What's the Main Killer?
What's the Main Killer? On a bottle fed motor, what is the main killer? I'm considering a shot of the giggly to help quench my power need. 
I want to set everything up properly and as safely as possible... I know, "If you can't pay don't spray" but I'd like to minimize what I have to pay so to speak. 
Please, all the gurus let me hear it. What's the main killer?
- Lean Condition and why? Inadequate fuel system, noid issues, etc...
- Incorrect tune
- Greed (I'm guessing this is way up there) getting greedy with either tuning via A/F ratio, timing or jet size.
I'd really like to pay extra attention to areas that the experienced nitrous users have seen first hand cause problems. That way if I do pop the motor I know that I did everything I could to prevent it.
If it helps here's what I'm looking at doing.
- TSP PRC LS6 heads
- MS3 or MS4 (still undecided)
- Upgraded fuel pump with hot wire kit
- TSP Dyno Tuning
- 100-150 shot of the gas
Thanks in advance.
I want to set everything up properly and as safely as possible... I know, "If you can't pay don't spray" but I'd like to minimize what I have to pay so to speak. Please, all the gurus let me hear it. What's the main killer?
- Lean Condition and why? Inadequate fuel system, noid issues, etc...
- Incorrect tune
- Greed (I'm guessing this is way up there) getting greedy with either tuning via A/F ratio, timing or jet size.
I'd really like to pay extra attention to areas that the experienced nitrous users have seen first hand cause problems. That way if I do pop the motor I know that I did everything I could to prevent it.
If it helps here's what I'm looking at doing.
- TSP PRC LS6 heads
- MS3 or MS4 (still undecided)
- Upgraded fuel pump with hot wire kit
- TSP Dyno Tuning
- 100-150 shot of the gas
Thanks in advance.
Detonation, imo. You have a pretty good idea of what your doing. Just watch the timing and a fuel system that can keep up is a must, also use a higher octane fuel if going big as a great safety item. The 100/150 area you suggest is a cake walk for our motors.
I also am looking at the Magic Stick 4, a great n/a and nitrous cam.
Robert
I also am looking at the Magic Stick 4, a great n/a and nitrous cam.
Robert
Thanks for the reply Robert.
Do you think I'd be smart to just do a stand alone fuel system with race gas in it, or would a replacement fuel pump like the Racetronix kit work? I'm thinking it might be best to do the fuel pump kit even if I do a stand alone. Once the H/C are in, do some datalogging on motor, watch the A/F and fuel pressure and go from there before I spray. Is there any way to gauge approximately how much fuel your average wet kit will need on top of what your motor demands? Even if I didn't necessarily need to swap the pump it will save me from a ruined track day or cruise when I least expect it.
Do you think I'd be smart to just do a stand alone fuel system with race gas in it, or would a replacement fuel pump like the Racetronix kit work? I'm thinking it might be best to do the fuel pump kit even if I do a stand alone. Once the H/C are in, do some datalogging on motor, watch the A/F and fuel pressure and go from there before I spray. Is there any way to gauge approximately how much fuel your average wet kit will need on top of what your motor demands? Even if I didn't necessarily need to swap the pump it will save me from a ruined track day or cruise when I least expect it.
Originally Posted by Demon_Speeding
Thanks for the reply Robert.
Do you think I'd be smart to just do a stand alone fuel system with race gas in it, or would a replacement fuel pump like the Racetronix kit work? I'm thinking it might be best to do the fuel pump kit even if I do a stand alone. Once the H/C are in, do some datalogging on motor, watch the A/F and fuel pressure and go from there before I spray. Is there any way to gauge approximately how much fuel your average wet kit will need on top of what your motor demands? Even if I didn't necessarily need to swap the pump it will save me from a ruined track day or cruise when I least expect it.
Do you think I'd be smart to just do a stand alone fuel system with race gas in it, or would a replacement fuel pump like the Racetronix kit work? I'm thinking it might be best to do the fuel pump kit even if I do a stand alone. Once the H/C are in, do some datalogging on motor, watch the A/F and fuel pressure and go from there before I spray. Is there any way to gauge approximately how much fuel your average wet kit will need on top of what your motor demands? Even if I didn't necessarily need to swap the pump it will save me from a ruined track day or cruise when I least expect it.
Robert
It looks like you have a pretty good grasp on things. Poor tunning or greed of hp level shots are normally the biggest killers.
I use dedicated fuel systems on all my personal cars. This way I can run good race gas to supply the nitrous side..
