Dry and wet questions
I wanna know if you can put on bigger injectors like 36LBS or 42LBS and run them for an hour or two to the tuner? But then again, I've got a '98 with the 28LBS injectors and only want to do a 100 dry shot, so I don't even think I need bigger injectors or fuel pump... but then again, I'm at 385hp & 384tq N/A right now...?
Last edited by SPECIALIZED STAINLESS; Dec 16, 2006 at 08:25 PM.
Originally Posted by Robert56@NitrousDirect
But the proven nozzle location is correct right? You had 11.5:1 a/f with the 50 shot, then ran out of injector on the 75 shot . Once the injectors were upsized, the location was still correct for proper a/f right?
Once we have the injectors then we can safely increase the nitrous jet size (after a/f is checked).
Once we have the injectors then we can safely increase the nitrous jet size (after a/f is checked).
That is my point...
You are saying show me someone who blew their motor using a dry system.
I could have been one of these guys on a mere 75 shot on a stock motor, had I done so, the first reply from most would be "it must not have been set up right"...which it is.
Thankfully I had everything checked out with troubleshooting and eventually fixed what could have been a major problem, but only after I spent $100 on various different nozzles, and ultimately EFI Scan (another couple hundred dollars, w/ the tuning software even a bit more) identified the IDC as exceeding 100% (even with the 50 Dry shot), then just under $300 for new injectors...
I am glad I had the resources to stick with the dry, but I stick with wet being easier to set up and working right out of the box.
Planning on doing the EFI Live Scan/Tune COS, and having a toggle for NA Tune/ N20 Tune on a full face panel (being cut this time home). This is going give me great flexibility with the two stage, 100 shot using the NA tune and then when I want two stage (additional 50-100 shot), just flip the switch for the combined shots w/ pulled timing and other custom Maps
While I am in the PCM I am going to try and route my Fuel Pressure volts to be read by the EGR feed in the PCM, to free up an input to maybe get a bottle pressure logging input 
. So many things to do, so little time Home
. 
Originally Posted by Beer99C5
That is my point...
You are saying show me someone who blew their motor using a dry system.
I could have been one of these guys on a mere 75 shot on a stock motor, had I done so, the first reply from most would be "it must not have been set up right"...which it is.
But it wasn't set up correctly if the fuel system was not up to par. A 75 shot and 13 to 1 a/f ratio would not have hurt your motor anyway, ask me how I know, however, 13 is not good at this level unless you are NHRA bound looking for the world championship. The clyinder pressures weren't high enough. Just look at the a/f a n/a motor runs at 450rwhp. One guy that used to post was running a 200 shot on stock 28's and had 120 or 130% duty cycle, he never had any problems that he ever reported, don't know what his a/f was, but...(it was a vette too)
Now don't get me wrong, Beer, you did a wonderfull and correct set-up, making all the right choices along the way. I was just/am trying to clarify for those reading along, and not trying to put you or your set-up down.
Thankfully I had everything checked out with troubleshooting and eventually fixed what could have been a major problem, but only after I spent $100 on various different nozzles, and ultimately EFI Scan (another couple hundred dollars, w/ the tuning software even a bit more) identified the IDC as exceeding 100% (even with the 50 Dry shot), then just under $300 for new injectors...
Not trying to be argumentive Beer, but this is why we tell everyone to log or dyno for a/f, kr and DC (where needed). Your choice to buy different nozzles was your choice and not indicitive to how hard a dry is to set up. I could swear your posted sheets of past did not show exceeding 100% DC on a 50?
I am glad I had the resources to stick with the dry, but I stick with wet being easier to set up and working right out of the box.
A buddy of mine just bought a kit from a diff vendor, a wet kit. Well it's a good thing we took it to the dyno because he wanted to run the 200 jets. It was waaaay lean using the jet card and jets out of the box. We aborted the run because surely he would have toasted his motor at this HP level. We also had a terrible lean spike on the 150 and 200 hits (by the way, the 150 was off out of the box also). So we found out that he needed a fuel pump, the return and reg at the rails, and more different sized jets to correct a/f. I don't want any one to think that a wet kit somehow is problem free from the get go, because just like your experiance with the dry, the wet also can take some effort and time to set up. Out side of adding the upsized injetors for a dry if/when needed, yes a simple jet change can be made if a person has a wide band for wet hits making it easier.
