps. I used a 15 amp fuse for it. My arming switch got a 5 amp fuse and the opener switch is jumped together with it, and leads to the bolt previously mentioned.
All of my relays got 16 gauge ground wires but were not jumped together, only fastened down on the same grounding bolt.
Yes you can jumper power circuits & ground circuits to a single feed or ground wire as long as the wire sizes and fuse sizes are correct.
http://www.rbeelectronics.com/wtable.htm





