Something for everyonr to consider is the jetting suggestions from the manufactures are a starting point, not an absolute. Furthermore, when one company uses 900psi, another 950 then another 1050 you can see how the variations occur. Also, there is a ratio of fuel jet to n2o jet this is slightly different from one company to another. Also, some companys rate at the flywheel, some under rate at rear wheels. So there is no absolute calculator or math that will cover all kits, in all situations. I see Cat came around and showed his real class that he normally posses.
Robert

 

Robert, thanks for the kind words, I appreciate it. Also, just as Robert said, and I believe I touched on, the absolute best way for dry, is use the chart/calc. for a baseline, and then dyno, while attempting to keep the BP stabil throughout the dyno to find out how your setup responds to jetting versus: Bottle pressure, nozzle placement, type of lines, solenoids, nozzles, jets, distance of nozzle from MAF etc....

 

My kit is kind of a bastard kit. It started out as a Compucar Dry kit, but I got rid of the tiny black line and ran all braided stainless from the bottle to the filter. The solenoid is mounted right on the air filter and pointed right at the MAF. I got rid of alot of restrictions that way so I could flow more N2O. So my "kit" realy isnt normal. It uses NOS style jets an has the same solenoid. I know with the regular kit I was told not to use a jet at all to get 225hp shot back when I ran it on my silvy.

 

If you look at the pic in my sig...that also is a bastard kit. Once 5177, then split the noids, for 2stages, ran both jetless. Was supposed to be quite nice hit, but most I got was about 240rwhp...bottle pressure drops too quick w/o a heater (forgot to keep it on during dyno) so was inconsistent.