View Poll Results: Progressive vs two stage, which is easier on parts
progressive controller 250- shot
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48
45.71%
two stages, 100 shot, 150 second stage
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32
30.48%
two stage, 125 first, 125 second
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25
23.81%
Voters: 105. You may not vote on this poll
progressive vs two stage
#21
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well i have just been tuning in my shot and have 73/38 pills in . on dyno tunes site thats a 240 shot. my a/f is in the 12.3-12.7s and its a single stage. i though a 73 nos jet was a 200 shot, can anyone help on this one. im heading to the dyno the 22nd this month so i will know for sure
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Originally Posted by cjg454ss
well i have just been tuning in my shot and have 73/38 pills in . on dyno tunes site thats a 240 shot. my a/f is in the 12.3-12.7s and its a single stage. i though a 73 nos jet was a 200 shot, can anyone help on this one. im heading to the dyno the 22nd this month so i will know for sure
looks like dbl coverage, but take it FWIW.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...21#post6180421
#28
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Originally Posted by koolrayz
So do I big deal I have the maximizer.
Thats one person that voted for progressive that actualy has one. Out of how many that voted? I personaly dont care for my single stage maximizer. I bought it and wasnt even done installing it when they released the maximizer 2. maybe if Dave had given me a heads up that the new one was on the way i would have the new model. Maybe the upgrades of the maximizer2 would allow the unit to perfom at an exceptable level. At this point I am going to remove the maximizer this winter and am looking at the dynotune 2 stage window switch. Just my opinion
Thats one person that voted for progressive that actualy has one. Out of how many that voted? I personaly dont care for my single stage maximizer. I bought it and wasnt even done installing it when they released the maximizer 2. maybe if Dave had given me a heads up that the new one was on the way i would have the new model. Maybe the upgrades of the maximizer2 would allow the unit to perfom at an exceptable level. At this point I am going to remove the maximizer this winter and am looking at the dynotune 2 stage window switch. Just my opinion
On another note. If I would have known that they were comming out with a new verson I promise I would have told you at the time you purchased it. I am not ware of everything that happens. Most of the time manafactures do not tell you about a new product until they are out of stock on the old one. They do this knowing everyone will want the newest design and they will be stuck with the old ones. I try to know all. But there is more to know than I can know.lol
Dave
#29
TECH Senior Member
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Hey Dave, what's your opinion on the noids these days holding up to a season of racing? I don't mean the cusual user, but those of us that might do over 150 passes a season. Progressing has been around for some time, but any who has used this method would soon realize that a noid could fail at anytime, concerning the serious racers. It's just been lately that all the companys began offering progressive. I am not so sure this will not still an issue, and reserve my final judgement for a couple more seasons. Most claim that the newer materials used in noids will hold up better, and the noids are more oriantated towards being pulsed (frequency)?
Robert
Robert
#30
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Robert,
With the new technology we have now days I like the progressive units. We just pulled the dual stage off Tonys car this season and went to a progressive on it.I think on a street car a dual stage is great for street racing. Mostly because if you can decide if you want the second system to come on or not. Makes it easy for hustling your competition.
The progressive units are nice in the fact that you have more adjustability. I see a Bigger benifit with the progressive unit for someone who runs at the track or uses the ability to tune the car to its full potential on the street.
With the progressive unit. We can go to a track and make changes in a split second versus jet changes.
To give you an idea.. Lets say you have a 400 hp tune up in the car. Its late in the day and the track is going to crap. We can adjust back the size shot all together buy not going full ramp as well as gradually bringing it in.
Al Jones made some nice post a few months back showing how the RPM ramp works on the new FJO line. I see that being a great bennifit for the street user.
The new solenoids use a better material on the plunger (piston). The old ones were bad about blowing the material off the end and hanging the solenoids. The coils are taking the abuse as well. I do not care for using little cute solenoids. In my opinion anything under a 093 orfice is only good for a purge solenoid.lol
I deal with alot of big HP cars that have transfered from the mulitple stages to the progressive units. I also have customers that would punch you in the mouth if you suggested a progressive unit.lol So Every one has there own preference. Some are set in there ways of using what they know. Some are constantly searching for new products to help them get faster and seperate them from the compitition.
To sum it up.
I have customers that have been running progressives for a few years now and are at the track every weekend. I am comfortable using a good progressive with a good solenoid. Todays technology is leaps above yesterdays.
