Part one here is mostly for Beer99 and Robert56.. This is my first logging with hptuner. Unfortunately I didn't get to leave it open for a really long run and I don't have the WB (buddies and not avail.. hope I can win it from DT). Injector duty at 87%. This was on 100hp shot N2o however bottle is getting a little empty and pressure is only about 800psi. (heated) I have NO idea what the rest of this graph is trying to tell me... other than I'm really stupid.

Part 2: On my initial recording of the pcm, it came back with GEARING=3.42. Ok, well that's just not possible. I just switched to 3.42s and haven't programmed for them. It had 2.73s. My old hypertech (which was reset and sold) would only program up to 3.15s so it is not possible that it didn't clear out when resetting back to ground 0.
Anyone have any ideas on 1) how it misreads it? and 2) how the h'll do I set it for 3.42s when it already says 3.42. (I tried to set it to 3.73 and then, w/o driving it, wrote it again to 3.42) -any help here would be greatly appreciated.

 

Don't worry about it Todd, you took the hardest step and thats to try!
The Injector Duty Cycle using the 28's over the stock 26's?

Time to put some miles on the car and fine tune the VE tables and then the MAF Table. Then the PE, then the tune for Nitrous...now get to work LOL.

 

that's with the 26 lb injectors. Haven't got the time to swap inj. for a week or two. Have to stick to the 100 shot for now.

 

You can get an idea of a/f with your narrow band o2's. Here are the about's, .880/.890 is 12.8:1/12.9:1, .800 is leaner about 13.1:1 and .900 is richer about 12.5:1. You can get a feel for where your at, but the problem with NB o2's is the farther you get from stochimetric 14.7:1 the less accurate they become, but better than nothing.

Running at 87% duty cycle really is nothing to worry about as you only do it for a brief period and your not going to wear out your injectors. Just stay away from going static area (100%).

Yep, rescale for your upsized injectors, then do as Beer suggested a full tune. There is a learning curve for sure, but just take your time and it will come. Do you have the injector spread sheet, or the known numbers to just punch in?

Not sure what to say on the gears? Maybe ask over in the tune section if someone else has had a similar issue/problem. Good luck and keep us updated.

One other area to address for dry hits to get rid of a potential lean spike is to set PE enable rpm. Power Enrichment Enable RPM, you'll see it in your PE Fuel Multiplier section. PE multiplier is just that, a number that is used to multiply by stochi 14.7. Say you want a commanded 12.5:1 a/f at wide open throttle, then you put a multiplier in at the rpms selected of like 1.17 (14.7 / 1.170 = 12.56 commaned wot a/f). Now that your confused, what we want to do is make sure the commanded richer wot a/f comes on at before nitrous low rpm ws. So say you activate your n2o at 3200rpm, then set your PE Enable RPM to about 2800rpm. This way you'll minimize and/or eliminate any lean spike from activating the spray. Sorry if this is a little confusing, but from your input on threads, I think you'll see exactly what I am talking about once you get to this section, if you haven't allready.
Robert

 

I do have a nb gauge (just for a go/no-go situation) but don't know how to feed that into HPt. ideas? It reads near "RICH" under wot... with and without N2o. I can put my digital DVM on there and just read the voltage... if that will work.
As for the tables... well I kinda get what you're talking about. Didn't totally loose me. Beer gave me the tables for the 28 lb injectors. Like with the n2o, I'll read/learn a lot more before f'n with it. I know "book smart" isn't as good as "street smart" but it gives me a place to start.
From the looks of my log, I don't see anything too scary.

 

Your table shows .890mV (milla volt) for your NB o2's, this is a tad lean if this was a spray log (about 12.9:1 a/f).
Robert

 

ya. it was on spray but didn't make a really long run out of it. The fwy seems to get a LOT smaller when juicin up. LOL. The 890 was the worst spot, but I'm sure I can adjust that a little bit.

 

And that can be controled with your PE multiplier, if nozzle adjustment is out of the question. It may be set for leanish running, but with (backwards math) formula above you can see exactly what your commanded wot a/f is set at in multipe rpm ranges.
Robert

 

On manual tranny vettes, the computer will calculate the rear diff ratios. Should be close to the same process on autos, only factoring shift point into account.

