Looks like I'll be getting my hsw dual nozzle dry kit by the end of the week hopefully. I had a quick question on my maf. I've looked around and it seems as though you guys suggest that all mafs be descreened on dry setups to prevent them from icing over and clogging the air intake tract. Thing is I have an SLP maf (80 or 85 mm I believe). I have no problem attempting to descreen this maf but wanted to know if you guys had any experience or insights with this maf descreened on a dry setup. Would I run into any problems as far as running lean with the bigger maf while spraying?

My mods as far as power goes are minimal. Lid/filter, SLP MAF, and a cat back. I plan on spraying a 100 shot.

 

I descreened the factory one no problem.

Check with Matt from HSW and see what he recommends. Why not contact SLP and find out what they think also? I am sure it would not be the first time they were asked it.

From what I read is on straight intakes like the F body, or the Vette, the screen is not really needed.

For trucks that have a 90° elbow in the intake tract the screen supposedly helps straighten the airflow and descreening is not recommended.

 

I personally have not had good luck in putting a large descreened MAF on a car that used a small MAF...and then spraying it. Atleast not without tuning. Just start small and be careful.

 

After market MAFs are problematic at best.
Robert

 

What problems did you run into? I'd like to do the first sprays on a dyno that can monitor a/f while spraying. If I can I'm going to try to start with the small pills and work my way up to 100 (50, 75, then 100).

Details please. I still have the stock maf but I've kinda got this thing for keeping my stock parts in tact. Heck, I've even got the stock muffler setup sitting in my basement. If using the aftermarket maf is problematic then I'll descreen the stocker and use it but I'd like to know how the bigger aftermarket mafs are problematic.

 

Usually what I have seen...even with my own car when I tried a larger descreened on.....is it wont be a flat line. It may start at 13 to 1 and then by 6000 rpm progressively go to 12 to 1. or the other way areound. I have just had a hard time keeping the AF consistant. I have seen some work fine though. And od course I have seen people fix everything through tuning as well.

If I were you id start with a 50-75 shot on the dyno with the aftermarket MAF and see what happens. if it works well...go up to the shot size you want. But bring your stock MAF. If the big one is acting flaky....swap the small one in (descreeened) and try that.

 

It's getting them tuned into your system that's the real bear. Most guys give up and go back to stock, and stock maf tables. I think most of the aftermarket mafs use a resistor on the maf to try to use the stock maf tables. But the MAF tables really need to be rescaled. Even when rescaling, the problem Al said still will happen. If it were my set-up I would just use the stocker, as likely you are not going to be needing a bigger one anyway, so real gains.
Robert

 

The best solution is to get rid of the damned thing all-together.

 

Most people wont have that capability through.

Regular dry through the MAf is what 99% of how people will use dry. But it certainly leaves a few things to be desired.

 

Thanks for the responses so far. If I were to bring both mafs to the dyno and swapped back to the smaller one, how long would it take for the car to adjust back to the stock maf or is it instant?

 

Just do an all motor pull on the stock MAF after swapping back to make sure its working properly.

 

I never cared for any of the aftermarket mass air meters.I wouls sell it and put the stock on back on. Or if looking for a bigger maff to match a 90mm set up go to the GM 85mm maf.
Dave

 

Do you guys think I'd be losing any N/A power by switching back to the stock maf? What are the stockers good up to anyway (rwhp wise)?

 

The question could be, would I gain any hp from adding an afermarket MAF, no. I think Al did like 750rwhp, and other shave gone even further.
Robert

 

Based on what you guys say I'm tempted to sell my SLP maf and just descreen the stocker and run it. Maybe I can get enough cash on the SLP unit to pay for a window switch. I tried but couldnt find any how to's on removing the maf screen. Does the thing just pop off? Also what do you think I should sell the SLP Maf for? They're going for 195 new.

 

I would guess it would bring 125 used.
Just take a screwdriver and poke a hole in the screen and pry it out. be careful not to hit the maff wires.
Dave

 

Cool thanks. I'm just putting together a list of things I still need/want to get and ran across another question. For sparkplugs everyone seems to recommend NGK TR6. I was looking at the vendor that sold me my dry kit and they have these for 2 bucks each. They also have TR6IX (iridium) plugs. Are the regular TR6s what everyones using or are the iridiums recommended?

 

Bump and another question. I just descreened my maf and got it hooked up but was wondering about the position of the maf. Does it matter what direction its oriented? I mean the flow directions right but does it matter if that divider in the middle cuts up/down or does it have to be horizontal to get the best reading off of a dual nozzle dry kit?

 

Most use the standard NGK Tr6. Horizontal on the MAF, as per stock.
Robert