Dave
With the new technology we have now days I like the progressive units. We just pulled the dual stage off Tonys car this season and went to a progressive on it.I think on a street car a dual stage is great for street racing. Mostly because if you can decide if you want the second system to come on or not. Makes it easy for hustling your competition.
The progressive units are nice in the fact that you have more adjustability. I see a Bigger benifit with the progressive unit for someone who runs at the track or uses the ability to tune the car to its full potential on the street.
With the progressive unit. We can go to a track and make changes in a split second versus jet changes.
To give you an idea.. Lets say you have a 400 hp tune up in the car. Its late in the day and the track is going to crap. We can adjust back the size shot all together buy not going full ramp as well as gradually bringing it in.
Al Jones made some nice post a few months back showing how the RPM ramp works on the new FJO line. I see that being a great bennifit for the street user.
The new solenoids use a better material on the plunger (piston). The old ones were bad about blowing the material off the end and hanging the solenoids. The coils are taking the abuse as well. I do not care for using little cute solenoids. In my opinion anything under a 093 orfice is only good for a purge solenoid.lol
I deal with alot of big HP cars that have transfered from the mulitple stages to the progressive units. I also have customers that would punch you in the mouth if you suggested a progressive unit.lol So Every one has there own preference. Some are set in there ways of using what they know. Some are constantly searching for new products to help them get faster and seperate them from the compitition.
To sum it up.
I have customers that have been running progressives for a few years now and are at the track every weekend. I am comfortable using a good progressive with a good solenoid. Todays technology is leaps above yesterdays.
Dave
#32
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Dave I appreciate your position and explaination on switching to a new product. I see that the vendors calaborate to protect themselves. I wonder if you really see the position of the customer that bought that last one off of the shelf. It's pretty much bent over a rail with a sore butt.
I'll take a shot at explaining what I see as one the design flaws in the progressive controllers. first of all there is no offset available to allow the fuel noid to open first. No matter how close the fuel is to the jets on a direct port the fuel takes longer to fill the rails and lines than the nitrous. Yes I know you can move the nitrous noid away from the rail to even it out on the initial hit, but then when the run is over you have all that nitrous in the rails and the extra lines to boils off. Your just trading the lean spike to the end from the begining. The other issue is because of the large difference in the pressure between the fuel and the nitrous they flow at different levels while pulsing. For instance pulsing the noids at say 25% the nitrous would be actually allowing say 35% of the shot to pass but the would only allow a lesser amount of the fuel shot to pass. Its alot like the butterfly valve on the throttle body. as it first opens the percentage of the airflow that passes is greater than the percent of degree's the blade is open. There IS a way to combat this issue. If you run the fuel noid as one of the stages and the nitrous noid as the other stage, make it come on before the nitrous and ramp it up quicker than the nitrous, It in effect changes your 2 stage controller into a single stage but it does work. That doesnt help me much as I only have a single stage maximizer
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I'll take a shot at explaining what I see as one the design flaws in the progressive controllers. first of all there is no offset available to allow the fuel noid to open first. No matter how close the fuel is to the jets on a direct port the fuel takes longer to fill the rails and lines than the nitrous. Yes I know you can move the nitrous noid away from the rail to even it out on the initial hit, but then when the run is over you have all that nitrous in the rails and the extra lines to boils off. Your just trading the lean spike to the end from the begining. The other issue is because of the large difference in the pressure between the fuel and the nitrous they flow at different levels while pulsing. For instance pulsing the noids at say 25% the nitrous would be actually allowing say 35% of the shot to pass but the would only allow a lesser amount of the fuel shot to pass. Its alot like the butterfly valve on the throttle body. as it first opens the percentage of the airflow that passes is greater than the percent of degree's the blade is open. There IS a way to combat this issue. If you run the fuel noid as one of the stages and the nitrous noid as the other stage, make it come on before the nitrous and ramp it up quicker than the nitrous, It in effect changes your 2 stage controller into a single stage but it does work. That doesnt help me much as I only have a single stage maximizer
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#34
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Does the ramp or the shot make a difference. Because most who debate this run a bigger shot I only run a 100 shot. I have a msd window but plan on running my FJO as soon as it warms up. If you ramp it from say 2k-3k does that still put the same load on the noids as if you ramped it the entire powerband?
