On a bottle fed motor, what is the main killer? I'm considering a shot of the giggly to help quench my power need. I want to set everything up properly and as safely as possible... I know, "If you can't pay don't spray" but I'd like to minimize what I have to pay so to speak.

Please, all the gurus let me hear it. What's the main killer?
- Lean Condition and why? Inadequate fuel system, noid issues, etc...
- Incorrect tune
- Greed (I'm guessing this is way up there) getting greedy with either tuning via A/F ratio, timing or jet size.

I'd really like to pay extra attention to areas that the experienced nitrous users have seen first hand cause problems. That way if I do pop the motor I know that I did everything I could to prevent it.

If it helps here's what I'm looking at doing.
- TSP PRC LS6 heads
- MS3 or MS4 (still undecided)
- Upgraded fuel pump with hot wire kit
- TSP Dyno Tuning
- 100-150 shot of the gas

Thanks in advance.

 

Detonation, imo. You have a pretty good idea of what your doing. Just watch the timing and a fuel system that can keep up is a must, also use a higher octane fuel if going big as a great safety item. The 100/150 area you suggest is a cake walk for our motors.
I also am looking at the Magic Stick 4, a great n/a and nitrous cam.
Robert

 

Thanks for the reply Robert.

Do you think I'd be smart to just do a stand alone fuel system with race gas in it, or would a replacement fuel pump like the Racetronix kit work? I'm thinking it might be best to do the fuel pump kit even if I do a stand alone. Once the H/C are in, do some datalogging on motor, watch the A/F and fuel pressure and go from there before I spray. Is there any way to gauge approximately how much fuel your average wet kit will need on top of what your motor demands? Even if I didn't necessarily need to swap the pump it will save me from a ruined track day or cruise when I least expect it.

 

Gonna have to keep an eye on you Demon...... What you listed there is the EXACT setup that i will be pursuing.


Keep us updated on how everything goes down.

 

Yea I would do exactly that, check your fuel pressure/a/f after a Racetronics install. If your falling off in pressure to much at high demand you'll see a lean condition. Then you can go to a stand alone or the return and reg at the rails if needed. Your likely to be in the 500+ hp range so checking all parameters as you go is wise.
Robert

 

It looks like you have a pretty good grasp on things. Poor tunning or greed of hp level shots are normally the biggest killers.

I use dedicated fuel systems on all my personal cars. This way I can run good race gas to supply the nitrous side..
Dave

 

Thanks for the responses and support guys! I can't wait to get this little project underway.

 

#1=detonation
get the fuel system upgrades u mentioned, stay conservative on the timing, GET A WIDEBAND DYNO TUNE!!!!
i would get a window switch as well!!

 

Thanks for the reply. TSP does tune with a wideband. I didn't mention FPSS, Wideband O2, window switch or colder plugs because I feel those parts should be on any N2O setup. Thanks for looking out though Blake. That's why I love LS1Tech.

 

You are right on getting a wideband. Give careful consideration to the FJO 2 channel wideband. Not only does it have a built in TPS & window switch but the best part is you can set both rich and most improtantly lean parameters. If it gets beyond the limits you set it shuts the nitrous down. After reading my data logs there is no way you can read the AFR guage fast enough to save the motor if you go lean for any number of reason. I have had mine shut the system down and I never saw the AFR that the limit was set at.

My motor probably would have been toast if I did not have the FJO unit.

There is one for sale in the parts section at a killer price.

 

Check out a wideband that shuts down your nos if your AFR is not were it needs to be.I seen next has a used setup forsale.

 

I belive next had a fjo to.Sounds like a nice setup.

 

A wideband is a must IMO......

 

I agree. I was looking at the Dynojet WBC. I was dead set on it, because after reading their website it looked as though it could function as a window switch, TPS switch and kill the system if I went lean. Well it will shut the system down, however it will only start the spray as far as a window switch function. It won't shut it down. I did Email them for verification and that's what I was told. They did, however say they are looking at adding that into their software.

Could someone hook me up with a link to the FJO you speak of?

Thanks for all the replies.

 

http://www.fjoracing.com/products/WBAFR/

Try this. I was looking at the Dyno Jet also until I found out about FJO.

 

Here is next that is for sale.https://ls1tech.com/forums/lsx-parts-sale/613346-racing-parts-sale.html

 

i have the msd digital window switch, but now am looking into that fjo.......

 

I think you will like what you see. Their tech support is great. If you get one you could sell your window switch and get some of your $$ back.

 

The FJO seems like quite an impressive piece of equipment. Does it have to be tied into a nitrous controller or can it just be hooked up to the nitrous system? The FJO site doesn't seem to say specifically, or maybe I'm just misunderstanding, but in next's thread he mentions an N2O controller. I'm going to Email next about his setup. That's a smoking deal!

Thanks again guys!

 

No it does not have to be used with a controller. I do not have a cotroller hooked up to mine. Also if they ever update their software they will give you the up date for free. They recently added the TPS & window switch features. If you have an older unit they will give you the up date for free.

His post was a little confusing to me also. I thought he might be selling a controller instead. But picture of the manual looks just like the one I have for my wideband.