Ok, i'm having issues with the dry shot surging, I had never run it alone before, so dunno if it's something up with the kit or what.

Thought maybe it was the wot switch, put a new one on, still does it, took window switch off and tested everything with a test light and all is fine with power and pulled lid off and sprayed for 20 seconds or so and it's fine, steady flow, so hooked window switch back up went and tested and it surged, so took window switch back off, went and tested and it surged.

Dunno what's up with this thing, what else can cause it? It's really fast surging, kind of sounds like i'm pedaling it super fast.

Gonna try a new relay and if that don't work i'm stumped.

Any suggestions, thanks guys!

 

Ok, I hooked my indicator light that I have in my dash back up and took it for a run and the light was blinking while it was surging, yet when I got home I let all the nitrous out of the line, turned the key to accesories on armed the nitrous and mashed the pedal and held it for like 10 seconds and it lit up bright and stayed on, so i'm gettin really confused now!

 

Is your indicater light hooked up directly to your noid? if so sounds like power is being interupted for some reason ie: relay, wiring, noid, fpss?
Robert

 

FPSS would be my first guess.

 

No FPSS

 

Yup, the indicator light is piggybacked into the wire goin from the relay to the noid. I tried swapping to another relay I already had in the car, but maybe that one's bad too, i'll try and get a brand new one and see what happens. I just can't figure out why it's perfect while sittin with the car off, but when I go and run it it flickers. I see you said noid, could a bad noid cause this, figured a bad noid could surge, but then the light wouldn't flicker, right? The light flickering tells me electrical.

 

If your not getting a good ground that can cause the flickering. Could be an internal short on noid, or the ground from the noid. You could hook a test light to the un hooked hot wire going to noid. Meaning test light inline after the relay in place of the noid then see if it still flickers (you'll only flow enough power to light test light so no worry). If it does still flicker, then it's relay back. If it lights and stays lite, then it's noid and/or ground or wiring to noid. Hope this makes sense.
Robert

 

I think my indicator light is already hooked to that wire, I have it spliced into the wire comin out of the noid that connects to the relay in terminal 87.

I don't think it's the relay, cuz I put a brand new relay in and it's doing the same thing. Also, I have a test light that lights and beeps, now I don't know what it means if it doesn't beep, but sometimes it beeps and sometimes it doesn't if I use that to test this from the engine bay, does that indicate anything, not sure what the beep means.

 

Cool, but what we are doing is eliminating the noid and it's ground, as the system, even your test light is using the ground on the other side of the noid? correct? if light has a seperate ground, or rather it's own ground and not going to noid then I would say it's relay back. Then eliminate the WS. Which ws? you can use a jumper to bypass ws.
Robert
Edit: I just reread your last post. you have your light on the ground side of the noid. Move it to the 87 terminal then to ground, with nothing going to noid. Then you'll see if it still flickers. Just unhook wire to noid and replace with a test light to ground.

 

My indicator light on my switch panel is grounded inside the car, do you still want me to unhook the noid and put the lite on there w/o the noid? I just went out and tested it without opening the bottle and it flickered, but not as bad, so i'm still goin crazy here, cuz I can't understand why the hell it will work when i'm not goin anywhere, but while on the road it flickers, could there be a voltage issue with my car dropping when at wot? I mean i've never had a problem before, but dunno. Any way to log voltage with autotap? Oh and I already bypassed the window switch and left it off for all the rest of this trial, so it's not the window switch. Could I have messed up the wot switch somehow, I did by accident ground the test light while on it testin it when I first put it on and it sparked, but I would think it wouldn't work at all. Should I try another new wot switch?

 

I think you have your light wired up the same way I do. You should be able to unhook your noid ground and your light should still come on (I have mine this way for testing if it's noids or wiring/ws/relay problems causing n20 to not work). Could be a loose wire or connector somewhere in the path from power to ground. You'll just have to start at the begining and bypass each stage of wiring with a known good jumper and see if you can find it. Wiring issues can be a real pain in the azz.
Robert

 

Ah yes, didn't think about that, so if I disconnect the ground on the noid and the light comes on and stays perfect, that means the noid is f'd right?

 

Yes, as long as it has it's own ground.
Robert

 

Cool, thanks Robert, i'll test it out when I get up in the morn!

 

Ok, I tested everything out today and was about ready to give up and then I decided, let me just rule out the wot switch even though I just replaced it and put the power from the arming switch right into the relay and went out testing, flipped it on while driving around, light stayed solid, hit the highway and took all the way through 2nd and 3rd and the light stayed solid, so now i'm confused, wtf!!!

 

OMG, it's a f'ing miracle, I finally got it fixed!!!!

I got to thinkin, the ****** wot switch is brand new, can't be bad, only diff between now and before is where the switch bracket is mounted (put it on the bolt for the front coolant plug instead of on the throttle cable bracket). So I put it back on the throttle cable bracket (had to bend and twist the **** out of it to get it to line up right and work, but got it) and took it out for a run and sure enough, it worked perfect, light stayed lit the entire time! So the only thing I can think of is that either the bracket was moving from gettin pushed against since it was stickin up instead of hangin down, or maybe there was too much vibration goin through it from bein mounted to the motor ****** up the connection, dunno, but all I care is that it's working, just gotta hook the noid and everything back up and test it out with some spray!

 

Awesome...way to troubleshoot! Troubleshooting many times is just going out and trying stuff...and eliminating stuff...and generally youll stumble on it.

 

Yeah dude, it's just tedious usually. At one point I was thinkin maybe the voltage of the car was having an issue, so I tested with a multimeter while car was off and while car was on, all was fine, so I then found a option in autotap to read voltage so I could see where it was at while at wot and make sure it wasn't dippin too much and it was fine, so I had basically ruled out everything but that last little part of where it was mounted, still not sure if it's possible it could've been moving, i'm leaning more likely toward possibly more vibrations being mounted to the motor than bein mounted to the throttle cable bracket and interrupting signal since it worked fine with the car off and sitting in place mashing the throttle, but who knows?!

 

I would lean towards the ground not being good enough too...... Some thing will happen when you put a high wattage stereo in a car and the ground isn't sufficient=surging sound and distortion..... Look at the most simple things 1st, it's very simple to move the ground, hell try the ground right off of the battery to see if it works, if it does, problem solved.

 

Doubt it, rewired it like 3 or 4 times and the ground is on the little stud stickin up on the passenger side wheel well area where there are other grounds, nothing worked till I moved the bracket.

And if it was the ground why would it work when the car was off and sittin still in the driveway?