Logging off the narrowbands is tricky at best. As most sensors will have a % of deviation between them. But as Robert has posted, the general areas are reasonably close. Now does the car feel strong at the lower bottle pressure?

 

Sorta off subject, but is the KR false? Looks like it sticks around throgh the whole WOT run, but it's a little hard to see in the pic.

Matt

 

It looks awfully real to me... It hit what looks like full KR just after the shift extension. The extension is low, looks like a stock stalled car and it still has tq. mngmnt. The quick jump in timing under the load (something like 0-25deg all at once) is not ideal. Some of that early KR may be staved off with just fattening it up. I wouldn't spray again until at least making a change to the PE table. I'd have a good look at the cells that the KR occurred as well, particularly the area of the map around that shift extension. It's good software to have; now use it

 

If his VE and MAF cal are stock (well, not tuned) though, he won't be hitting commanded AFR in PE, especially not if he has mods. Until he learns to do or does the full tune, I'd say multipy the PE number across the board with the NB o2 deviation %. I know this doesn't take the MAF into account, but it will get the desired result with a try or so.

To be more clear to the poster, your NB o2's are reading 890 where you have the bar at, but looking, they get leaner as the pull goes... If for instance they are down in the 870 range, but you want to see something like 920s (I don't know where you want to be, but it's at LEAST where I'd want to be), try adding about 5% to the PE and then logging (920 is a little more than 5% bigger than 870). Just highlight the areas in question and multiply by 1.05.

 

yes, the car hit fairly hard on this run however I could tell it was down from a high bottle pressure run. And yes, I accidentally left the TC on. I still have to finish my 'auto TC off' circuit I'm building.

Getting in there to fatten up the PE tables as described. Should that be in "PE Enable TPS HOT" or "PE Enable TPS cold"?? From 2800 rpm up. Although I understand the PE rpm setting described, I can't find it in the program. The help file keeps sending me to "Delay RPM" or the "MAP kPa". I'm still looking for the box that says PE Enable RPM. errrr.
Totally fricken frustrated. Isn't there a book on this?? The help files are helpful, if you already know what you're doing.

 

I think he means to fatten up you afr when the nitrous kicks in to help prevent a temporary lean spike.

 

ok.. well... I fattened it up by 1.17 and although I got my O2 voltage at 933mV, my duty cycle jumped up to 104%... eeek.
I backed it off and fattened up the stock setting by 1.05. My O2 voltage is at 907mV and DC at 94%. better?

 

It's better, but that MAF is gonna a bitch to calibrate. It's part of what is causing the skew from desired. The PE enable tab should be on the fuel tab that the PE table itself is on. This tab may vary some from year to year.

 

Need to just do your full tune, start to finish and everything will fall into order. The help files in the stickies in tune section will walk ya through step by step. Ya finding your way around at first is a little frustrating, but you'll get there. Did your KR go away once you fattened it up?
Robert

 

ya.. riiiight. Taking it one step at a time. Don't want to dive in the deep end before I know how to swim a little.
I don't recall where the KR was. Where should it be? I have the files at home (I'm at work.. or w/e you'd want to call it..LOL)

Frost - adjusting my MAF? I looked at my numbers from the N2o run and a N/A run. (comparing the two using N/A as a baseline). The MAF readings didn't change much. I'll have to see if I can find some info to know what/why you're talking about. Sorry.. over my head at this point.

Today is my day of reading. I'll check out some of the stickies. HPt help is great.. if you know what you're looking at. Doesn't explain "what & why".. just "how".

 

Should be a 0%. Looks like you have 2%-2.5% through out the entire WOT run. To be brutely honest with you, with out a wideband your shooting in the dark. If you can pick one up/borrow one by all means do so, as a last resort get some dyno time and do your tunning off that. Get her dialed in NA first, do you get any KR NA, or do you only get it when spraying? Once she is ready NA you should be able to spray her and get a nice fat A/F without loading up the EQ Vs. RPM table. If you don't it's a nozzle placement issue.

Matt

 

I know.. and I am shooting in the dark here. That's why I'm just making little changes until I can get a WB (of my own) and do a "full tune". I'm just a little constipated right now because the $$$ isn't spewing out of my...
Maybe I'll win DTs. LOL.