I've done a lot of research on nitrous. I've also done a lot of searching. I remember a thread about people having problems with their dry kit. It also seems to be the Vettes having problems with their nozzles not spraying directly into the MAF. I've also seen in that thread w/ the F-Bods not spraying directly into the MAF, and in turn running insanely lean for both vehicles.

Ok, enough w/ that. I'm looking into a dry kit. I find the idea of raw fuel in my intake unsettling, and fuel is heavier than nitrous. I've done a LOT of research that crossed into dry and wet fluid physics. Anyway. Any suggestions for when I finally get the kit installed. I do plan on getting it tuned before I spray it. I'd rather have the pro's mess w/ it to have it dialed in right. I don't want to melt my pistons on the first shot...

I have a stock descreened MAF, all stock fuel system. My car and all it's components have 36k miles on them. All I really have is a Lid, bellows, P+P'd TB, LS1 Edit, full suspension, stock rear, and a full exhaust. I understand that the dry nozzles are supposed to be mounted 3" before the MAF. Any pics of a well running dry system nozzle placement on F-Bodys?


Any suggestions on other modifications to get the system to run peak?

Thanx guys/gals.

 

on the harris speed works site they have pics of a proper install on a dry kit, both single and dual nozzle. and FWIW they have the best prices around, as well as awesome support. give them a try.
www.harrisspeedworks.com

 

From the HSW site. proper placement of a single nozzle

 

Nozzle placement will also be dependent on what style dry nozzle is being used. Our dry kit instructions have some pictures/diagrams for nozzle placement as far as A/F ratio on a LS1 lid. Have a few picts here:

http://www.harrisspeedworks.com/gall...dex.php?cat=21

Thanks,
Matt

 

there ya go, thanks matt. didnt mean to be the "advertiser" guy. haha but i figured what better place to go

 

Spraying into the middle of the air box often leads to lean a/f as the n2o gets diluted with incoming air and then a poor reading. In the neck with a 70* or 90* nozzle(s) will allow a richer mix to be had by allowing the MAF to read a colder/denser hit. This is true on the vettes and/or f-bods.
Robert

 

^ Ok, That's what I was wondering. The nozzles on the side of the lid didn't seem right. What about sicking them around where the IAT goes? Or is that too close? I've got my MAF plugged into my lid.

THe dry system can't be just plug and play, tho. Anything else needed besides a tune? Size injectors for 150 and under?

 

You can place them near the IAT, not a problem, I ahve mine 3 inches from IAT and no issues.
The dry as a plug and play, yes and no. Small hits that won't tax the fuel system, yea maybe, but I still allways suggest logging for a/f, kr and DC. the same goes for a wet hit, it should be checked also.
Here is the math for sizing injectors
(projected crank hp x .5) / 6.4 = min inject to meet 80% duty cycle rule
Robert

 

If I do a 100 shot off the bat, would a tune be advised? I have an ideal position in mind for the nozzles. I really need this kit like Napoleon needs a life! If I can get it for cheap, then all hell will break loose!... .....

 

Not to hijack the thread, but is it possible to install a dry kit on a K&N FIPK cold air intake kit? Thats what i currently have. Still own the stock airbox though.

 

I have the HSW dry kit. My nozzle is next to my IAT sensor and I have tried numerous directions to point it. Whsat has worked best for me is to point it directly @ the IAT istead of directly into the MAF. Ran a best of 12.2 pointing directly into the MAF, changed it to point @ the IAT and ran a couple 11.7x's before the tranny went south. Take it FWIW, I haven't logged a nitrous run yet, but the tune is pretty conservative and I have no KR.

 

.........ttt

 

I think it's more a matter of rotating the nozzle rather than the IAT doing anything to increase power/time. Should really be doing this with a a/f log, as you may have just leaned it out to get some unsafe additional power. From my experiance, pointing at MAF and getting targeted a/f dialed in works best, then if you want to increase power to get quicker ETs you know all you have to do is up size the n2o jet and more power will be had safely. Also, day to day can change your ET.
Robert

 

A tune is always a good idea with any amount of nitrous.
As long as you're running good fuel you should be ok with KR though, but atleast hooking a scanner up to it at some point would be advised so you can make sure everything is working properly (better to be safe than sorry).

 

makes me wonder, then, if maybe i am freezing the IAT with it being where i have it and why the car laid over by the 1/8 mile on both stages. then again, the angle of attack with this nozzle being a 70*doesn't make it a good shot towards the MAF. any closer and it'll be right behind the IAT to get it close enough. could always move it to the other side across from the IAT.

 

Mrr23, I think your correct. I would move closer, go to other side and change to a 90*. Or index current nozzle and try rotating and check a/f and/or try a 90* in that location. Looks like the distant your at and running a 70* the nitrous is diluted with incoming air and thus a poor MAF reading.
Robert

 

and to think, i tried to avoid that when i started the whole dry vs wet ordeal.

 

Yea, I remember. I am sure it's nothing big, the 90* may just cure it in it's current spot? Here's another idea/option, just add another nozzle to the other side closer and go dual nozzle. That's how my 1st stage is, one 90* nozzle and one straight shooter for a 11.5:1 ratio from the get go.
Robert

 

no biggie, i've got something else in the works for now.