OK, so I got a elec nitrous press gauge. I have a bottle heater (860) that already has a bottle heater pressure switch spliced in thats wired to the relay for that heater. Anyone else have a set up like this, did you just splice in another adapter for the nitrous pressure. I was also thinking about splicing in infront of the purge selenoid using another fitting like the one that goes to the pure selenoid and has a 1/8 port for the purge line to come out but they may look a little tacky. Is there one like that, that has two ports on it so I could have one for the purge line and one for the press sensor?

 

Yes. NX 15513 for -4AN and NX 15523 for -6AN. I think I have a spare one.

 

what color is it. Want to sale it?

 

I was going to use the line going into the N2O noid, with a 4an manifold that has the 2 1/8" npt ports (i'd use one for the purge, and one for the gauge sender).

I had wanted to put the sender in the back, but the wire is only 6' long, so I'll have to hook it up in the engine bay.

 

"I was going to use the line going into the N2O noid, with a 4an manifold that has the 2 1/8" npt ports (i'd use one for the purge, and one for the gaugesender)."

exactly...

 

I put my Remote pressure gauge on the Mainline, this way with I can swap the bottle with my spare and not have to mess with taking it off the bottle (each bottle has its own heater switch).

Heater switch is on the bottle so whether the bottle is open or closed the sensor will correctly heat the bottle.



Dynotune Guage adapter, w/ 860 Performance Wingnut, on the mainline w/ the DynoTune Remote Pressure gauge

 

thanks for the pics. I need to do a different set up though. My pressure switch is already on the main line. I wish they made a adapter that has two fittings on it.

 

The DynoTune one pictured on the mainline does have two 1/8" NPT ports on it.

If your planning on putting the heater switch on the mainline ensure the bottle is open when the heater is on, else it with the bottle closed it will not see the pressure change and you risk cooking it to long and blowing the rutpture disc (that is why my heater switch is on the bottle).

 

OH...I only see the one being used for the press gauge, you have the other blocked off or what? Hmmm, maybe I think I may run my switch on the bottle. Can you send me some more pics of your set up, I'd really aprrecaite it. You can either post em here or just email them to me, svt_racing@sbcglobal.net

thanks

 

If you move your heater switch BE SURE the bottle is open when your using the heater, else the sensor will not see the pressure increase and your bottle could overheat and either blow the rupture disc, or worse blow up the bottle.

I did the heater sensor on the bottle (each of my bottles has its own sensor), the remote guage on the mainline. this way I could tell if the bottle was open or closed, as well as if the line was purged and it was safe to disconnect the mainline.

NX Bottle w/ no opener (Track Bottle) with the Dynotune Swivel Guage port





heater switch above, with the plugged 1/8"NPT port on the Dynotune Swivel gauge adapter.


DynoTune Bottle with opener (Street Bottle) Before the Swivel Guage port


The Dynotune Bottle did not have as many ports as the NX bottle, I used a NOS manifold (Black fitting) to put the heater and pressure gauge on (I think the manifold was a 3 port 1/8" NPT manifold.

With that wingnut in the top three pics on the Dynotune (NX, 860 Performance have em) no tools required to swap the mainline. Like this setup way better than the older DynoTune Gauge port pictured on the bottom.