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Nitrous not working....

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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 09:45 PM
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Default Nitrous not working....

Basically, the kit fires fine when i activate it while the car is sitting, purge works, etc. Everything works fine. The solenoids are clicking, etc. But when i go and actually drive it, it doesnt work.

The car just bogs HARD and then backfires once real loud at WOT with the kit activated. I let off obviously after that. its almost like the nitrous solenoid isnt working, and the fuel solenoid is just dumping fuel, causing it to bog and then backfire.

I just had 100 shot jets in it to try it out, and i have double checked that the jet sizes are correct.


Its a TNT F2 kit with an NX purge and an NOS fuel solenoid, btw. has a WOT switch and an MSD window switch (3000 and 7200)

So, ideas? a few people have suggested my MSD window switch might be messed up.....
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 10:45 PM
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sounds like your n2o noid is bad
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 11:21 PM
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see, the solenoid is activating, i can hear it and feel it click when i test it outside the car......
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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 10:25 AM
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i know one of you nitrous gurus has an idea of what it might be
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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 10:41 AM
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Maybe your solenoids are rated differently. Definetley sounds like too much fuel.
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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 02:16 PM
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My fuel solenoid is an NOS piece, my purge an NX, and my fuel a TNT. Anyone know their ratings?
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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 03:39 PM
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well depends on which noids you have but it sounds like fuel no nitrous.. you sure both are clicking open? have u tested them? take lines off nozzles and fire outside the car to see that both are activating
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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 04:04 PM
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take the window switch out of the loop by putting a jumper wire between Red and Yellow wires. (assuming Red is your +12v source and Yellow is your system "activate" wire). I'll bet your window switch is either not wired correctly or not working. Tach wire correct? On/off RPM?
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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 04:46 PM
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We had a customer come to our shop with the same problem, had solenoids reversed meaning fuel plumbed to nitrous sol and vice versa. At 900 psi, the fuel solenoid was physically locked closed. Of course they both worked when testing with no pressure.
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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by dynocar
We had a customer come to our shop with the same problem, had solenoids reversed meaning fuel plumbed to nitrous sol and vice versa. At 900 psi, the fuel solenoid was physically locked closed. Of course they both worked when testing with no pressure.
haha i wish that was my problem, but my solenoids are in correctly.
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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 09:30 PM
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I've had this same problem. Good chance your nitrous solenoid wont open under pressure. I've had this happen a few times, the larger solenoids are more susceptable to this, I've had .125 orifice solenoids not open above say 1100psi several times, but my small solenoid on my dry kit will open all the time at 1200-1300 psi.
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by nate-roth
I've had this same problem. Good chance your nitrous solenoid wont open under pressure. I've had this happen a few times, the larger solenoids are more susceptable to this, I've had .125 orifice solenoids not open above say 1100psi several times, but my small solenoid on my dry kit will open all the time at 1200-1300 psi.
the last time i tried it and it didnt work, the bottle pressure was only at like 900.....


Im gonna try the window switch bypass tomorrow.
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