#35
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Originally Posted by goatnipples2002
Does the ramp or the shot make a difference. Because most who debate this run a bigger shot I only run a 100 shot. I have a msd window but plan on running my FJO as soon as it warms up. If you ramp it from say 2k-3k does that still put the same load on the noids as if you ramped it the entire powerband?
The wear on the noids is determined by the number of times the noid opens and closes. The progressive system pulses the noid open and closed just like the injectors on your intake. So if you ramp the nitrous from 0% to 100% over 1000 rpm the noids will only pulse for a very short time and just to say a number we can use 100 pulses for that say one second it takes to go from 3000 rpm at 0% to 4000rpm at 100%. Now if you started at 3000rpm at 0% and ramped it to 6000rpm at 100% the noid were pulsing for say 5 second and maybe 500 pulses. Another factor is when its pulsing the noids for say 25% of the nitrous it will be opening and closing more times per second than if it is pulsing the noids for 75% of the shot. More pulses (=more wear) restricts the flow lowering the amout of nitrous to pass.
I couldnt help but notice you using the example of ramping from 2k-3k rpm please do not spray youre system below 3000 rpm, it may cause to much cylinder pressure for your setup. good luck with your new setup
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#36
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Thanks for the help. The 2k-3k was just an example. I have been spraying for a while. I have my window switch set at 3k, but I was only considering the FJO because it has the ability to help the load on my engine from the initial hit and it is rpm based. I am worried about the strain on my NX noids so I will have them sent in when I get a chance because my setup has used by 3 friends before me. No problem about the other thread.
#38
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when your talking about a 100 shot , it dont matter , but im at 300 and going to 350 .
To many variables on the street to try and run a time or RPM based controler imo .
If your running 50 mph down the highway and and feel like smoking the mustang next to you , you can spray 100% of the nitrous on the hit instead of ramping , but if the controller is set to ramp you may not get the jump like you would have .
I can stab a 150 shot from a 50 roll with drag radials on the car and if i have traction i can stab the other kit a second later , but , if i lose traction on the 150 , i sure as hell dont want it ramping up from there .
And on the other hand , if i do a dig race im at the mercy of the traction gods
and i dont spray out of the hole and wait till the car shifts into 2nd , unless im at my favorite spot where i can roll into the wot switch and spray a 150 1/4 of the way into 1st gear .
In either instance , i personaly cant have a progressive controller on the car (old dog , new tricks syndrone).
But , its all in what your into ,, if you play with a progressive that has multiple programs setup in it for a roll as well as a dig for a year , you will probley get good with it .
To many variables on the street to try and run a time or RPM based controler imo .
If your running 50 mph down the highway and and feel like smoking the mustang next to you , you can spray 100% of the nitrous on the hit instead of ramping , but if the controller is set to ramp you may not get the jump like you would have .
I can stab a 150 shot from a 50 roll with drag radials on the car and if i have traction i can stab the other kit a second later , but , if i lose traction on the 150 , i sure as hell dont want it ramping up from there .
And on the other hand , if i do a dig race im at the mercy of the traction gods
and i dont spray out of the hole and wait till the car shifts into 2nd , unless im at my favorite spot where i can roll into the wot switch and spray a 150 1/4 of the way into 1st gear .
In either instance , i personaly cant have a progressive controller on the car (old dog , new tricks syndrone).
But , its all in what your into ,, if you play with a progressive that has multiple programs setup in it for a roll as well as a dig for a year , you will probley get good with it .
#39
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I disagree with Dave on this one. I know, i know it's like dis-agreeing with my mentor and favorite College Professor:
Street and looking for traction with a big shot = progressive
Racing looking for big hp and speed with the hook down = multi stage
Street and looking for traction with a big shot = progressive
Racing looking for big hp and speed with the hook down = multi stage
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#40
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Originally Posted by 98redorangeta
cjg454ss a lot of nitrous companys have lifetime warrenties on there niods. Some consider rebuilding the noid to prevent problems later as part of that warrenty. If you choose to go progressive talk to the company you are buying the kit from and make sure that they will do this for you and that you can do it every season. I have a feeling that if oyu talk to some of the sponsers here they will hook you up. As for my opinion on progressive or staged i say both ![Devil](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_devil.gif)
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Robert