Dave
I use dedicated fuel systems on all my personal cars. This way I can run good race gas to supply the nitrous side..
Dave
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Verdad Gallardo Thanks for the reply. TSP does tune with a wideband. I didn't mention FPSS, Wideband O2, window switch or colder plugs because I feel those parts should be on any N2O setup. Thanks for looking out though Blake. 
That's why I love LS1Tech.
That's why I love LS1Tech. 
You are right on getting a wideband. Give careful consideration to the FJO 2 channel wideband. Not only does it have a built in TPS & window switch but the best part is you can set both rich and most improtantly lean parameters. If it gets beyond the limits you set it shuts the nitrous down. After reading my data logs there is no way you can read the AFR guage fast enough to save the motor if you go lean for any number of reason. I have had mine shut the system down and I never saw the AFR that the limit was set at. 
My motor probably would have been toast if I did not have the FJO unit.
There is one for sale in the parts section at a killer price.
My motor probably would have been toast if I did not have the FJO unit.
There is one for sale in the parts section at a killer price.
Originally Posted by terry s
You are right on getting a wideband. Give careful consideration to the FJO 2 channel wideband. Not only does it have a built in TPS & window switch but the best part is you can set both rich and most improtantly lean parameters. If it gets beyond the limits you set it shuts the nitrous down. After reading my data logs there is no way you can read the AFR guage fast enough to save the motor if you go lean for any number of reason. I have had mine shut the system down and I never saw the AFR that the limit was set at.
My motor probably would have been toast if I did not have the FJO unit.
There is one for sale in the parts section at a killer price.
My motor probably would have been toast if I did not have the FJO unit.
There is one for sale in the parts section at a killer price.
Originally Posted by Robert56@NitrousDirect
Detonation, imo. You have a pretty good idea of what your doing. Just watch the timing and a fuel system that can keep up is a must, also use a higher octane fuel if going big as a great safety item. The 100/150 area you suggest is a cake walk for our motors.
I also am looking at the Magic Stick 4, a great n/a and nitrous cam.
Robert
I also am looking at the Magic Stick 4, a great n/a and nitrous cam.
Robert
A wideband is a must IMO......
I agree. I was looking at the Dynojet WBC. I was dead set on it, because after reading their website it looked as though it could function as a window switch, TPS switch and kill the system if I went lean. Well it will shut the system down, however it will only start the spray as far as a window switch function. It won't shut it down. I did Email them for verification and that's what I was told. They did, however say they are looking at adding that into their software.
Could someone hook me up with a link to the FJO you speak of?
Thanks for all the replies.
Could someone hook me up with a link to the FJO you speak of?
Thanks for all the replies.
Originally Posted by Demon_Speeding
I agree. I was looking at the Dynojet WBC. I was dead set on it, because after reading their website it looked as though it could function as a window switch, TPS switch and kill the system if I went lean. Well it will shut the system down, however it will only start the spray as far as a window switch function. It won't shut it down. I did Email them for verification and that's what I was told. They did, however say they are looking at adding that into their software.
Could someone hook me up with a link to the FJO you speak of?
Thanks for all the replies.
Could someone hook me up with a link to the FJO you speak of?
Thanks for all the replies.
Try this. I was looking at the Dyno Jet also until I found out about FJO.
Here is next that is for sale.https://ls1tech.com/forums/lsx-parts-sale/613346-racing-parts-sale.html
Originally Posted by BLAKE 01 WS6
i have the msd digital window switch, but now am looking into that fjo.......
Their tech support is great. If you get one you could sell your window switch and get some of your $$ back. The FJO seems like quite an impressive piece of equipment. Does it have to be tied into a nitrous controller or can it just be hooked up to the nitrous system? The FJO site doesn't seem to say specifically, or maybe I'm just misunderstanding, but in next's thread he mentions an N2O controller. I'm going to Email next about his setup. That's a smoking deal!
Thanks again guys!
Thanks again guys!
Originally Posted by Demon_Speeding
The FJO seems like quite an impressive piece of equipment. Does it have to be tied into a nitrous controller or can it just be hooked up to the nitrous system? The FJO site doesn't seem to say specifically, or maybe I'm just misunderstanding, but in next's thread he mentions an N2O controller. I'm going to Email next about his setup. That's a smoking deal!
Thanks again guys!
Thanks again guys!
His post was a little confusing to me also. I thought he might be selling a controller instead. But picture of the manual looks just like the one I have for my wideband.