Planning on doing the EFI Live Scan/Tune COS, and having a toggle for NA Tune/ N20 Tune on a full face panel (being cut this time home). This is going give me great flexibility with the two stage, 100 shot using the NA tune and then when I want two stage (additional 50-100 shot), just flip the switch for the combined shots w/ pulled timing and other custom Maps While I am in the PCM I am going to try and route my Fuel Pressure volts to be read by the EGR feed in the PCM, to free up an input to maybe get a bottle pressure logging input .
Now that is really cool, and I am thinking about doing the same mod for my WB, or just upgrading my HPT cable. Keep us updated on your tuning prowess, as this will help us all out.
So many things to do, so little time Home.
You are saying show me someone who blew their motor using a dry system.
I could have been one of these guys on a mere 75 shot on a stock motor, had I done so, the first reply from most would be "it must not have been set up right"...which it is.
But it wasn't set up correctly if the fuel system was not up to par. A 75 shot and 13 to 1 a/f ratio would not have hurt your motor anyway, ask me how I know, however, 13 is not good at this level unless you are NHRA bound looking for the world championship. The clyinder pressures weren't high enough. Just look at the a/f a n/a motor runs at 450rwhp. One guy that used to post was running a 200 shot on stock 28's and had 120 or 130% duty cycle, he never had any problems that he ever reported, don't know what his a/f was, but...(it was a vette too)
Now don't get me wrong, Beer, you did a wonderfull and correct set-up, making all the right choices along the way. I was just/am trying to clarify for those reading along, and not trying to put you or your set-up down.
Thankfully I had everything checked out with troubleshooting and eventually fixed what could have been a major problem, but only after I spent $100 on various different nozzles, and ultimately EFI Scan (another couple hundred dollars, w/ the tuning software even a bit more) identified the IDC as exceeding 100% (even with the 50 Dry shot), then just under $300 for new injectors...
Not trying to be argumentive Beer, but this is why we tell everyone to log or dyno for a/f, kr and DC (where needed). Your choice to buy different nozzles was your choice and not indicitive to how hard a dry is to set up. I could swear your posted sheets of past did not show exceeding 100% DC on a 50?
I am glad I had the resources to stick with the dry, but I stick with wet being easier to set up and working right out of the box.
A buddy of mine just bought a kit from a diff vendor, a wet kit. Well it's a good thing we took it to the dyno because he wanted to run the 200 jets. It was waaaay lean using the jet card and jets out of the box. We aborted the run because surely he would have toasted his motor at this HP level. We also had a terrible lean spike on the 150 and 200 hits (by the way, the 150 was off out of the box also). So we found out that he needed a fuel pump, the return and reg at the rails, and more different sized jets to correct a/f. I don't want any one to think that a wet kit somehow is problem free from the get go, because just like your experiance with the dry, the wet also can take some effort and time to set up. Out side of adding the upsized injetors for a dry if/when needed, yes a simple jet change can be made if a person has a wide band for wet hits making it easier.
Planning on doing the EFI Live Scan/Tune COS, and having a toggle for NA Tune/ N20 Tune on a full face panel (being cut this time home). This is going give me great flexibility with the two stage, 100 shot using the NA tune and then when I want two stage (additional 50-100 shot), just flip the switch for the combined shots w/ pulled timing and other custom Maps
While I am in the PCM I am going to try and route my Fuel Pressure volts to be read by the EGR feed in the PCM, to free up an input to maybe get a bottle pressure logging input . Now that is really cool, and I am thinking about doing the same mod for my WB, or just upgrading my HPT cable. Keep us updated on your tuning prowess, as this will help us all out.
So many things to do, so little time Home
.
